No Power When Cold

[Meldrew]

My D4d 2003 is stuggling to start on cold mornings, and when driving away for the first 2 mile or so

there is a dramatic lack of power, as though the turbo is not working, then suddenly the power comes in

and it is fine all day.

Could the poor starting be due to heater plugs shot , although they only come on for a few seconds

prior to starting.

Any suggestions would be welcome.

[anchorman]

Nothing to do with the heater plugs - they might cause it to be difficult to start but not poor running afterwards.

It is either drawing air into the fuel or the SCV valves are sticking. Its not impossible for the turbo to have a sticking auxiliary device but just start at the beginning.........

After it is stood overnight try pumping the little black plunger on top of the fuel filter until it goes hard to operate. Then try starting it and see if it makes any difference.

[Meldrew]

Nothing to do with the heater plugs - they might cause it to be difficult to start but not poor running afterwards.

It is either drawing air into the fuel or the SCV valves are sticking. Its not impossible for the turbo to have a sticking auxiliary device but just start at the beginning.........

After it is stood overnight try pumping the little black plunger on top of the fuel filter until it goes hard to operate. Then try starting it and see if it makes any difference.

It was minus 1 this morning, had to crank engine over for a very long time until it gradually started to fire. On a warmer morning it starts very quickly, can I change the heater plugs fairly easily, and is their a simple way to check them?

I will try your suggestion of pumping black button on filter housing in the morning.

Thanks.

[anchorman]

Nothing to do with the heater plugs - they might cause it to be difficult to start but not poor running afterwards.

It is either drawing air into the fuel or the SCV valves are sticking. Its not impossible for the turbo to have a sticking auxiliary device but just start at the beginning.........

After it is stood overnight try pumping the little black plunger on top of the fuel filter until it goes hard to operate. Then try starting it and see if it makes any difference.

It was minus 1 this morning, had to crank engine over for a very long time until it gradually started to fire. On a warmer morning it starts very quickly, can I change the heater plugs fairly easily, and is their a simple way to check them?

I will try your suggestion of pumping black button on filter housing in the morning.

Thanks.

[Meldrew]

Have replaced failed heater plugs, engine now starts fine, also pumped button on top of fuel filter, but still have loss of power some mornings for first mile or so.

Power suddenly comes in and all is well for the rest of the day, should I replace the SCV valves, how can I be sure they are the culprit?

Thanks for inf and advice.

[chatman]

Have replaced failed heater plugs, engine now starts fine, also pumped button on top of fuel filter, but still have loss of power some mornings for first mile or so.

Power suddenly comes in and all is well for the rest of the day, should I replace the SCV valves, how can I be sure they are the culprit?

Thanks for inf and advice.

Just one other thing...Have you checked the MAF sensor on top of the air box...these can sometimes cause issues.... :g:

[Meldrew]

Have replaced failed heater plugs, engine now starts fine, also pumped button on top of fuel filter, but still have loss of power some mornings for first mile or so.

Power suddenly comes in and all is well for the rest of the day, should I replace the SCV valves, how can I be sure they are the culprit?

Thanks for inf and advice.

Just one other thing...Have you checked the MAF sensor on top of the air box...these can sometimes cause issues.... :g:

No MAF sensor not checked, is this something I can do or is it a Mr. T job?

[igormus]

My D4d 2003 is stuggling to start on cold mornings, and when driving away for the first 2 mile or so

there is a dramatic lack of power, as though the turbo is not working, then suddenly the power comes in

and it is fine all day.

Could the poor starting be due to heater plugs shot , although they only come on for a few seconds

prior to starting.

Any suggestions would be welcome.

hello

I agree with anchorman.

besides -- yr first miles heat the engine up and in case you have poor injection when the engine is cold (especially at minus 1 C) then you exactly feel lack of power. in other words the diesel is not burnt fully and you feel detone or even vibration at 1500-2000 rpm. once each cylinder is heated up then this helps to achieve the compression temperature that burns the diesel per cycle.

cheers/Igor

[Meldrew]

No power when cold is now no power when hot as well. :o

Car just drives like the turbo is not working all the time now, no power, but runs and ticks over ok. :(

how is MAF sensor checked, and if this is ok would scv valves be the next area to check?

OR should I bite the bullet and take it into Mr. T

[igormus]

No power when cold is now no power when hot as well. :o

Car just drives like the turbo is not working all the time now, no power, but runs and ticks over ok. :(

how is MAF sensor checked, and if this is ok would scv valves be the next area to check?

OR should I bite the bullet and take it into Mr. T

[igormus]

No power when cold is now no power when hot as well. :o

Car just drives like the turbo is not working all the time now, no power, but runs and ticks over ok. :(

how is MAF sensor checked, and if this is ok would scv valves be the next area to check?

OR should I bite the bullet and take it into Mr. T

hello

the problem is definitely with el.signal from ECU.

cheers

[Meldrew]

No power when cold is now no power when hot as well. :o

Car just drives like the turbo is not working all the time now, no power, but runs and ticks over ok. :(

how is MAF sensor checked, and if this is ok would scv valves be the next area to check?

OR should I bite the bullet and take it into Mr. T

hello

the problem is definitely with el.signal from ECU.

cheers

Hi,

What is the best approach to curing this problem?

Regards

[anchorman]

The MAF airflow test is easy. It is just a continuity and resistance check. There are also posts showing how to clean the MAF as they get covered in carbon which stops them operating properly. It is just a hot wire that sits in the inlet manifold and measures the current under different rates of flow to determin what the engine load is in relation to throttle position.

If you pm me with your email address i will send you some info.

Igormus

I will post your Avensis engine photos when I get chance.