Engine Stopped

[Bill Martin]

Hi, I was driving along on the Edinburgh bypass and the engine just cut out suddenly then all the dashboard lights came on.

Tried to bump start nothing.

Towed it home removed the timing cover and it looks like its OK. Cam shaft is turning getting spark at plugs.

Fitted new plugs still nothing

Petrol Ok.

It sounds electrical but not one hundred percent sure.

Any help please.

Also IF it is the timing belt any one got a step by step guide to fitting please.

Also which cheap code reader do you all use.

Thank you for any help.

[Twincam.GTi]

Age of car?

Milage of car?

Model of car?

Has a 'Mil (Malfunction Indicator light) / ECU' light been on recently

Timing belt - although belt may not be broken can you see or remove most of cover and see (you'll need a torch) if any teeth may have 'striped off)

If it is a 80's Corolla or early 90's Corolla I originally thought it could be the 'Igniter' (rectangular unit mounted on the bulkhead) or the Coil has gone (sometimes mounted on the side of the distributor - thus no HT lead going into middle of distributor... so to speak. Performance models usually have them mounted 'old style' at other end of engine, with normal HT lead). But as you say IT HAS A SPARK AT PLUGS so it can't be them.

Does your model of Corolla (if it is pre 2001) have a diagnosis socket by passenger side suspension strut (under bonnet); its a little rectangular box (with lid) that even sometimes says Diagnosis on the lid. - if so you don't really need a code reader you can bridge terminals TE1 and E1 (Which terminal is which is on inside of lid of box) with jumper wire/paper clip and count Mil light flashs.

[Bill Martin]

Thank you for the reply.

Its a 1994

80 plus mileage

Corrola T1

I checked the timing with a strobe light and the timing is spot on.

So I think the belt is OK.

Did what you said about using the paper clip in TE1 and E1 and get the MIL light continually flashing

When I removed the clip it stays on but I presume that the engine has to start before this light goes out.

So going back to the original fault there was a drop in power before it stopped

Cant afford garage prices but I am willing to do all my own work

I can repair most older cars ( proper carbs and basic ignition systems ) but ones with electronic censors and gismoids on them I really toil