What To Look For When Buying A Yaris

[iceland_potter]

Hi all,

I'm looking for a Yaris 2000-2004 with around 50k miles on it, but I don’t know anything about Yaris’.

Is there anything you can tell me to look for if I go to see a few please? E.g. common rust points, leaks etc?

I've seen a 2003 one for £2650 on 52,000 miles privately, does that sound cheap/average/expensive?

Also I looked up a quick quote for a warranty with an online warranty firm, I don’t know if this would be needed on a Yaris or not, it came to £250 for a year…..any advice appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

[Madasafish]

[Go to honest John and read his Buyers Guide...

Stone chips.. front.

Rust: very little: check Engine mounts and under rear: suspension carriers and springs.

Suspension and brakes: Anti roll bar (tie bar ) rubbers. Discs rust. Exhaust rust.

Inside: upholstery tears and rattles.

Engine signs of oil leaks and missue.

You need evidence of regular servicing preferably toyota or stamped book.

No cambelt but toothed rubber belt can wear.

Recent MOT (so emissions OK)

Clutch OK, all controls work .. check everything.

Very reliable but tie bar rubbers give clonk if worn.. ABUSE is a BAD thing .. walk away.

Check tyre wear is even .. tracking easily disturbed by kerbing..

And no wobbles at 70mph (balance)

If it looks and sounds good and runs well OK..

But if not, lots more available..

I bought mine s'h and no problems..

[iceland_potter]

really appreciate it madasafish thanks.

>No cambelt but toothed rubber belt can wear.

What do you mean sorry? does that mean it's got a chain instead of a belt like my old Micra had? If so what is the toothed rubber belt and where can that be found please?

>Very reliable but tie bar rubbers give clonk if worn.. ABUSE is a BAD thing .. walk away.

What does that mean as well sorry? Could you point out tie bar rubbers and is that how you'd judge if its been abused?

thanks.

[Chris81]

The anti roll bar bushes (droplinks) will likely be split on every Yaris in the land. Get a new set on and they last a couple of months before splitting again, but unless there's excess play in the joint or they knock when going over bumps they're nothing to worry about.

That price for a 2003 car seems about right to me.

[nz_aj]

Yes it has a chain, like most other toyota engines made from around Y2K on.

The worst thing I've come across when shopping for Yaris is a sludged up motor (result of not changing the oil regularly). It was that bad that you'd drive along the road & after a couple of minutes the oil light would come on & the engine started rattling like a bucket of bolts. The oil wasn't draining down into the sump fast enough & starving the oil pickup. After sitting for some time with engine off, oil level would be fine on the dipstick.

I regret not buying this car, after getting stranded out on the road with a very embarassed used car salesman, I could have bought it real cheap.

[Vince W]

Make sure it says Yaris on the tailgate.

[Madasafish]

>No cambelt but toothed rubber belt can wear.

What do you mean sorry? does that mean it's got a chain instead of a belt like my old Micra had? If so what is the toothed rubber belt and where can that be found please?

Open bonnet.

Left hand side of engine as you look.

Chain driven but a rubber toothed belt drives alternator, water pump etc.. It is supposed to be inspected and changed every 40-60000 miles but often is not done. Also there may be another belt if aircon fitted...

The ARB rubbers?

Under front - look at lower suspension wishbones..

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GENUINE-TOYOTA-YARIS...A1%7C240%3A1318

[imperial1952]

Yes it has a chain, like most other toyota engines made from around Y2K on.

The worst thing I've come across when shopping for Yaris is a sludged up motor (result of not changing the oil regularly). It was that bad that you'd drive along the road & after a couple of minutes the oil light would come on & the engine started rattling like a bucket of bolts. The oil wasn't draining down into the sump fast enough & starving the oil pickup. After sitting for some time with engine off, oil level would be fine on the dipstick.

I regret not buying this car, after getting stranded out on the road with a very embarassed used car salesman, I could have bought it real cheap.

Hi

This is a bit off this topic but i have just bought (2 months ago) a Diesel D4D T-Spirit with 16.000 miles on the clock.

I'm very pleased with it but for the fact that it "Rattles like a bucket of Bolts" on start up when cold and going through the gears above 2,000 RPM. The rattling is not there under 1500RPM and disappears after about 30 seconds! Is this normal or should i be worried. Would changing the oil as you suggest above cure this problem or is this an early indication of future troubles

[gar]

Yes it has a chain, like most other toyota engines made from around Y2K on.

The worst thing I've come across when shopping for Yaris is a sludged up motor (result of not changing the oil regularly). It was that bad that you'd drive along the road & after a couple of minutes the oil light would come on & the engine started rattling like a bucket of bolts. The oil wasn't draining down into the sump fast enough & starving the oil pickup. After sitting for some time with engine off, oil level would be fine on the dipstick.

I regret not buying this car, after getting stranded out on the road with a very embarassed used car salesman, I could have bought it real cheap.

Hi

This is a bit off this topic but i have just bought (2 months ago) a Diesel D4D T-Spirit with 16.000 miles on the clock.

I'm very pleased with it but for the fact that it "Rattles like a bucket of Bolts" on start up when cold and going through the gears above 2,000 RPM. The rattling is not there under 1500RPM and disappears after about 30 seconds! Is this normal or should i be worried. Would changing the oil as you suggest above cure this problem or is this an early indication of future troubles

prob. normal.... it used to be said, if a car was noisey like it had an engine full of nails, hope it is a diesel or you've got problems!

[Madasafish]

Normal

(Mine is not too bad but depends on oil and a correct oil filter.

If it's not a Toyota filter with non return vavle, you MAY (may) be having oil drain when not running hence the noise.

[imperial1952]

Normal

(Mine is not too bad but depends on oil and a correct oil filter.

If it's not a Toyota filter with non return vavle, you MAY (may) be having oil drain when not running hence the noise.

Thanks guys you've allayed my fears somewhat

What oil (make, model & viscosity) do you use? and how often do you change it?

Do you use a proper flushing oil prior to filling with the new oil and changing the filter? (i dont mean the half pint cans of WYNNS etc you buy in Halfords, but proper flushing oil which you use 4 pints of and run the engine for 10/15 minutes before emptying it and filling with proper spec engine oil).

I use a COMMA produced "Flush Out" flushing oil on both my petrol cars. It seems to get rid of all the black gunge inside an engine as the colour of the newly added oil looks like new even after 2 to 3 months of use - an indication i think of how good a job it does in cleaning the engines internal oilways etc.

PS:- Incase your wondering;i'm not a COMMA salesperson nor do i work for them in any way shape or form!!!!!!!!!!

[Madasafish]

What oil (make, model & viscosity) do you use? and how often do you change it?

Service every 10k Toyota: they use their own oil see Handbook.

Semi synthetic to various quoted standards..

Do you use a proper flushing oil prior to filling with the new oil and changing the filter? (i dont mean the half pint cans of WYNNS etc you buy in Halfords, but proper flushing oil which you use 4 pints of and run the engine for 10/15 minutes before emptying it and filling with proper spec engine oil).

I use a COMMA produced "Flush Out" flushing oil on both my petrol cars. It seems to get rid of all the black gunge inside an engine as the colour of the newly added oil looks like new even after 2 to 3 months of use - an indication i think of how good a job it does in cleaning the engines internal oilways etc.

No never and I believe it is NOT recommended. You may very well damage the engine due to low lubricity.

After oil is changed it is clean fo about 1,000 miles and gradually goes black, This is STANDARD for every diesel I have ever owned .

I do do an interim 5,000 mile oil and filter change and did use Comma semi synthetic.. ..

Comma or Castrol websites give recommended grades of oil.