Avensis 99 Rear Brakes Adjustment

[Rvall]

Hi,

I have an Avensis 2.0 from 1999.

I'm having problems with one of my rear brakes (left side). It is too tight so; either the pads are always in contact with the disc or the handbrake is always in contact.

So, after reading a lot of posts here and elsewhere on the net, I'm a bit confused.

There's supposed to be an adjustment hole in the drum. So far it's ok.

But some says the screw inside only turns one way; adjusting it closer hence compensation for worn down pads.

One who did turn it too far, spent 5 hours trying to get it back one or two notches, others had to take it to the shop and pay £100 for them to fix it.

...other says that to remove the drum, you should turn the screw so the pads comes away from the drum. This means they can be adjusted in both directions.

Must say that all read topics did NOT concern Avensis, but why different functions on different models.. it's all Toyotas?

So, I need to get them just a tiny bit of the drum so it doesn't squek or get hot when driving.

Is it possible to do this with this screw behind the hole in the drum, or not?

Thanks for your help.

[Q.S.]

Hi,

I have an Avensis 2.0 from 1999.

I'm having problems with one of my rear brakes (left side). It is too tight so; either the pads are always in contact with the disc or the handbrake is always in contact.

So, after reading a lot of posts here and elsewhere on the net, I'm a bit confused.

There's supposed to be an adjustment hole in the drum. So far it's ok.

But some says the screw inside only turns one way; adjusting it closer hence compensation for worn down pads.

One who did turn it too far, spent 5 hours trying to get it back one or two notches, others had to take it to the shop and pay £100 for them to fix it.

...other says that to remove the drum, you should turn the screw so the pads comes away from the drum. This means they can be adjusted in both directions.

Must say that all read topics did NOT concern Avensis, but why different functions on different models.. it's all Toyotas?

So, I need to get them just a tiny bit of the drum so it doesn't squek or get hot when driving.

Is it possible to do this with this screw behind the hole in the drum, or not?

Thanks for your help.

The question I would be asking myself is, Why are they too tight? Have you adjusted them too tight yourself? If it is something that has occured by itself, then something has gone amiss. Sticking handbrake cable for example. Adjusting them off will not get to the root cause of your problem.

Somewhere on the forum is an instructional thread for (I think) changing the rear discs which has some nice photos of the adjuster and brake shoes, complete with instructions.

I am assuming that you have discs at the rear with the handbrake inside a 'drum in disc' set-up.

If you have drums only at the rear, everything still applies apart from the instructional.

[Rvall]

Thanks,

of course I need to go to the root of the problem ;-)

But first, I need to fix the symptoms, then the actual fault (if there is any).

And I have found at least 4 different threads regarding changing rear brakes. But none of them tells me if I can adjust the brakes to loosen up a bit.

They all refer to rotating the wheel and adjusting until it just gets in touch. Not what happens if they got too tight.

And this problem has been now and then since I bought it for 5 years ago. I never had any problems with this, it's a bit tight during a few days and then it's ok for a month or three... It's just a wining sound when driving very slowly...

Problem is that the 'Bilprovning' in Sweden, where you check your car every year, made remarks on this and I now have to make it go away within the next 3 weeks.

So as a starter, I want to make it ok for now and when it's not 4 dm snow outside, I'll fix it properly.

And yes, I have a disc and a drum in rear. So this means that only the handbrake is the problem? It usually goes away for a day when pulling the handbrake hard.

Please someone, could you tell me if this adjusting is possible in both ways?

[Q.S.]

Thanks,

of course I need to go to the root of the problem ;-)

But first, I need to fix the symptoms, then the actual fault (if there is any).

And I have found at least 4 different threads regarding changing rear brakes. But none of them tells me if I can adjust the brakes to loosen up a bit.

They all refer to rotating the wheel and adjusting until it just gets in touch. Not what happens if they got too tight.

And this problem has been now and then since I bought it for 5 years ago. I never had any problems with this, it's a bit tight during a few days and then it's ok for a month or three... It's just a wining sound when driving very slowly...

Problem is that the 'Bilprovning' in Sweden, where you check your car every year, made remarks on this and I now have to make it go away within the next 3 weeks.

So as a starter, I want to make it ok for now and when it's not 4 dm snow outside, I'll fix it properly.

And yes, I have a disc and a drum in rear. So this means that only the handbrake is the problem? It usually goes away for a day when pulling the handbrake hard.

Please someone, could you tell me if this adjusting is possible in both ways?

Take a look here.

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.p...;hl=rear+brakes

If it's the same setup as this, then yes it does go both ways. Notice the adjuster is tight up against the spring coils. This acts as a locking mechanism for the adjuster to stop it moving by accident.

[Beagh1958]

To Rvall,

If you have 99 model Mark1 Avensis, unless Swedish market has disc & pad setup?. You should have drum & shoe setup, you need to slacken handbrake cable right off before attempting to remove rear drums. You may have faulty handbrake cable that has seen better days. Once drums have been removed a little bit of copper-slip on all moving parts particulary rear shoe on either side that accepts cable onto operating arm should hopefully cure your problem.

Regards, Beagh.

[Rvall]

Thanks for the tips Beagh.

And I stand corrected. I have drums in rear, no discs. I helped a friend of mine changing tyres before xmas and he had an imported Avensis and that had discs in rear, as it is on the threads in this forum.

So, I will have a look at this today. I've bought pads for my front breaks and I think I'll start with them. Seems as this would take longer time...

[Rvall]

Ok,

first part done...

Breakpads in front have been changed and it was soooo easy, apart from one tiny little bit no-one has mentioned anywhere...

The two bolts where insex size 7mm!!

There were rubber protections around their heads so it was very hard to see what kind of tool you'd need. And since everyone has said it's an 12 och maybe 14 wrench I was trying that then I took a picture of it with my camera (since you can't getyour head inside to get a clear view) and found out that it was a square hole instead... ok ... to make it a short story...

Has anyone tried to find an insex size 7mm? In the 8:th store I finally found one (1) set that had size 7...

Then after that 2 hours shopping, it took maximum 40 minutes to change both sides.

Now trying to fix rear too... I'll be back.

[Rvall]

And final part done too...

...I hope, havent had it for a drive yet after this last adjustment.

As said before, I had only drum´s in rear. And not alike anything else I have seen in threads or other places.

I didn't take it all apart but sprayed a lot of cleaners and blowed with air. Pulled the handbreak until my arm couldn't take it anymore, then sprayed more cleaners on everything that moved, pulled some more.

Then I discovered an adjustment ring, hidden behind a piece of bent metal. The autoadjuster (I guess), so I turned the ring to pull the pads together and now the wheel is spinning without the pads even touching the drum. The handbreak needs 2 more snaps until it stops but that's ok by me.

Btw, anyone have any nice comments about the left headlight and changing the bulb in it?

I'd really like to have a little chat with the person who design that part. How are you supposed to change it without spilling blood?

[peterc.lewis@blueyonder.co.uk]

I know what you mean about the left hand head lamp bulb.

Simple answer is to remove the Battery. Gives you a lot more room.

Get yourself a small make up mirror (not sayuing where I got mine but I had to get it back in there before I went out on Friday Night ) just so you can have a better look at the bulb locater recesses.

It's still a pain but at least you wont draw too much blood.

[Rvall]

Ha,ha...

Thank for the tips. I'll try that next time.

Hope you had a nice friday night.

['98 GS TD]

Then I discovered an adjustment ring, hidden behind a piece of bent metal. The autoadjuster (I guess), so I turned the ring to pull the pads together and now the wheel is spinning without the pads even touching the drum. The handbreak needs 2 more snaps until it stops but that's ok by me.

I'm trying this same job...shoes stuck against drum making it impossible to remove the drum...sounds like shoe is worn down to the metal when braking...Haynes manual says use a piece of bent wire through inspection hole on trailing shoe to pull shoe away from drum but cant figure this out...where is the adjustment ring, hidden behind a piece of bent metal that Rvall mentions above...any advice welcome...

Thanks!

[gazza1286]

The bent wire referred to on para 7.5 needs to be hooked around the lever visible on the image 8.6q (page 9.9) you will be moving this leave so that it swings towards the edge of the backing plate. This effectively releases any further slack in the handbrake cable ( the steps above those describe releasing as much slack as possible in the handbrake cable.

Personally I've never tried this method. The drums on all of my Toyotas have been a pain to release. The best method I have found is to use a heavy rubber mallet. Strike - twist. - Make sure that the drum isn't rusted onto the hub face plate as this is the first problem to overcome. You will know that you've sorted this of the studs can moved and touch both edges of the holes in the drum when turning the drum back and forward.

Hit the drum pretty hard and twist and pull towards yourself at the same time. The drum will slowly begin to move outwards. Once it locks - knock it back into place and repeat. Hold the drum with both hands cupped around it and as you turn it pull the drum towards your body. It's sometimes painfully slow doing this but it will work.

['98 GS TD]

Nice one gazza...thanks for that useful info...I'll have a go at the mallet way...seems more fun than messing about with the Haynes way...