Diy: Dummies Guide To Changing Aygo Front Brakes

[toyboata]

Just a quick thank you for this topic - It helped me change my discs & pads today at a fantastic saving off dealer prices.

Anyone thinking of attempting this - it is very easy todo once you get your head round it - and make sure you have 2 M8 sized Hex bolts to hand for getting the old disc off - SO much easier than trying to hammer it off using a rubber mallet.

Anyway, Thanks again to the OP and everyone who contributed to this topic.

Matt

[rajivrattna]

While I was trying to prepare myself mentally on changing the brake disc and pads on our Aygo, I looked at this video and noticed immediately that hey it is similar to the one in our Aygo, even though this particular video is for Peugeot 207. They use the similar Bosch Disc and Jurid pads. The retaining bolt and the caliper look the same. There are two retaining bolts here though. Perhaps, it is Peugeot that has designed the brake assembly in Aygo-C1-Peugeot 107 cars! The brake pad used here is Bosch Jurid J976.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLFZjGc4hyI&playnext=1&list=PLC2EFE3EBEE1A2EBE&feature=results_video

[Phil White]

This technician carried out the work in the proper way so this is a good video, just a shame it was speeded up missing out on some voice guidance too

[scorpio333uk]

Both comments very helpful. Our Aygo has done 30,000 miles on the original pads so is nearing replacement time.

[Winterwolf]

Thanks for the guide, very straight forward to follow ... And FYI I needed a T30 star it piece for my disc screw (2010 1L Black model). ... And the calipers were free enough I could push them back in with just my hands and a bit of sweating :)

Just spent a couple if hours changing discs and pads on the car, only picked it up last week.

Was planning on changing the discs anyway as one felt a bit grooved and braking was ****, but didn't think it would be this bad ... There was %$( all material left on the pads!

I checked its last MOT 10 from ten months ago, and it had a advisory on the brakes which she just ignored ... And assuming she was just counting on its yearly service to sort it.

Goes to show even with a car under warranty basic neglect can ubik anything up ... Scary considering she used it with her young child!

One query though ... The slide pins, the bottom one if I remember with the rubber sleeve on it, what purpose does it serve? on one calliper it was really tight, and it just couldn't free it up as much as I would have liked to, compared to the other calliper the rubber sleeve seemed a bit baggy and sat proud of the pin which I'm assuming is the problem.

Can you buy these sleeves separately or do you gave to buy the entire pin.

We got any good how to guides on doing the rear brakes anywhere?

Cheers

Fin

[rajivrattna]

What happened to the photos in this site? I can not seem to access them. Have they been hijacked by image shack?

[rajivrattna]

Never mind! found another site with photos and description.

https://www.verboom.net/projects/c1/20100716/index.html

[rajivrattna]

Thanks for the guide, very straight forward to follow ... And FYI I needed a T30 star it piece for my disc screw (2010 1L Black model). ... And the calipers were free enough I could push them back in with just my hands and a bit of sweating :)

Just spent a couple if hours changing discs and pads on the car, only picked it up last week.

Was planning on changing the discs anyway as one felt a bit grooved and braking was ****, but didn't think it would be this bad ... There was %$( all material left on the pads!

I checked its last MOT 10 from ten months ago, and it had a advisory on the brakes which she just ignored ... And assuming she was just counting on its yearly service to sort it.

Goes to show even with a car under warranty basic neglect can ubik anything up ... Scary considering she used it with her young child!

image.jpg

One query though ... The slide pins, the bottom one if I remember with the rubber sleeve on it, what purpose does it serve? on one calliper it was really tight, and it just couldn't free it up as much as I would have liked to, compared to the other calliper the rubber sleeve seemed a bit baggy and sat proud of the pin which I'm assuming is the problem.

Can you buy these sleeves separately or do you gave to buy the entire pin.

image.jpg

We got any good how to guides on doing the rear brakes anywhere?

Cheers

Fin

OK this is an old question but I will try to answer it and let us hope that I am right. These are called caliper pins and allow the calipers to glide when you press on the brake so that both the disc pads in the pair exert the same pressure on the disc. If the slide pins are stuck, then you have a situation where the inner pads will exert pressure (read wear out quicker) while the outer ones will do less of braking. Each time you change the disc and pads you need to lubricate these pins (with what? let some one else answer that) as well. By the way that "baggy rubber sleeve" protects the slide pin from getting dirty with dust, so that it does not get stuck again. Buy a new one and change it.

[rajivrattna]

The rear brakes in our cars resemble the rear brakes in the Smart city car. Here is the complete video guide to smart rear brakes.

[Winterwolf]

Cheers :)

[rajivrattna]

Just started the process of changing my disc and pads today. The discs are German, Zimmermann and the Pads are Mintex. I managed to get through only one side before the rains came and it got dark. The other side I plan to do tomorrow. My two cents on the procedure so far.

The most difficult part in the descending order of difficulty was,

(1) Removing the two big 17mm bolts; on the cradle. They had corroded and jammed against the chassis. Needed a lot of WD 40 and a big, long spanner with a lot of leverage. Hammering on the ordinary 17mm spanner produced no result. I was about to give up and then it finally moved. It must be the salt on Swedish winter roads that is the cause for all that corrosion.

(2) the small single T30 bolt that holds the disc in place. That bolt sat really tight. I managed to destroy two T30 drivers before it budged. Must buy good tools next time, that is the lesson here. Cheap stuff always buckles under a tough screw. Lot of WD 40 even here!

(3) getting the original disc off the hub. Lot of hammering before it gave way. Now the new one sits on that place with a smear of copper paste applied on the hub. It should be easy next time.

(4) inserting the new pads on the cradle (before the caliper is put on). Funny, because I never thought that would be so fiddly.

(5) Tightening up all the 4 bolts to correct torque. Luckily I had two torque spanners, one for the 90Nm and the other for the 30Nm.

(6) Removing some brake fluid from the reservoir after the left side brake change. The fluid had crossed way above the max limit after pressing back the caliper piston. Shows how late and over due my brake change really was. It was fiddly getting to the reservoir. I used a pipe attached to a syringe to aspirate the fluid. The reservoir is tiny so flooding can occur on pressing back the piston. Beware!

Tomorrow I am going to tackle the other side. Let us hope that I do not break anything in the process. It was more fiddly and time consuming than I thought. By the way the original pads were Jurid and that is good but the disc had no name on it and it was truly worn out and badly rusted. The disc edge just crumbled while removing. Can not be Toyota quality. The car is only 6 years old and has done only 50000km.

Just continuing, with the story, the day after. Managed to get the other side done today and it was much easier after the practice run yesterday. The brake fluid reservoir is miniscule in this car. I had to remove a few more ml of fluid again today while pressing in the piston in caliper on the right side. Took her for a practice run to test the brakes, working fine. Very pleased with the results and saved quite a lot. The Discs and pads costed 55 Euro total and that is for good quality stuff!