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Error Codes


cfcdoc
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Hi people, i have a code 54(yes i know) on a jap import ST205. I have taken the chargecooler top off and can see the red fluid, i have blipped the throttle but its difficult to see whether the movement is just down to engine vibration or whether the pump is functioning?

Is there anything to distinguish the 2 , am i meant to see bubbles?

If the pump isnt working then surely the engine temp gauge on the dash should climb to high levels? It doesnt suggesting the pump is working. Is there anything one would expect to notice is the pump is/isnt working.Air bubbles, its difficult as i run to the drivers seat, blip the throttle, run back expecting the level to drop or see air bubbles but i think i`m convincing myself i can see things

Help needed

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why not use the throttle body by hand to blip the throttle instead of the pedal ??

fill it till it overflows , put cap back on - shut car down , take earth off Battery , press brake 2 times to dissapate any remaining 12v charge . this resets the ecu and any stored codes . reconnect earth and code 54 should be no more .

the level should run out of the top when blipping throttle so have some red4life at hand to top it back up .

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Most likely it is the sensor on the charge cooler has gone, the charge cooler system is for cooling the air going into the cold air inlet so it would not affect the water temperature gauge. Ive heard of a way to check if the pump is working, put a clear bottle over where the charge cooler cap goes give the engine some revs and see if the coolant is flowing, i think that is correct, give it a go.

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why not use the throttle body by hand to blip the throttle instead of the pedal ??

fill it till it overflows , put cap back on - shut car down , take earth off battery , press brake 2 times to dissapate any remaining 12v charge . this resets the ecu and any stored codes . reconnect earth and code 54 should be no more .

the level should run out of the top when blipping throttle so have some red4life at hand to top it back up .

hi mate, thanks, did just that and the fluid did bubble a bit so i`m assuming the pump is ok, i thought the fluid level falls not rises then the throttle is blipped. Do i literally fill it to overflowing? I can see several metal rings at the top like a screw thread, do i take it upto the top thread, wont it overflow when i put the cap on?Should it do that and therefore i know ive put enough in.

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Yeh fill it to the top, it has an over flow tank the small white bottle should have a hose coming from the charge cooler cap.

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Yeh fill it to the top, it has an over flow tank the small white bottle should have a hose coming from the charge cooler cap.

thanks clog, should there be some fluid in that overflow tank because i dont have any, does that mean that i havent got enough fluid, essentially what i`m asking is objectively how does one know when enough fluid is in there?

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Ok right i havent got the charge cooler anymore cause im in the process of switching to a front mount intercooler however there was never any liquid in my expansion tank so i doubt there will be in yours. If you have no coolant then just fill the charge cooler up with water for now if you want to go out in it, run it for 10 mins then open the cap and see where the level is, be careful as a lot of steam may come out of it so use a rag most likely it will have a dropped a touch just top it up if you want but i think it should be ok. I suppose if you want to be a bit safer go out in it come back and let it cool down then look in the charge cooler and see what the level is.

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Ok right i havent got the charge cooler anymore cause im in the process of switching to a front mount intercooler however there was never any liquid in my expansion tank so i doubt there will be in yours. If you have no coolant then just fill the charge cooler up with water for now if you want to go out in it, run it for 10 mins then open the cap and see where the level is, be careful as a lot of steam may come out of it so use a rag most likely it will have a dropped a touch just top it up if you want but i think it should be ok. I suppose if you want to be a bit safer go out in it come back and let it cool down then look in the charge cooler and see what the level is.

Yeah ive read on other websites that switching to FMIC will perpetually give you a code 54 as the pump is removed and you have to add 2 resistors, great write up on it in fact on another website but nothing on getting rid of a code 54 that doesnt want to go despite an adequate level and a working pump.

I imagine its the sensor but i want to sell the car and selling it with an engine management light on doesnt look good. I can bridge the sensor but i`d much prefer to just get rid of it.

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Find someone on eBay who is breaking a gt4 and get a sensor off them if you can i'm not 100% how much they are new. Why you getting rid of it, it's a great car.

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Find someone on ebay who is breaking a gt4 and get a sensor off them if you can i'm not 100% how much they are new. Why you getting rid of it, it's a great car.

It is a great car, agreed but looking at getting an rs6, the C5 version V8 twin turbo, its had a new toyota engine fitted not long ago at a cost of £7000, gone 147,000km in total but a lot less on the new engine, know anyone that might be interested. its been run as a second car therefore very little mileage on new engine but 3 year warranty just finished.

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Sounds like a good deal pity the warranty has run out otherwise i think it would have been snapped up straight away, might still be. Yeh but an RS6 is just too easy its made to be stupidly fast where as the gt4 is fast with loads of modifications available to it, much more fun. I don't think i know anyone who wants one, you should put it on the for sale section on this site maybe even put it on the gt4oc.net aswell.

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Sounds like a good deal pity the warranty has run out otherwise i think it would have been snapped up straight away, might still be. Yeh but an RS6 is just too easy its made to be stupidly fast where as the gt4 is fast with loads of modifications available to it, much more fun. I don't think i know anyone who wants one, you should put it on the for sale section on this site maybe even put it on the gt4oc.net aswell.

agree , i just think now 5 years into owning the car and having sat in friends cars that i can go just as quickly, more economically and in better comfort. I have a bond though with the car so it will be difficult to give up but it has to be forced induction and 4 wheel drive. Dont like scoobies or the evo`s for their every 5000 mile servicing. Would love a new skyline but budget talks.

Thanks for advice, will list on gt4oc.net, but its not letting me join

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gt4oc.net you do have to pay to be a full member but when you join it should give you a month free trial without having to pay, thats what it used to be anyway be crap if they have changed it.

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gt4oc.net you do have to pay to be a full member but when you join it should give you a month free trial without having to pay, thats what it used to be anyway be crap if they have changed it.

yep, previously a member, i can log in but it wont allow me to renew, very frustrating.

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create a new screen name and it should work.

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You should see the coolant being sucked down when you press the accelarator, if the pump is working ;)

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You should see the coolant being sucked down when you press the accelarator, if the pump is working ;)

i see bubbles, thats the only way i can describe it. The only other thing is topping up the level but when is enough enough etc

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If you use the throttle cable as mentioned above or get someone else to rev the car the coolant should be pulled (sucked) down in to the chargecooler core. Its quite possible that you do have a faulty pump if the fluid is not being drawn down.

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