Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


  • Join Toyota Owners Club

    Join Europe's Largest Toyota Community! It's FREE!

     

     

How Much Would It Cost Me To Drive To To Newcastle And Back?


cruella
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hello lovelies! :group-cuddles: Not been about for a while due to 'pressure of work' :rolleyes: inbetween dashing up and down to Maters as she isn't too well :(

So far I have been getting the train from London to Newcastle, as I can use their car whilst I'm up there. The fare prices vary enormously, from about £40 return (if you book 3 centuries in advance, on the cusp of a new moon, whilst standing on one leg with the wind to the east), to more than £250 return! :eek: :ffs:

Sooooo, I was wondering just how much it would cost me in petrol in me Rav? Just for times when I need to go up on the spur of the moment, so to speak - I don't really like the thought of driving all that way (290-odd miles each way) on the motorway as I am a bit of a wuss; but needs must so they say.

I did do a search, but I'm not even sure how much the tank holds! So I would like to know how much it would cost me if Petrol was say 95p per litre. I thorugh this challenge open to you mathematical anoraks gurus ;)

I must confess, however, I've had the Rav 3 months and I still haven't had it in 5th gear! :blushing: I am still loving it, but still finding the gears rather clunky...

Thanks in advance :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sooooo, I was wondering just how much it would cost me in petrol in me Rav? Just for times when I need to go up on the spur of the moment, so to speak - I don't really like the thought of driving all that way (290-odd miles each way) on the motorway as I am a bit of a wuss; but needs must so they say.

I did do a search, but I'm not even sure how much the tank holds! So I would like to know how much it would cost me if Petrol was say 95p per litre. I'll throw this challenge open to you mathematical anoraks gurus ;)

I must confess, however, I've had the Rav 3 months and I still haven't had it in 5th gear! :blushing: I am still loving it, but still finding the gears rather clunky...

Thanks in advance :)

We get between 250 and 280 miles out of a tank of petrol in our 3 door Rav, which costs about £40 to fill up. So I would say you are looking at about £120 in petrol to get there and back ;)

You could do it for less, if you only fill the 3rd tank up with enough petrol to get you home! :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Driving carefully, you will probably get there in about a tank of fuel. Depending on the time of day you travel and the position of the moon, it could be downhill all the way back so might be less than a tank.

However, do you mean the real cost or just the cost of fuel?

If you are using the train, then try obtaining an old persons card, or a companion card or even a disabled card?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello lovelies! :group-cuddles: Not been about for a while due to 'pressure of work' :rolleyes: inbetween dashing up and down to Maters as she isn't too well :(

So far I have been getting the train from London to Newcastle, as I can use their car whilst I'm up there. The fare prices vary enormously, from about £40 return (if you book 3 centuries in advance, on the cusp of a new moon, whilst standing on one leg with the wind to the east), to more than £250 return! :eek: :ffs:

Sooooo, I was wondering just how much it would cost me in petrol in me Rav? Just for times when I need to go up on the spur of the moment, so to speak - I don't really like the thought of driving all that way (290-odd miles each way) on the motorway as I am a bit of a wuss; but needs must so they say.

I did do a search, but I'm not even sure how much the tank holds! So I would like to know how much it would cost me if Petrol was say 95p per litre. I thorugh this challenge open to you mathematical anoraks gurus ;)

I must confess, however, I've had the Rav 3 months and I still haven't had it in 5th gear! :blushing: I am still loving it, but still finding the gears rather clunky...

Thanks in advance :)

Cost = (Total Distance) / (Miles per Gallon) * 4.54 * (Price per Litre)

So:

> 580 miles at 40 mpg = 580 / 40 * 4.54 * 0.95 = GBP 62.54

> 580 miles at 30 mpg = 580 / 30 * 4.54 * 0.95 = GBP 83.39

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are bonkers if you drive!

If you book in advance the fares are from £14 each way (always book 2 single fares and not return). There is no way that I would drive all that way.

If you drive it is going to cost a fortune as MarsKy has shown plus any parking plus adding mileage on your car plus the risk of "something" happening, plus the A1 and M1 are murder and it will take you hours. And don't forget you may even have to do the unthinkable and use 5th gear!!!

I am going to London next week and my car is staying locked up at home. I am going on one of Mr Branson's silver pointy things.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Thanks lovelies! :)

I know it's mad to drive under normal circumstances, but if I don't book yonks in advance the cheapest I've managed is £85 for 3 weeks in advance.

I always book 2 singles, but I just thought it would be interesting to know what the comparison is - and it would be nice to have a bit more flexibility at times.

Looks like it'll be the train unless it's a spur of the moment thing. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are bonkers if you drive!

I am going to London next week and my car is staying locked up at home. I am going on one of Mr Branson's silver pointy things.

I though you might have noticed that I am a little bonkers anyhoooo! :lol:

OOOooooh! What are you doing down here in Londinium - anything exciting?

Aren't those silver pointy jobbies a bit of a busman's holiday for you? :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It isn't just the fuel -doesn't the AA work out that it's something like 50p a mile (others will no doubt have a more exact figure) so 600 miles at 50p a mile =£300 -maybe the train should take the strain.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It isn't just the fuel -doesn't the AA work out that it's something like 50p a mile (others will no doubt have a more exact figure) so 600 miles at 50p a mile =£300 -maybe the train should take the strain.

HMRC allow you to claim 50p/mile when travelling by car on business and they are not renown for giving anything away :!Removed!:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It isn't just the fuel -doesn't the AA work out that it's something like 50p a mile (others will no doubt have a more exact figure) so 600 miles at 50p a mile =£300 -maybe the train should take the strain.

HMRC allow you to claim 50p/mile when travelling by car on business and they are not renown for giving anything away :!Removed!:

It was 40p per mile up to the first 10000 miles the last time I claimed, which was two weeks ago. And it peeves me off because it's been 40p for at least the last 14 years.

Anyway, a RAV sitting on the road not being used is a lot more expensive than the other options - go on, try the 5th gear out :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It isn't just the fuel -doesn't the AA work out that it's something like 50p a mile (others will no doubt have a more exact figure) so 600 miles at 50p a mile =£300 -maybe the train should take the strain.

HMRC allow you to claim 50p/mile when travelling by car on business and they are not renown for giving anything away :!Removed!:

It was 40p per mile up to the first 10000 miles the last time I claimed, which was two weeks ago. And it peeves me off because it's been 40p for at least the last 14 years.

Anyway, a RAV sitting on the road not being used is a lot more expensive than the other options - go on, try the 5th gear out :thumbsup:

Oppps! You're dead right - the 50p was what I used to claim for running an Isuzu Trooper when towing. I'm down to 40p now with the RAV - BUT the fuel consumption is about half of the Isuzu :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It isn't just the fuel -doesn't the AA work out that it's something like 50p a mile (others will no doubt have a more exact figure) so 600 miles at 50p a mile =£300 -maybe the train should take the strain.

HMRC allow you to claim 50p/mile when travelling by car on business and they are not renown for giving anything away :!Removed!:

It was 40p per mile up to the first 10000 miles the last time I claimed, which was two weeks ago. And it peeves me off because it's been 40p for at least the last 14 years.

Anyway, a RAV sitting on the road not being used is a lot more expensive than the other options - go on, try the 5th gear out :thumbsup:

Work give me about 40p per mile, but I don't venture too far :)

I might just try 5th gear out on a little tripette to Whitstable at the weekend if the weather holds B) I am a little worried about going straight from 5th into reverse by accident though when I slow down! :eek: Is this possible? :wacko:

My clunky gear change is making me a tad paranoid... :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am a little worried about going straight from 5th into reverse by accident though when I slow down! :eek: Is this possible? :wacko:

My clunky gear change is making me a tad paranoid... :D

If you're serious, then when changing down from 5th, pull it into neutral, loosen your grip on the knob for half a second, then pull it gently down into 4th. The spring will guide it. On the contrary, normally you need to be quite brutal to put it in reverse.

First time out in our 4.3, my wife was impatient "I know everything" but kept stalling when pulling away - bunch of school run mums behind increased the stress level and the swearing. Eventually I managed to get to the lever and show her to pull it definitely over to the left - she'd been drifting it straight up into 3rd each time. :wacko:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am a little worried about going straight from 5th into reverse by accident though when I slow down! :eek: Is this possible? :wacko:

My clunky gear change is making me a tad paranoid... :D

If you're serious, then when changing down from 5th, pull it into neutral, loosen your grip on the knob for half a second, then pull it gently down into 4th. The spring will guide it. On the contrary, normally you need to be quite brutal to put it in reverse.

First time out in our 4.3, my wife was impatient "I know everything" but kept stalling when pulling away - bunch of school run mums behind increased the stress level and the swearing. Eventually I managed to get to the lever and show her to pull it definitely over to the left - she'd been drifting it straight up into 3rd each time. :wacko:

I was fairly serious :blush: I have had a few problems going from 2nd to 3rd and occasionally from neutral into reverse it just downright refuses to go! :censor:

I believe these are fairly common and well documented foibles with the Rav gearbox, at first I thought it was me being a bit of a 'tard, as I'd been driving a classic car for ages previously, but actually I'm not a bad driver and 3 months down the line, I'm now starting to think that my car might have the 'clunky gearbox' syndrome. :rolleyes: It is still under a years extended warranty and I was wondering if this would be covered under the warranty.

I am going to ask my MOT examiner mate to have a drive of it to see if he thinks it is notchy, he drives loads of cars so he should be able to pick up on it. I might just be pre-empting it now - you know when you wind yourself up to something, so you subconciously make it happen? A bit like dipping your clutch! :wacko:

Link to comment
Share on other sites


You are bonkers if you drive!

If you book in advance the fares are from £14 each way (always book 2 single fares and not return). There is no way that I would drive all that way.

If you drive it is going to cost a fortune as MarsKy has shown plus any parking plus adding mileage on your car plus the risk of "something" happening, plus the A1 and M1 are murder and it will take you hours. And don't forget you may even have to do the unthinkable and use 5th gear!!!

I am going to London next week and my car is staying locked up at home. I am going on one of Mr Branson's silver pointy things.

I must be bonkers!!

I drove Devon to Scotland and worked out it is cheaper overall even with cheap flights or trains.

Spent about £170 in fuel, and the return flights would be say £30. But ... parking at airport for a week .... £50? then car hire for a week in a cr*ppy fiesta or corsa? £80 at least? 

The AA figures of 50p a mile or something are not right for incremental miles.  What I mean by that is those figures include road tax, insurance all divided by the annual mileage as well asd servicing, fuel etc.

doesn't matter if you do 1 mile or 100,000 miles when it comes to tax and insurance - cost is the same.  So just factor in petrol (15p a mile say), servicing (1.5p a mile), tyres (1p mile) and that is the per miles cost - plus maybe 2.5p a mile for depreciation on higher miles - so call it 20p a mile for incremental miles.

But IF you don't need to pay for parking and just going for a day or so, get the train/plane and if need be hire a car and you will still be in the money 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am a little worried about going straight from 5th into reverse by accident though when I slow down! :eek: Is this possible? :wacko:

My clunky gear change is making me a tad paranoid... :D

If you're serious, then when changing down from 5th, pull it into neutral, loosen your grip on the knob for half a second, then pull it gently down into 4th. The spring will guide it. On the contrary, normally you need to be quite brutal to put it in reverse.

First time out in our 4.3, my wife was impatient "I know everything" but kept stalling when pulling away - bunch of school run mums behind increased the stress level and the swearing. Eventually I managed to get to the lever and show her to pull it definitely over to the left - she'd been drifting it straight up into 3rd each time. :wacko:

I was fairly serious :blush: I have had a few problems going from 2nd to 3rd and occasionally from neutral into reverse it just downright refuses to go! :censor:

I believe these are fairly common and well documented foibles with the Rav gearbox, at first I thought it was me being a bit of a 'tard, as I'd been driving a classic car for ages previously, but actually I'm not a bad driver and 3 months down the line, I'm now starting to think that my car might have the 'clunky gearbox' syndrome. :rolleyes: It is still under a years extended warranty and I was wondering if this would be covered under the warranty.

I am going to ask my MOT examiner mate to have a drive of it to see if he thinks it is notchy, he drives loads of cars so he should be able to pick up on it. I might just be pre-empting it now - you know when you wind yourself up to something, so you subconciously make it happen? A bit like dipping your clutch! :wacko:

...and here was me thinking it was just that 'Ravi' is begining to show his age with his clunky, 'sticking' gearbox! Frustrating isn't it? The box certainly seems to be very 'close' - even compared to my VW campervan, which is almost impossible to get into first, so I tend to always start in 2nd unless getting out of mud/sand etc. I'm wondering if 'faster' vehicles have 'closer' gear change boxes? (My old Land-Rovers, and my M.M Traveller's boxes were about 6" between gears!) There MUST be an 'answer' somewhere amongst this great band of mechanical experts! (could it be as simple as double declutching? "wassat?" she says - but on t'other hand if you're an ex clasic car owner you'll know, won't you?)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am a little worried about going straight from 5th into reverse by accident though when I slow down! :eek: Is this possible? :wacko:

My clunky gear change is making me a tad paranoid... :D

If you're serious, then when changing down from 5th, pull it into neutral, loosen your grip on the knob for half a second, then pull it gently down into 4th. The spring will guide it. On the contrary, normally you need to be quite brutal to put it in reverse.

First time out in our 4.3, my wife was impatient "I know everything" but kept stalling when pulling away - bunch of school run mums behind increased the stress level and the swearing. Eventually I managed to get to the lever and show her to pull it definitely over to the left - she'd been drifting it straight up into 3rd each time. :wacko:

I was fairly serious :blush: I have had a few problems going from 2nd to 3rd and occasionally from neutral into reverse it just downright refuses to go! :censor:

I believe these are fairly common and well documented foibles with the Rav gearbox, at first I thought it was me being a bit of a 'tard, as I'd been driving a classic car for ages previously, but actually I'm not a bad driver and 3 months down the line, I'm now starting to think that my car might have the 'clunky gearbox' syndrome. :rolleyes: It is still under a years extended warranty and I was wondering if this would be covered under the warranty.

I am going to ask my MOT examiner mate to have a drive of it to see if he thinks it is notchy, he drives loads of cars so he should be able to pick up on it. I might just be pre-empting it now - you know when you wind yourself up to something, so you subconciously make it happen? A bit like dipping your clutch! :wacko:

...and here was me thinking it was just that 'Ravi' is begining to show his age with his clunky, 'sticking' gearbox! Frustrating isn't it? The box certainly seems to be very 'close' - even compared to my VW campervan, which is almost impossible to get into first, so I tend to always start in 2nd unless getting out of mud/sand etc. I'm wondering if 'faster' vehicles have 'closer' gear change boxes? (My old Land-Rovers, and my M.M Traveller's boxes were about 6" between gears!) There MUST be an 'answer' somewhere amongst this great band of mechanical experts! (could it be as simple as double declutching? "wassat?" she says - but on t'other hand if you're an ex clasic car owner you'll know, won't you?)

I'm not an ex classic car owner - I still have 'em! (hoarder). I too have vw camper vans (2) and a 63 rag top beetle! I just wanted something warm and easy to drive for the winter and after a lengthy process of elimination ended up at a Rav! One of the lovely useful guru's on here actually put up a pictorial 'how to' on alleviating some of the 'notchiness', which I may resort to, but as I have just bought it, I thought it might be worth giving the dealer a ring before I ruin my manicure... :driving:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are bonkers if you drive!

If you book in advance the fares are from £14 each way (always book 2 single fares and not return). There is no way that I would drive all that way.

If you drive it is going to cost a fortune as MarsKy has shown plus any parking plus adding mileage on your car plus the risk of "something" happening, plus the A1 and M1 are murder and it will take you hours. And don't forget you may even have to do the unthinkable and use 5th gear!!!

I am going to London next week and my car is staying locked up at home. I am going on one of Mr Branson's silver pointy things.

I must be bonkers!!

I drove Devon to Scotland and worked out it is cheaper overall even with cheap flights or trains.

Spent about £170 in fuel, and the return flights would be say £30. But ... parking at airport for a week .... £50? then car hire for a week in a cr*ppy fiesta or corsa? £80 at least? 

The AA figures of 50p a mile or something are not right for incremental miles.  What I mean by that is those figures include road tax, insurance all divided by the annual mileage as well asd servicing, fuel etc.

doesn't matter if you do 1 mile or 100,000 miles when it comes to tax and insurance - cost is the same.  So just factor in petrol (15p a mile say), servicing (1.5p a mile), tyres (1p mile) and that is the per miles cost - plus maybe 2.5p a mile for depreciation on higher miles - so call it 20p a mile for incremental miles.

But IF you don't need to pay for parking and just going for a day or so, get the train/plane and if need be hire a car and you will still be in the money 

Hey sweetie :hug:

Devon to Scotland is a bit of a marathon isn't it? I am thinking of just driving up those times when I have to after looking at the replies - I just thought I was perhaps being a bit lame in not doing it. I can use the olds' Range Rover when I'm up there, so it's not too bad. If I can ever drug persuade Meldrew to come up with me it would be worth our while driving, but until then I suppose I'll just have to put up with the great unwashed! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cru

The gearstick is connected to the gearbox by cables. If you pop the cover off like this;

IMG_1120.jpg

.......and look down you will see the cables. You can see a bit in this photo up at the front but you won't see all the handbrake bits in the foreground;

IMG_1119.jpg

Now with the engine running and your foot on the clutch just work the lever back and to and side to side and you will see it all working. One cable does backward and forward and the other does side to side. Inside all that white plastic are balls and springs that help "click" the gearstick in position. There is actually no harm in it doing what it does - it just feels a bit clunky!

You could try a squirt of WD40 and it will help a bit but it won't stop it.

As far as gear selecting goes the easiest way of doing it is to remember that 3rd and 4th lie in the middle and all the others are on a spring. If you push the stick over to first then pull it back to 2nd then try this. When going from 2nd to 3rd just push the gearstick forward with the end of your finger. When it gets to neutral it will drop across to the middle and then just continue to push it forward with your finger into 3rd. The same works coming out of 5th to 4th and don't worry, you can't go from 5th to reverse as there is an interlock to stop it going in unless you have been in neutral. Only light finger pressure is needed for each change.

After you have had a play the cover just snaps back on.

To answer your earlier question, anchorwoman has a "landmark" birthday so I am taking her to see Dirty Dancing one night and to one of Ramsey's gaffs on the next to see if it is worth all that bad language!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cru

The gearstick is connected to the gearbox by cables. If you pop the cover off like this;

IMG_1120.jpg

.......and look down you will see the cables. You can see a bit in this photo up at the front but you won't see all the handbrake bits in the foreground;

IMG_1119.jpg

Now with the engine running and your foot on the clutch just work the lever back and to and side to side and you will see it all working. One cable does backward and forward and the other does side to side. Inside all that white plastic are balls and springs that help "click" the gearstick in position. There is actually no harm in it doing what it does - it just feels a bit clunky!

You could try a squirt of WD40 and it will help a bit but it won't stop it.

As far as gear selecting goes the easiest way of doing it is to remember that 3rd and 4th lie in the middle and all the others are on a spring. If you push the stick over to first then pull it back to 2nd then try this. When going from 2nd to 3rd just push the gearstick forward with the end of your finger. When it gets to neutral it will drop across to the middle and then just continue to push it forward with your finger into 3rd. The same works coming out of 5th to 4th and don't worry, you can't go from 5th to reverse as there is an interlock to stop it going in unless you have been in neutral. Only light finger pressure is needed for each change.

After you have had a play the cover just snaps back on.

To answer your earlier question, anchorwoman has a "landmark" birthday so I am taking her to see Dirty Dancing one night and to one of Ramsey's gaffs on the next to see if it is worth all that bad language!!!

Ooh you are a gem! I will give it a spray with WD40 over the weekend.

Anchor woman is a very lucky lady! ;) Dirty Dancing is very good, tho I haven't been to one of Ramsay's gaffs since he became infamous. He does have a pub quite close to our house tho, so we have been known to show our faces in there. I hope you both enjoy her landmark! :flowers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am a little worried about going straight from 5th into reverse by accident though when I slow down! :eek: Is this possible? :wacko:

My clunky gear change is making me a tad paranoid... :D

If you're serious, then when changing down from 5th, pull it into neutral, loosen your grip on the knob for half a second, then pull it gently down into 4th. The spring will guide it. On the contrary, normally you need to be quite brutal to put it in reverse.

First time out in our 4.3, my wife was impatient "I know everything" but kept stalling when pulling away - bunch of school run mums behind increased the stress level and the swearing. Eventually I managed to get to the lever and show her to pull it definitely over to the left - she'd been drifting it straight up into 3rd each time. :wacko:

I was fairly serious :blush: I have had a few problems going from 2nd to 3rd and occasionally from neutral into reverse it just downright refuses to go! :censor:

I believe these are fairly common and well documented foibles with the Rav gearbox, at first I thought it was me being a bit of a 'tard, as I'd been driving a classic car for ages previously, but actually I'm not a bad driver and 3 months down the line, I'm now starting to think that my car might have the 'clunky gearbox' syndrome. :rolleyes: It is still under a years extended warranty and I was wondering if this would be covered under the warranty.

I am going to ask my MOT examiner mate to have a drive of it to see if he thinks it is notchy, he drives loads of cars so he should be able to pick up on it. I might just be pre-empting it now - you know when you wind yourself up to something, so you subconciously make it happen? A bit like dipping your clutch! :wacko:

...and here was me thinking it was just that 'Ravi' is begining to show his age with his clunky, 'sticking' gearbox! Frustrating isn't it? The box certainly seems to be very 'close' - even compared to my VW campervan, which is almost impossible to get into first, so I tend to always start in 2nd unless getting out of mud/sand etc. I'm wondering if 'faster' vehicles have 'closer' gear change boxes? (My old Land-Rovers, and my M.M Traveller's boxes were about 6" between gears!) There MUST be an 'answer' somewhere amongst this great band of mechanical experts! (could it be as simple as double declutching? "wassat?" she says - but on t'other hand if you're an ex clasic car owner you'll know, won't you?)

I'm not an ex classic car owner - I still have 'em! (hoarder). I too have vw camper vans (2) and a 63 rag top beetle! I just wanted something warm and easy to drive for the winter and after a lengthy process of elimination ended up at a Rav! One of the lovely useful guru's on here actually put up a pictorial 'how to' on alleviating some of the 'notchiness', which I may resort to, but as I have just bought it, I thought it might be worth giving the dealer a ring before I ruin my manicure... :driving:

Ooops, sorry M'lady (grovel grovel etc) - noo member an' all that. Most impressed! Quite right to 'let the dealer take the strain' afore ye start getting yer spanners out! (or do you have a MAN to do all that oily, nail-breaking stuff?) Most female classic car owners I know actually ENJOY getting under their 'pride and joy(s) - but there's always exceptions! RAVS are certainly warm (well, mine is -I'd say 'overwarm' - but then I'm used to draughty old Land-Rovers etc!)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cru

The gearstick is connected to the gearbox by cables. If you pop the cover off like this;

IMG_1120.jpg

.......and look down you will see the cables. You can see a bit in this photo up at the front but you won't see all the handbrake bits in the foreground;

IMG_1119.jpg

Now with the engine running and your foot on the clutch just work the lever back and to and side to side and you will see it all working. One cable does backward and forward and the other does side to side. Inside all that white plastic are balls and springs that help "click" the gearstick in position. There is actually no harm in it doing what it does - it just feels a bit clunky!

You could try a squirt of WD40 and it will help a bit but it won't stop it.

As far as gear selecting goes the easiest way of doing it is to remember that 3rd and 4th lie in the middle and all the others are on a spring. If you push the stick over to first then pull it back to 2nd then try this. When going from 2nd to 3rd just push the gearstick forward with the end of your finger. When it gets to neutral it will drop across to the middle and then just continue to push it forward with your finger into 3rd. The same works coming out of 5th to 4th and don't worry, you can't go from 5th to reverse as there is an interlock to stop it going in unless you have been in neutral. Only light finger pressure is needed for each change.

After you have had a play the cover just snaps back on.

To answer your earlier question, anchorwoman has a "landmark" birthday so I am taking her to see Dirty Dancing one night and to one of Ramsey's gaffs on the next to see if it is worth all that bad language!!!

Thanks Anchorman -can't wait to get that cover off (tho' must do it under cover of darkness 'cos if 'er indoors sees me tinkering with it she'll be out there like Norah Batty saying "For the first time in your life you've got yourself a DECENT car - now why can't you leave the *!*#"!* thing ALONE?" She disna drive, of course!) It was encouraging to read that the 'clunkyness' isn't doing any real harm to the box. Thanks again (and what GREAT detailed pics. Now WHY can't HAYNES produce ones like us for us amateur 'fiddlers'?)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am a little worried about going straight from 5th into reverse by accident though when I slow down! :eek: Is this possible? :wacko:

My clunky gear change is making me a tad paranoid... :D

If you're serious, then when changing down from 5th, pull it into neutral, loosen your grip on the knob for half a second, then pull it gently down into 4th. The spring will guide it. On the contrary, normally you need to be quite brutal to put it in reverse.

First time out in our 4.3, my wife was impatient "I know everything" but kept stalling when pulling away - bunch of school run mums behind increased the stress level and the swearing. Eventually I managed to get to the lever and show her to pull it definitely over to the left - she'd been drifting it straight up into 3rd each time. :wacko:

I was fairly serious :blush: I have had a few problems going from 2nd to 3rd and occasionally from neutral into reverse it just downright refuses to go! :censor:

I believe these are fairly common and well documented foibles with the Rav gearbox, at first I thought it was me being a bit of a 'tard, as I'd been driving a classic car for ages previously, but actually I'm not a bad driver and 3 months down the line, I'm now starting to think that my car might have the 'clunky gearbox' syndrome. :rolleyes: It is still under a years extended warranty and I was wondering if this would be covered under the warranty.

I am going to ask my MOT examiner mate to have a drive of it to see if he thinks it is notchy, he drives loads of cars so he should be able to pick up on it. I might just be pre-empting it now - you know when you wind yourself up to something, so you subconciously make it happen? A bit like dipping your clutch! :wacko:

...and here was me thinking it was just that 'Ravi' is begining to show his age with his clunky, 'sticking' gearbox! Frustrating isn't it? The box certainly seems to be very 'close' - even compared to my VW campervan, which is almost impossible to get into first, so I tend to always start in 2nd unless getting out of mud/sand etc. I'm wondering if 'faster' vehicles have 'closer' gear change boxes? (My old Land-Rovers, and my M.M Traveller's boxes were about 6" between gears!) There MUST be an 'answer' somewhere amongst this great band of mechanical experts! (could it be as simple as double declutching? "wassat?" she says - but on t'other hand if you're an ex clasic car owner you'll know, won't you?)

I'm not an ex classic car owner - I still have 'em! (hoarder). I too have vw camper vans (2) and a 63 rag top beetle! I just wanted something warm and easy to drive for the winter and after a lengthy process of elimination ended up at a Rav! One of the lovely useful guru's on here actually put up a pictorial 'how to' on alleviating some of the 'notchiness', which I may resort to, but as I have just bought it, I thought it might be worth giving the dealer a ring before I ruin my manicure... :driving:

Ooops, sorry M'lady (grovel grovel etc) - noo member an' all that. Most impressed! Quite right to 'let the dealer take the strain' afore ye start getting yer spanners out! (or do you have a MAN to do all that oily, nail-breaking stuff?) Most female classic car owners I know actually ENJOY getting under their 'pride and joy(s) - but there's always exceptions! RAVS are certainly warm (well, mine is -I'd say 'overwarm' - but then I'm used to draughty old Land-Rovers etc!)

I was joking! I do all my own (old car) work, including welding, rubbing down (ooer mister) spraying and swearing! I have built a 2110 twin carb engine for the bug and it does the 1/4 mile in 12 seconds if my bottom is up to it! :lol: What type of vw van do you have? I have a 63 split and an early bay project. :)

These new fangled cars are a little beyond me though, far too technical! Although WD40 spraying I can do. ;) I do have a man, but he doesn't er; 'do', apart from complain if that counts? :P

I do agree with you, they are 'overwarm', not getting in with more clothes on than your average pedestrian is still a novelty - halfway to work I have to turn my heating off as it burns my wrists! I love it! :lol2:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the gear change mech, its pretty similar to the 4.1s. Over the years, having used wd40 and knowing its a lightweight penetrative oil, it also has a habit of being so thin it doesn't keep a film of the nylon surfaces. Yer good old vaseline (or grease) might last a wee while longer, but the newer silicon slippy stuffs interest me more for things plastic...and it seems to last a bit longer. Just a thought. I'm about to change number 1s gear change mech to a short shift to see if it improves my 2nd to 3rd change on the sprints...the existing mech is original and 15 years old after all....and the driver is just a bit older!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the gear change mech, its pretty similar to the 4.1s. Over the years, having used wd40 and knowing its a lightweight penetrative oil, it also has a habit of being so thin it doesn't keep a film of the nylon surfaces. Yer good old vaseline (or grease) might last a wee while longer, but the newer silicon slippy stuffs interest me more for things plastic...and it seems to last a bit longer. Just a thought. I'm about to change number 1s gear change mech to a short shift to see if it improves my 2nd to 3rd change on the sprints...the existing mech is original and 15 years old after all....and the driver is just a bit older!

I agree that vaseline would make a longer term solution but the trouble is getting it in there without any stripping (of parts!). WD40 makes its way in OK. I think it is only a matter of reassuring the others that there is nothing seriously wrong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Latest Deals

Toyota Official Store for genuine Toyota parts & accessories

Disclaimer: As the club is an eBay Partner, The club may be compensated if you make a purchase via eBay links

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share







×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership


  • Insurance
  • Support