Engine Oil For 2005 D4d Rav4

[jedi134]

Hi what type of engine oil do I used for the D4D engine, and what are the service intervals for this model, I`ve also been looking for some repair manuals and such like so that I can learn a bit about the mechanics of the little beauty, does anyone know where I can get such items?

Thanks in advance. :bookworm:

[rangermastiffs]

Hi what type of engine oil do I used for the D4D engine, and what are the service intervals for this model, I`ve also been looking for some repair manuals and such like so that I can learn a bit about the mechanics of the little beauty, does anyone know where I can get such items?

Thanks in advance. :bookworm:

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/iframe.do?c...ntentId=7044829

[jedi134]

Thanks for that, but are there any specific toyota specifications that the oil should meet, for example I have been driving a VW for a while, and they recommed only oils that meet the VW502. VW505 and for newer vehicles VW504, VW507 specifications. do toyota have any such specifications, also any idea`s where I can get a decent repair manual for my RAV? For VW I use ELSAWIN which is what the dealer use`s comes on DVD, is there anything in depth and detailed as this for toyota?

[anchorman]

Welcome to the club.

The specs for all the oils are given on this data sheet. I use Morris's 5W/30 semi synthetic but any good quality equivalent will do.

If you print this out and laminate it you can keep it on the job while you service your car.

rav4_diesel.pdf

[PhilGee]

If you are every unsure of anything like this, its all in the owners hanbook near the back. As anchorman says, 5W30 grade is recommended if i remember rightly. As for the tech manuals, i'm sure there are some on the net somewhere.

[hedleyf]

Yep,

5/ 30 semi is good,those with a particulate filter should use a low ash content oil such as Mobil ,it will state on the can that its a low ash oil,particulate filters are only on the 180s I think,these engines have the green Dcat Badge on the wings and engine cover. service intervals are 1 year or 10,000 miles with ever comes first.

[jedi134]

Thanks for all the information on the oil people very much appreciated, I did read the manual but i`m eager for more detail, I was just thinking that a 5w30 oil would be way to thin for a diesel engine, but it seems all modern cars are now using this grade of oil, but does it offer as much protection as a 10w40 for example? and would I benefit from using a fully synthetic in these engine`s. I'm not too clued up on diesel engines.

Anchorman the PDF is the sort of thing I`m looking for, are there any step by step repair manuals around for my model and age of Rav? and do you know if there is any diagnostic software available for Toyota`s to scan error codes etc through the odbII port? Sorry to mention vw again but I use software called vagcom from www.ross-tech.com for diagnostic purposes, is there anything similar for Toyota?

[anchorman]

Thanks for all the information on the oil people very much appreciated, I did read the manual but i`m eager for more detail, I was just thinking that a 5w30 oil would be way to thin for a diesel engine, but it seems all modern cars are now using this grade of oil, but does it offer as much protection as a 10w40 for example? and would I benefit from using a fully synthetic in these engine`s. I'm not too clued up on diesel engines.

Anchorman the PDF is the sort of thing I`m looking for, are there any step by step repair manuals around for my model and age of Rav? and do you know if there is any diagnostic software available for Toyota`s to scan error codes etc through the odbII port? Sorry to mention vw again but I use software called vagcom from www.ross-tech.com for diagnostic purposes, is there anything similar for Toyota?

You could use 10W/40 oil but they recommend 5W/30 as the "preferred" viscosity choice. Try not to think of the thickness but the ability to withstand temperature under pressure and the fine tolerances in your engine allow the oil to circulate quickly while under temperature/pressure - both while very cold and very hot. I personally won't use fully synthetic simply because it can cause high oil consumption as it clings to surfaces and can get burned off. You can use it but even our parts guru (Parts-King) thinks it is an unnecessary expense. You are better to change your oil frequently if you do short mileages (I do mine in spring and autumn) and just on time (10k or 1 year - whichever comes first) at higher mileages. Use good quality oil and filters and your engine will last for donkeys years.

You can get an OBDII reader for less than £30 delivered;

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/UNIVERSAL-OBD2-II-CA...A1%7C240%3A1308

The book with it shows hundreds of generic codes but some of the Toyota specific are here;

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/

You can buy the Toyota reader which also allows detailed interrogation and some programming but they are very expensive (£1000s) - just search the internet.

The best source of information for the manual is the Toyota online manual. It comes out at about £3 for at least an hour on your credit card but has some excellent info in pdf form. Go onto paid subscriptions in the repair section here;

http://techdoc.toyota-europe.com/

example attached;

Good luck mate

change_oil.pdf

[jedi134]

I went for Mobil 1 0w40 turbo diesel fully synthetic in the end, thought I`d have the best of both worlds Its API CF rated so I presume it will be ok? Came it at £19.99 plus the dreaded from costco for 4L so had to buy 2x of. Also bought a pollen filter and was surprised how flimsy it was and the cost £11.95..do`es it have special anti bacterial properties?

Now I need to change the gearbox, transfer box and rear final drive oils, any recommendations for oils etc. also I could not see where the gear box drain and fill plugs are, any idea`s? are they up top under the air box area?

[anchorman]

I went for Mobil 1 0w40 turbo diesel fully synthetic in the end, thought I`d have the best of both worlds Its API CF rated so I presume it will be ok? Came it at £19.99 plus the dreaded from costco for 4L so had to buy 2x of. Also bought a pollen filter and was surprised how flimsy it was and the cost £11.95..do`es it have special anti bacterial properties?

Now I need to change the gearbox, transfer box and rear final drive oils, any recommendations for oils etc. also I could not see where the gear box drain and fill plugs are, any idea`s? are they up top under the air box area?

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.p...st&p=821701

[jedi134]

Thanks again! Great pics too, cheers

[jedi134]

Well 6hrs later and i`ve changed gearbox, transfer box and final rear drive oils.

I used Fuchs Titan gear Hyp 80w/90 API GL-5 rating around £15 for 4 liters and Fuchs Titan Gear syn (semi synth) 75w/90 API GL-4 & GL-5 rated again around £15 for 4 liters, I always get a bit extra just in-case i need it, bought from GFS

Started with the rear final drive, I did this without jacking up the rav just enough space to undo the Allen type bolts, quite easy this one, no problems.

Then I went on to the transfer box, this one a bit more difficult, I had to drive the front up onto ramps, but then the level of the Rav was not right, and filling would be difficult, so I had to also jack the back up using trolley jacks either side so as to raise the Rav level, this was time consuming. The fill plug was difficult to remove as I had to use a long extension on the socket to reach the bolt, and it kept slipping off, eventually and a few bruised fingers later it freed its self...thank god.. Filling was a doddle.

Finlay the gearbox oil, this looked simple, until I tried to get the drain plug out, I did not have a socket narrow enough to fit between the bolt and the sub frame so had to improvise, I found and old socket that was`nt to deep, I had to knock it onto the drain bolt with a small hammer as it had slightly dented insides, it eventually went on and I used a pair of mole grips to grip this socked, and to my surprise it freed its self, I don`t think it was tightened up to tight previously due to the lack of space to get at it, either that or the hammering freed it up

So anyway lots of sucking and pumping (ooo err missus! ;) ) with the syringe pump it was full again.. Hurray!!!

Glad i don`t have to do all that again in a hurry, Thanks again Anchorman for the pics and advice.

just one more thing, when I opened up the fill plug on the gear box, it was like opening a bottle of pop, I heared a slight psssss as air rushed out that smelt of gear oil, is this normal, the Psssss I mean and not the gear oil smell.

[anchorman]

Yes - perfectly normal pssssing noise! There is a breather on top of the gear selector housing but it has a valve in it.

Well done for changing the oils - you have saved a small fortune doing it yourself. I used a spanner as in the photo because of that sub frame.

The newer 4.3 transfer box is much easier to fill because they have put a plug near the top. You forget the level and pour the right amount of oil in - easy!

The Fuchs oil you have used is first class. Some polite people pronounce it fooshs but the proper way rhymes with ducks and if you try it otherwise with a German he will think you are very odd!