Overheating...

[TokeTillDeath420]

Ok, Before i started messing around with it, it would overheat to 3/4 when idle... and driving it would cool down. SO, i decided to change some things.

1. Changed thermostat

2. Changed Radiator Cap

3. Burped the Cooling System

4. Removed EGR System

5. Cleaned Throttle Body

The car heat works fine. Now my problem is worse!! I drive around the block and it doesnt stop at 3/4. It keeps going up! The hose from the Cap to the block is extremely warm... BUT the hose from the Water Pump Inlet to the radiator is still cold. I squeezed the hose at the inlet, and coolant comes out the refill, so i know fluids going through.(Engine off) Also, my radiator fans dont come on, i dont know, i checked the fuse, its still good. The hose next to the bleed valve on the radiator is also cool when the engine is hot. Only thing i can think of is the water pump not working? Thats not an easy check... so its not exactly DIY. But why would it get so much worse... kinda rules out the water pump, right? ANy info would be appreciated. Thanks!

[TokeTillDeath420]

OK, Update. The outlet from the engine is hot, the front line next to the radiator gets warm after a while, takes about 5 - 7 minutes. The fans dont kick on, but if i turn the AC on it works. I dont feel the radiator get hot though... or the outlet from the radiator to the thermostat. 2 Questions, could it be a bad radiator?? Thats why no fluid gets through to the engine?? Or is it a bad water pump not pushing fluid around?? Is there an easy way to tell if the pump is bad?? Also quick note on the Radiator, the drain plug leaks from the part you turn, so maybe the radiator is blocked and the pressure just builds up on the cap and leaks very slow. Im gonna try 2 things today, just remove the thermostat (DOnt think it will help) and drain the radiator to see how the fluid looks. Either way i need a new drain plug for the radiator... (If they sell it seperate) Well lotta stuff, just dont wanna pay toyota like 400$ to tell me something i can fix saving labor.

EDIT: Just went to remove the Rad, opened the bleed valve, 2 drops came out. So im assuming that the radiator is clogged. Ill find out tomorrow when i take it to a shop. FYI, 3 out of 6 bolts heads broke for the fans!! So if you plan on using the same Rad, make sure you have a tap and die set. I hope its the rad and not the water pump!

[gazza1286]

For a start the refilling of the cooling system is more than just 'burping' a hose. It takes at least an hour to do properly'

See:

http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanical/vol...ling_system.htm

page CO-5 onwards. If you don't have the service hoses, a length of 8mm (internal Diameter) hose can be bought from B&Q for pennies.

Your problem is all related to a sticking stat. The radiator won't drain unless the vacuum in the system is broken by removing the metal cap.

[TokeTillDeath420]

Well, the radiator had only 2 lines blocked, said it wouldnt have made a difference. So the question is now, do i HAVE to empty all the coolant??? Ive read you can just fill and run for 3 minutes, fill and run for 3 mnutes (AFTER you have checked for no air in the system with the bleed hoses)... isnt that the same thing as draining and refilling??? I think im gonna rip the TStat out when im doing the rad to try and elimnate that... Last option... Blown Head Gasket?? Signs are white smoke from exhaust and mayo residue under oil filler cap, right?? I dont have that... So im hopin for the best!