Any Tips What To Look Out For On A Glanza

[blacksmith105]

Hi New to the forum

Looking at a 97 1.3 non turbo glanza with 86 k on the clock , seems like in good cond with water and timing belt done

Any pointers as to what to look out for with this car , first glanza

Thanks

[1998glanzav]

First Check Under the bonnet:

Engine oil condition. Black oil suggests poor maintenance.

Service history. Very important, especially for a turbo engine.

Receipts from previous turbo repairs. Proof of a reputable service history.

Aftermarket turbo remanufacturer’s name plate. Has the turbo been replaced before and by whom ? Be suspicious if the repair was not carried out by a reputable company.

Oil leaks around the turbo. Signs of a poor turbo rebuild or a worn turbo.

Heat shields loose around the turbo. Sign of a recent replacement turbo.

Painted exhaust turbine housing. Could be trying to hide a poor quality turbo repair.

Water staining around the turbo bearing housing. Leaking water connections.

Alignment of hoses and connections. Poor alignment indicates a badly repaired turbo.

Non-genuine hose clips. May indicate poor workmanship.

Bleed valve on actuator hose. Turbo has been operating at a higher boost pressure that it was originally designed for. This may have damaged the turbo.

Dump valve. Indicates that other engine modifications may have been performed.

Replacement actuator. Uprated actuators are fitted to operate at a higher boost pressure. This may result in turbo damage.

Grip marks on actuator rod. Signs of a recently increased or reduced boost pressure adjustment or problems with the turbo.

Air filter condition. Signs of oil staining on the air filter may indicate engine wear.

Split compressor intake hose. Unfiltered air entering a turbo will cause damage to the compressor wheel.

Exhaust leaks. An incorrectly serviced engine can run weak, causing excessive heat build-up in the exhaust. This leads to warping and cracking of the exhaust manifold and turbine housing.

Non genuine oil filter. A sign of cost cutting when servicing a car.

Retro-fitted boost gauges. Cars fitted with a boost gauge tend to have had the boost pressure increased.

Compressor wheel lift. Movement of the turbocharger’s rotating shaft, up and down, is an indication of turbo bearing wear.

Rubbing compressor wheel marks. If you can get the owners permission to remove the air filter hose, check signs of the rotating compressor wheel making contact with or rubbing the housing. This indicates excessive wear in the turbo bearings and means a turbo rebuild is imminent.

Actuator hose cracked or split. This will cause over-boost.

Intercooler damaged or split. This will cause low boost and a loss of power.

Rubbing or split Intercooler hoses. This will cause low boost and a loss of power.

Oil feed hose leaking. May lead to turbo oil starvation and eventual failure.

Oil drain hoses squashed or bent. Restrictions in the turbo oil return will lead to leaking turbo seals and blue oil smoke from the exhaust.

Breather hoses squashed or bent. Restrictions in the breather pipes or hoses may cause blue oil smoke from the exhaust.

Breather system "one-way" valve sticking. Can cause blue exhaust oil smoke.

Uprated or non genuine exhaust system. Reducing the exhaust back pressure with a free flow exhaust system can cause oil leakage from the turbo oil seals, leading to blue exhaust oil smoke.

While Road Testing:

Whistling noise on acceleration. Turbo imbalance or air leak.

Rubbing noise on acceleration. Turbo bearings badly worn.

Poor performance. Low boost caused by defective turbo, wastegate mechanism or air leak.

Too much performance. Over boost may be due to an incorrectly adjusted or defective wastegate.

Hesitation - violent. This condition can be experienced when accelerating hard. The boost pressure exceeds a nominal value, leading to over boost (a safety cut out switch). The problem may be caused by a defective wastegate.

Hesitation - holding back. Engine mixture weak, or air restriction.

Pinking or detonation under load. Incorrect ignition setting, poor quality fuel, excessive boost pressure or a poorly maintained engine.

Blue smoke under hard acceleration. Engine wear or defective breather system.

Blue smoke under deceleration. Engine wear

Now whilst the engine is at normal operating temperature, leave the engine idling for 10 minutes. Check the following ...

Blue oil smoke at idle. Defective turbo seals, excessive bearing wear, defective breather system or restricted turbo oil drain system.

Black smoke at idle. Worn diesel injection pump or injectors or excessive over-fuelling.

White smoke at idle. Engine damage, cracked cylinder head or head gasket failure. Very rarely caused by a damaged turbocharger.