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Posted

It was 3 am, tea supplies were drained to use as lubrication to fit a water hose to the thermostat housing, and it was -2 degrees in the garage of KP...

But the engine was lowered and fitted none the less! With only 2 bolts missing and the rear most engine mount done away with because it was never going to go in seeing as its threads were not properly secured. I will have to touch up the paint that I did because it has scraped off from the clattering and banging and I have one very bruised index finger because I was the only one handling the engine while my dad operated the crane. :lol:

She will now be towed to the garage to get the timing belt fitted, cam covers resprayed and fitted along with new CV Boots, all of which I will do when I can make it over there. After this, she will have new rear struts, new sunroof, resprayed engine bay and maybe windscreen. I will tow it back to my new house in wolverton and I will be a witness of the first start! :D

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Posted

good progress made.

4A-GE timing belts aren't that hard to fit TBH, as you have the manual why not have a bash. all that is needed is slacken the adjuster and pull against the spring, lock off. then align the timing marks. fit belt ensuring that it is tight opposite side to the tensioner release the tensioner and re tighten. turn engine through two full turns of the crank and recheck/ adjust timing marks. simples.

just thinking it will give you experience and save you some cash and hassle.

I'm here if you need help ;)

Posted
good progress made.

4A-GE timing belts aren't that hard to fit TBH, as you have the manual why not have a bash. all that is needed is slacken the adjuster and pull against the spring, lock off. then align the timing marks. fit belt ensuring that it is tight opposite side to the tensioner release the tensioner and re tighten. turn engine through two full turns of the crank and recheck/ adjust timing marks. simples.

just thinking it will give you experience and save you some cash and hassle.

I'm here if you need help ;)

Thanks mate but the problem with the belt is that I cannot remove the crank pulley because it is torqued down so heavily! I will get it sorted at the garage as a favour from the people I worked with.

I have the cams and the crank set at TDC ready for it to be done. What I do want to ask though, is it easier to drop the engine out from underneath the car and then put it back that way, or should I just stick with lifting it out and lowering it in?

Thanks for all the help mate. :)

Posted

Its really coming on nicely!

keep us updated over the coming weeks

Posted

Looking good Mr Jones :lol:

bet you cant wait to fire her up!!! :thumbsup:


Posted

ah i see didnt realise that :blush:

Posted

Hi all,

The GTi is now totally out of my hands for a month or two! :D

She has been towed to the garage today to have the rear suspension towers replaced and the engine bay resprayed. A few other bits will be done too like the timing belt and the rest of the service parts. But once that is all done she will be towed back home, where the exhaust will be fitted and the motor will be started for the first time!! :D

I will only be able to update with what the garage tells me.

Posted

The suspension Bush-Kit has also been delivered today. £300 from Fensport with a 10% discount for it being a whole kit. They're red and should look pretty nice under the car should anyone chose to look there! :)

I'm really pleased with how this is going, I will say to anyone who likes cars and is thinking of doing this; No matter how draining it can get, of energy and money, it always feels s worth it once you see the improvement! You have to put all you have into it to get what you want, but my god it feels good once you get there! :yes:

;)

Posted

might be worth seeing if there are any powder coating companies around you. i got 4 strut cases and springs all hubs and lower arms shotblasted and powder coated for £120. really adds to the look underneath and adds a bit of protection.

Posted

Yeh there was and my dad was going to buy it, the guy said the price was too low, not seeing that his debts would be handled too. He waited too long, asked to sell it to him again but dad said no because the debts were too big! :lol: His loss I guess.

Maybe I should drop it so low you can't see under it?.... :naughty::lol:

Posted

Welding will begin next week, depending upon snow conditions... :D

I went looking through old threads and remembered something another member said;

If you get that car on the road in 4yrs i will buy you a beer for your efforts and you will be able to drink it legally

I can taste it now CC :P :lol: ;)

Posted
Welding will begin next week, depending upon snow conditions... :D

I went looking through old threads and remembered something another member said;

If you get that car on the road in 4yrs i will buy you a beer for your efforts and you will be able to drink it legally

I can taste it now CC :P :lol: ;)

Yeah i remember that ..... ;)

Posted
Welding will begin next week, depending upon snow conditions... :D

I went looking through old threads and remembered something another member said;

If you get that car on the road in 4yrs i will buy you a beer for your efforts and you will be able to drink it legally

I can taste it now CC :P :lol: ;)

Yeah i remember that ..... ;)

Good! I have a witness! :lol: :D

Posted
Welding will begin next week, depending upon snow conditions... :D

I went looking through old threads and remembered something another member said;

If you get that car on the road in 4yrs i will buy you a beer for your efforts and you will be able to drink it legally

I can taste it now CC :P :lol: ;)

Yeah i remember that ..... ;)

Good! I have a witness! :lol: :D

Yeah so do i :thumbsup:


  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I'm getting closer to first start.

All I need to order is the Water-Pump O-Ring, which I will get from a universal kit, and the water system gaskets that clamp between the two junctions that go on the Head. She is almost ready to have the engine back out for the bay respray, and while it is resprayed I will sort out the timing belt, gaskets and electrics.

I'll then lower it back in, hook it up and give the key a twist to see what happens.

Now, I have never done a first start before an want to memorise the procedure because I am a perfectionist like that. Can anyone tell me what to do on first start?

This is assuming that all is connected, oil and water in the system. How many people will I need there? I assume that I will need one there on the key to cut it of if something goes wrong, another to video ;) and a couple of others to just check that nothing is exploding or setting alight! :lol:

I'll keep this updated when I finally start to deal with the car again, it's sad not having it in my garage any more! :(

Posted

looking really good KP, i think its best if you got a couple of people with you on starting her up, jus to make sure theirs no leaks or owt.

good work and keep us posted. :thumbsup:

Posted

Ok thank-you mate.

I am thinking of getting an Oil-Catch-Tank, how exactly do you fit them? Where do they connect to and with what?

Posted

Looking forward to mid-summer fella and your finished GTi.....

Shame your not old enough to drive it yet .....

Posted

I can't wait for summer, its just going to be so good. I will try and get a job at the place where I worked for work-experience. They were awesome guys and I can still work on getting her finished if there is nothing else to do. :D

I will keep tinkering and fettling until I can drive her. ;)

I have booked monday on the week after next to work on the GTi as well as the friday after that. On the Monday, I will get the engine back out, fit the timing belt, clean and spray the bay and finally spray and fit the cam covers. On the Friday I will lower the engine back in and start to hook it back up, most likely fitting the exhaust at the same time. Once that is all done, I will start her up and see how it all goes. :Jumpy:

I'm going to get some measurements for the switch panel and then get an oil catch tank too. :)

It's all falling into place...

Posted

Last few water gaskets are on order, and I have made a list of the things I need to bring to the garage to get her ready for running.

Hopefully, I'll get a quick ride just on their land, to see how that clutch is! :naughty:

But there is still alot to do, so first start may be postponed if I don't get the help needed....

But the engine bay will definitely have been resprayed to I'm not too bothered if I don't get her going just yet. :)

Posted

Okay, a lot of progress was made today, and it has left me very knackered but very pleased! :D

The water gaskets have been delivered tonight along with the Auxiliary Timing-Belts and a new Thermostat. They will be fitted on wednesday.

It took me 2 minutes, yes 2, to get the engine unbolted and lifted out, I have successfully found the knack to getting it out! :yahoo::lol:

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I managed to fit the timing belt and timing end covers too:

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When I had sorted the engine out with the timing belts, I began preparing the engine bay for the respray, and I have finished doing that which means it will be sprayed tomorrow. :D I also managed yo fit the Fuel Filter, which was a surprisingly hard task to complete after 21 years of grime had built up! :lol:

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Fitting the Fuel-Filter:

You will need;

*17mm spanner (needs to be as large as possible to get the most leverage, whilst also being able to fit into the engine bay)

*14mm spanner (Same as the 17mm)

*Your new Fuel-Filter

*10mm socket+wrench (Preferably a hex-head, because the bolt can get weak after being exposed to all the elements. Mine had one bolt sheer off, which I will explain how to fix later.)

1. First, you will need to remove your old fuel filter. Use the 14mm spanner to undo the union bolt that sits on top of the Fuel-Filter (Filter located at the bottom right of the engine bay on the bulk-head), making sure to keep the bolt clean, and to ensure the fuel-line doesn't get contaminated! Also take notice of the little gasket that sits between that bolt and the top of the filter, because you will need to replace it with the gaskets supplied. This applies to the Mikayo Fuel filter, any other kit may not include these gaskets

2. Hook the 17mm spanner onto the underside of the Fuel-Filter, so that you can hold the filter in place with it. Then hook the 14mm spanner to the nut just below the position of the 17mm spanner.

3. Hold the 17mm spanner, and twist the 14mm spanner clockwise until it just 'slips' at which point you can usually remove both spanners and undo it by hand.

4. Use the 10mm socket - you may need a small extension-bar - to undo the two bolts that hold the filter to the black bracket attached to the Bulk-Head.

5. Lift the filter away, being careful not to drop petrol all over your engine bay.

I will be going back into the garage on wednesday after I have done enough of my GCSE course-work, to fit the gaskets, thermostat and Auxiliary Timing-Belts. I also need to respray the cam covers, which will sort out the whole look of the engine. Again I have changed my mind in regards to the colour of the cam covers, and I will be spraying them in white too. :)

6. If they are supplied, place a new gasket over the top of the threaded-nut on the metal fuel-line.

7. Slot the new Fuel-Filter on top of the nut and tighten it as much as you can by hand. Then tighten using the spanners, the 17mm on the bottom of the filter itself, and the 14mm to tighten the nut. You will need to tighten going anti-clockwise, because you are doing it 'upside-down', in effect.

8. Bolt the new filter back onto the black bracket, with the two 10mm bolts.

9. Place another new gasket (if supplied) onto the top of the Fuel Filter, and then tighten the union bolt down onto that. (There may be a rubber stopper on top of the filter, just remove it, it only keeps dirt out while it isn't fitted.)

When tightening, I didn't use torque settings because it it pretty easy to tell whether or not it is tight enough. Just remember that it needs to be tight enough to seal the fuel in. It isn't very hard. :)

If anyone wants any help with regards to the processes completed to get to this stage with the engine, then feel free to ask here or via PM. I'd be happy to help. ;)

Any thoughts are welcome. :)

Posted

A large spanner has successfully been thrown into the works, and it has ground it to a halt.

I need front and rear engine mounts, which have been priced at £180.15....... :ffs: not good, because I will have to put the new headlamps off for a while. :censor:

At this point I am happy to say that donations are welcome....

:crybaby:

Posted

Picked up a pair of second-hand engine mounts for £60 and got the rear mount bracket bolts for £13.

£75 for everything, some stuff used, as opposed to £180 for mounts and no bolts = Me being very pleased and feeling more relaxed. It's back on schedule and I should have the motor back in and going soon enough. :D

Posted

Last bolt has now been sourced.

Thanks ;)

Posted

whoohoo.

glad its on its way again. if you are any bolts short drop me a pm with thread size and length and ill have a look through my bolt box (i have a lot of spares for some reason?) :lol:

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