Idle Problem On 1.6vvti

[toon--soldier]

Hi i have being having a problem with the way my car idles lately, its fine when you start it up from cold it idles at around 1000rpm but once it gets warm it drops to about 700rpm and almost cuts out, i can also hear a bad rattle(camshaft or tappaets) from the the engine when it drops below 1000rpm like its low on oil but i have checked it and its fine for oil. I was thinking maybe its the lamba sensor, but theres only 68k on it just wondering has this ever happend to anyone else?cheers

[Beagh1958]

If you know of anybody with code reader (OBD Tool) who can obtain some error codes from your car I might be able to point in the right direction. Just to many sensors & modules that can cause this kind of fault, from ECM/ECU to idle control valves & simple air leaks in induction system. Don't guess & spend your money as guessing is a pricey business.

[Beagh1958]

Sorry have you got year, engine cc & engine code.

[toon--soldier]

Sorry have you got year, engine cc & engine code.

its a 1598cc gimme a sec and i will have the engine code

[toon--soldier]

Sorry have you got year, engine cc & engine code.

its a 2000 reg engine code is 3zz0501240

[Twincam.GTi]

OBD2/EOBD Tool might work if car is a 2001+ car - although I think all 2000 onwards AE111/EE111 'face lift' have OBD2/EOBD/2nd Gen Diagnosis ... ...but...

A faulty Lambda/Oxygen sensor does NOT always throw up a fault code with this Model - believe me I know from experiance. ;)

I do know that these cars have usually fried their Lambda sensor at approx 50,000 - 60,000 mile (the 'pre facelift' AE111/EE111 Corolla 'bug eye' 1997-2000 era had an old fashioned two wire Lambda/O2 sensor)

You say it drops to 700 rpm - does it try to 'raise' again, then 'drop' again, then 'raise' again etc. etc. ?

Personally from my experiance this is the route I would consider (and this is only from my experiance!)

1/ Check temperature sensor is correctly sat/pushed in to side of air box lid (if fitted) or air tubing

2/ New plugs and air filter - cost approx £15 pat. or £35 genuine.

3/ Oil and filter change - yep even dirty oil will cause peoblems with sensor readings nowadays - cost approx £22

4/ If car has a MAP sensor (and not MAF) mounted on bulkhead behind injection system check the narrow (approx 6mm wide) tube from it to the injection system has not become split or blocked (to check if blocked remove and make sure its clear -push a bit of wire through etc.), these can get blocked with oil residue

5/ - now this is a long shot (and don't hold your breath ) treat petrol tank when quarter full to complete bottle of Forte petrol treatment - http://www.forteuk.co.uk/Gas_treatment.htm - most motorfactors sell it; it does no harm - cost of bottle £8

6/ You need to change Lambda/oxygen sensor. Use genuine Toyota one the universal ones do not appear to be a success with Toyotas (again this is my opinion - I'm sure there's people who have had no probs ) unfortunately cost could be £90.

All above is suggested from my own experiance and I accept no responsibilty if any of above does not rectify your vehicle

:)

[toon--soldier]

OBD2/EOBD Tool might work if car is a 2001+ car - although I think all 2000 onwards AE111/EE111 'face lift' have OBD2/EOBD/2nd Gen Diagnosis ... ...but...

A faulty Lambda/Oxygen sensor does NOT always throw up a fault code with this Model - believe me I know form experiance. ;)

I do know that these cars have usually fried their Lambda sensor at approx 50,000 - 60,000 mile (the 'pre facelift' AE111/EE111 Corolla 'bug eye' 1997-2000 era had an old fashioned two wire Lambda/O2 sensor)

You say it drops to 700 rpm - does it try to 'raise' again, then 'drop' again, then 'raise' again etc. etc. ?

Personally from my experiance this is the route I would consider (and this is only from my experiance!)

1/ Check temperature sensor is correctly sat/pushed in to side of air box lid (if fitted) or air tubing

2/ New plugs and air filter - cost approx £15 pat. or £35 genuine.

3/ Oil and filter change - yep even dirty oil will cause peoblems with sensor readings nowadays - cost approx £22

4/ If car has a MAP sensor (and not MAF) mounted on bulkhead behind injection system check the narrow (approx 6mm wide tube from it to the injection system has not become split or blocked (to check if blocked remove and make sure its clear -push a bit of wire through etc.), these can get blocked with oil residue

5/ - now this is a long shot (and don't hold your breath ) treat petrol tank when quarter full to complete bottle of Forte petrol treatment - most motorfactors sell it; it does no harm - cost of bottle £8

6/ You need to change Lambda/oxygen sensor. Use genuine Toyota one the universal ones do not appear to be a success with Toyotas (again this is my opinion - I'm sure there's people who have had no probs ) unfortunately cost could be £90.

All above is suggested from my own experiance and I accept no responsibilty if any of above does not rectify your vehicle

:)

yeah it does that raise again and drop again thing because it gets so low its like the car is going to stall, have already tryed step 2 and 3, will try the rest in the morning cheers

[Twincam.GTi]

yeah it does that raise again and drop again thing because it gets so low its like the car is going to stall, have already tryed step 2 and 3, will try the rest in the morning cheers

I really am thinking the Lambda/Oxygen sensor is finished :(

[Twincam.GTi]

Beagh1958

... Just to many sensors & modules that can cause this kind of fault, from ECM/ECU to idle control valves & simple air leaks in induction system. Don't guess & spend your money as guessing is a pricey business.

Would just like to say 'Yes absolutely agree' Beagh1958 is correct in saying this. It's just in this instance with the AE111/EE111 Corolla if you get the idling syndrome of revs droping then tring to 'raise' again, then 'drop' again, then 'raise' again etc. etc. , nine times outta ten it's the Lambda/o2 sensor saying good bye.

[toon--soldier]

yeah it does that raise again and drop again thing because it gets so low its like the car is going to stall, have already tryed step 2 and 3, will try the rest in the morning cheers

I really am thinking the Lambda/Oxygen sensor is finished :(

Am i doing much damage by not changing it? if i was to check the co2 output would that be able to tell me if the snesor was faulty?

[Twincam.GTi]

Am i doing much damage by not changing it?

If it is faulty then you would fail and M.O.T.

If you've not long passed the M.O.T and thus drove say another 15,000 mile then you'ed well and truly mess up your 'Cat' as well (-which pattern part aren't that expensive now). As for doing another approx 5,000 mile then no harm.

if i was to check the co2 output would that be able to tell me if the snesor was faulty?

This would again only be 80% chance... ...it's faults like this that even 'wind up' helpful MOT'ers as there equipment does NOT always pinpoint fault apartfrom issuing a FAIL!

Oh ... just remembered ... forgot to ask ... has Fuel consumption been getting worse?

[toon--soldier]

Am i doing much damage by not changing it?

If it is faulty then you would fail and M.O.T.

If you've not long passed the M.O.T and thus drove say another 15,000 mile then you'ed well and truly mess up your 'Cat' as well (-which pattern part aren't that expensive now). As for doing another approx 5,000 mile then no harm.

if i was to check the co2 output would that be able to tell me if the snesor was faulty?

This would again only be80% chance.

Oh ... just remembered ... forgot to ask ... has Fuel consumption been getting worse?

yes it has actually, guess i'll just have to bite the bullet and get a new sensor thanks for the help

[Twincam.GTi]

^

It's definately pointing towards dying Lambda /O2 sensor

BUT PLEASE REMEMBER what I've stated is probs I experianced.

Good Luck

:)

[KPARRIS-JONES]

^

It's definately pointing towards dying Lambda /O2 sensor

BUT PLEASE REMEMBER what I've stated is probs I experianced.

Good Luck

:)

I have a similar problem. The engine keeps 'hunting' for revs.

When I start it up, it idles at 2500rpm and then drops to 1500 after 10 mins and then start searching for another 20mins until it settles at 1000 rpm.

I have been told that it may be my throttle body adjustment screw isn't in the right position.

Is this b.s. or do I need to tighten it a bit.

cheers,

KPARRIS-JONES

[corolla_dude]

^

It's definately pointing towards dying Lambda /O2 sensor

BUT PLEASE REMEMBER what I've stated is probs I experianced.

Good Luck

:)

I have a similar problem. The engine keeps 'hunting' for revs.

When I start it up, it idles at 2500rpm and then drops to 1500 after 10 mins and then start searching for another 20mins until it settles at 1000 rpm.

I have been told that it may be my throttle body adjustment screw isn't in the right position.

Is this b.s. or do I need to tighten it a bit.

cheers,

KPARRIS-JONES

had a mate with this problem on his golf, might not be the same but the problem was the throttle body gasket was leaking, which was causing it to rev high when started up

[KPARRIS-JONES]

^

It's definately pointing towards dying Lambda /O2 sensor

BUT PLEASE REMEMBER what I've stated is probs I experianced.

Good Luck

:)

I have a similar problem. The engine keeps 'hunting' for revs.

When I start it up, it idles at 2500rpm and then drops to 1500 after 10 mins and then start searching for another 20mins until it settles at 1000 rpm.

I have been told that it may be my throttle body adjustment screw isn't in the right position.

Is this b.s. or do I need to tighten it a bit.

cheers,

KPARRIS-JONES

had a mate with this problem on his golf, might not be the same but the problem was the throttle body gasket was leaking, which was causing it to rev high when started up

Thanks, was gettin' scared of HUGE engine explosion at some point!

Will adjust the screw first and if all fails I'll get a new gasket/ throttle body.

[Beagh1958]

With respect to other forum user i wouldn't go turning throttle body screws if fitted these are factory set & may lead to other problems. Which screw in particular ( potentiometer?). Other suggestion about golf is a bang on diagnosis, common fault remove throttle body give it a series clean with tin of carb/throttle body cleaner nearly allways cures problem instantly. Maybe a trip to T.Hogan for diagnostic check should clear matterup?.

[KPARRIS-JONES]

With respect to other forum user i wouldn't go turning throttle body screws if fitted these are factory set & may lead to other problems. Which screw in particular ( potentiometer?). Other suggestion about golf is a bang on diagnosis, common fault remove throttle body give it a series clean with tin of carb/throttle body cleaner nearly allways cures problem instantly. Maybe a trip to T.Hogan for diagnostic check should clear matterup?.

O.K.

thanks for the advice guys :)

[Beagh1958]

Suggestion to visit T.Hogan is for toon - - soldier. You know who i mean.

[Black Knight]

Idle speed is controlled by the ECU so winding screws in and out will do sweet FA since all that'll happen is the ECU will demand to close the idle speed controller more. You're more likely to do damage. Try cleaning the throat of the throttle body out first as suggested above.

Correct idle speed is 650rpm anyway so sounds like it's idling about right speed.

The hunting sounds more like a split/partially disconneced hose/gasket

[Twincam.GTi]

KPARRIS-JONES Posted Nov 25 2008, 08:38 PM

When I start it up, it idles at 2500rpm and then drops to 1500 after 10 mins and then start searching for another 20mins until it settles at 1000 rpm.

I have been told that it may be my throttle body adjustment screw isn't in the right position.

Is this b.s. or do I need to tighten it a bit.

cheers,

KPARRIS-JONES

As regards the Corolla AE92 GTi - it is perfectly normal on this 'older example' of Corolla TVIS system for the engine to 'fast idle' for approx 1800 - 2500 rpm when cold.

[KPARRIS-JONES]

KPARRIS-JONES Posted Nov 25 2008, 08:38 PM

When I start it up, it idles at 2500rpm and then drops to 1500 after 10 mins and then start searching for another 20mins until it settles at 1000 rpm.

I have been told that it may be my throttle body adjustment screw isn't in the right position.

Is this b.s. or do I need to tighten it a bit.

cheers,

KPARRIS-JONES

As regards the Corolla AE92 GTi - it is perfectly normal on this 'older example' of Corolla TVIS system for the engine to 'fast idle' for approx 1800 - 2500 rpm when cold.

That's alright then. :D

Thanks, I thought there was something serioudly wrong, and I'm guessing that I have now saved £200 because of your advice!