Avensis T3-s 1.8vvti 03 Plate - Blowing Low Beam Bulbs

[AlexH77]

My avensis has started goin thru headlamp bulbs at a silly rate during the last month or so. longest i have had one last is 2 weeks and shortest is 20mins.

Anyone any ideas why ?

12.2V engine off and 14.2V with engine running

[cmia]

how are the connectors,

any condensation ?

[Q.S.]

My avensis has started goin thru headlamp bulbs at a silly rate during the last month or so. longest i have had one last is 2 weeks and shortest is 20mins.

Anyone any ideas why ?

12.2V engine off and 14.2V with engine running

Keep your fingers off the glass when fitting them, will cause premature blow if you don't.

[AlexH77]

No condensation in unit

Connectors look fine, no rust and wires are in good condition

Have NEVER touched the blub glass as i know this causes problems

[Q.S.]

No condensation in unit

Connectors look fine, no rust and wires are in good condition

Have NEVER touched the blub glass as i know this causes problems

Can only suggest that they are possibly substandard bulbs then?

Biggest cause of premature bulb failure is vibration (usually) but 20 minutes ? Are the filaments burnt out or broken? Is the glass 'smoked' after failure or still clear? Have you checked the voltage at the Battery or at the bulbs?

[AlexH77]

No condensation in unit

Connectors look fine, no rust and wires are in good condition

Have NEVER touched the blub glass as i know this causes problems

Can only suggest that they are possibly substandard bulbs then?

Biggest cause of premature bulb failure is vibration (usually) but 20 minutes ? Are the filaments burnt out or broken? Is the glass 'smoked' after failure or still clear? Have you checked the voltage at the Battery or at the bulbs?

bulbs have been a variety of brands from different shops.

Glass is still clear and you are hard pressed to see anything wrong with the filament.

Voltage was checked by removing the connector from the bulb and putting the multimeter on.

[cmia]

when the lights are on...

does the dim ... and then go up in light ?

[MW0ELC]

OK on the volts, do the " dead " bulbs check out for continuity ? Is there a circuit on the multimeter from the "dead " bulb ? What about voltage on the connector when under load ? How about the earth from the bulb / connector ? I had problems with a reversing light, bulb was fine, good voltage at the connector, but when the bulb was put under load, a connector further back in the loom went high resistance and effectively, it would appear to be dead. Cleaned all connectors as for back as I could and it was sorted. Strange stuff this electrikery........

[Q.S.]

No condensation in unit

Connectors look fine, no rust and wires are in good condition

Have NEVER touched the blub glass as i know this causes problems

Can only suggest that they are possibly substandard bulbs then?

Biggest cause of premature bulb failure is vibration (usually) but 20 minutes ? Are the filaments burnt out or broken? Is the glass 'smoked' after failure or still clear? Have you checked the voltage at the Battery or at the bulbs?

bulbs have been a variety of brands from different shops.

Glass is still clear and you are hard pressed to see anything wrong with the filament.

Voltage was checked by removing the connector from the bulb and putting the multimeter on.

Check the voltage accross the terminals with a good bulb in, i.e. under load.

As MWOELC says, it could be a connection corrosion problem and not the bulbs at all, check continuity of the bulb filaments with the ohms facility to make sure they are actually blown.

P.S forgot to say, if bulbs are ok and voltage dissapears under load, check the relay output, could be a high resistance in the relay internal contacts.