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Posted
Good old summer holidays, maybe you could finish it, watch out for bed time

lol, I should have the engine back in the car and running by the end of this year, but I need brakes and suspension so will be off the road for a year or so yet.

  • 3 weeks later...
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  • KPARRIS-JONES

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  • dawesy

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  • PaulinhoT

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Posted

Hi all,

I just wanted to say that I have now got front and rear Black Diamond Combi discs on order from Europerformance, and will be buying the calipers later om during the year.

The discs are the size of the late-spec cars' because I wanted to get maximum stopping power. I was thinking of getting redstuff pads for the front, and greenstuff pads for the back.

The removal of the engine will be a tight squeeze, but I think that I'll manage to get it ou depending on how much my art coarswork intrudes upon my time.

Have any other GTi owners had experiance of BD Combis on their GTi? If so, were you pleased with them?

Posted

BD Combi's have been delivered! :yahoo:

The front discs are beastly, and the rear discs are looking mean.

The fact that they are black just adds to the exitement, very mean looking. All that's left to do is get front calipers and fit the brake line kit, then my brake system will be very complete!!!

I do have one problem because my exhaust down-pipe bolts are so rusted that you can barely see that they are there. So, does anyone know where I can get a decent down-pipe for £80-100? Also, I need gaskets and sealant for it along with bolts to fit the new downpipe.

Does anyone know where I can get these things?

maxandnewbrakes008.jpg

maxandnewbrakes010.jpg

maxandnewbrakes011.jpg

maxandnewbrakes012.jpg

Can't tell you how extremely pleased I am with these!!!

Posted

i want your brakes :lol:

what pads you going for?

Posted
i want your brakes :lol:

what pads you going for?

Cheers, :D

I'm going to get Redstuff at the front and Greenstuff at the back so that Greenstuff gives me cold braking performance and Redstuff gives me hot braking performance. I'll be getting them soon enough. :)

As a general note, I have removed the exhaust system and will be offering up the backbox with pics..... and it turns out the down-pipe bolts are fine. But I do still need new gaskets which shouldn't cost too much.

I got a quote for £138 for a whole-car gasket kit which I thought was very good. :D


Posted

Drive shaft on the near-side has almost been disconnected, and the back-box has been offered up with extreme difficulty!

To get the new back box on, we had to remove the bracket which had VERY stiff bolts, remove the little arm that was attached to that bracket and put it back on. We then hit problems with the heat shield and the bumper so had to remove the heat-shield and will cut bumper another time.

exhaustofferingupandprogress005.jpg

exhaustofferingupandprogress007.jpg

I still have my standard box which is in good nick if anybody wants it, but it has lost its tail-pipe trims.

exhaustofferingupandprogress002.jpg

exhaustofferingupandprogress003.jpg

Posted

Drive shafts are all disconnected, clutch line moved out of the way, loom moved, power-steering drained, exhaust removed and now finally.

I can say to all my friends here at TOC, that my 4A-GE is ready to come out!!!

I will keep all updated, although it does seem that I am the only one that reads this thread...... :lol:

Moving the Clutch Line:

It was simpler than I thought, and all I had to do was undo 3 or 4 10-12mm bolts that held it onto the gearbox. I then lifted it out of the way and placed it to rest on the wind shield.

The clutch line is metal and will cease to work if bent out of shape, so be careful. Also, DO NOT push in the clutch pedal otherwise the piston in the clutch cylinder will pop out and fluid will fly everywhere.

Removing the Drive Shafts:

Haynes told me to remove the shafts from the wheels, when all you have to do (as previously stated by Dawesy) is undo the two nuts and one [per suspension arm] and pull the wheel outwards. The drive shafts will then slide out of the gearbox and hang down.

Refitting however requires two people, one to hold the suspension arm down, and the other to position the wheel to have the threads slot back into the slots on the suspension arm. You will both need to be communicative, the person pulling the arm down needs to be the eyes of the person positioning the wheel.

When disconnected, the drive shafts will hang down and will snag if you move the car too quickly, so make sure that you have someone alongside the car adjusting them as its pushed along. To keep the shaft ends safe, I put bags over them and tied them with cable ties, so that the grease didn't go everywhere and get contaminated. Make sure you do the same.

Posted

Topman. :thumbsup:

Posted

Keep it going :thumbsup:

Posted

Cheers :)

Posted

Give up. you're doing a crap job.

Give the car to me, you know you want to... ;)

Seriously though, keep up the good work :D

Posted
Give up. you're doing a crap job.

Give the car to me, you know you want to... ;)

Seriously though, keep up the good work :D

Hah lol,

I was getting a bit miffed at the lack of replies :rolleyes: (yes my expectations are too high but at least I recognise that fact) :) , I agree with you though. I have sheered countless bolts, broken an electrical connection and many more silly things......... But then again, I don't see many other 15 year olds doing this stuff ;)

Thanks for the votes of confidence everyone. :D

And thanks,

Posted

Hah lol,

But then again, I don't see many other 15 year olds doing this stuff ;)

Thanks for the votes of confidence everyone. :D

Im a year younger, but mine has not gone to the exstent of the engine being pulled out. must say you have balls of steel to do something like that bro ;)

Keep up the GREAT work, it will be all worth it in the end :D

Posted

Hah lol,

But then again, I don't see many other 15 year olds doing this stuff ;)

Thanks for the votes of confidence everyone. :D

Im a year younger, but mine has not gone to the exstent of the engine being pulled out. must say you have balls of steel to do something like that bro ;)

Keep up the GREAT work, it will be all worth it in the end :D

Thanks a lot.

You are the only other 14/15 that I know is working on a car the way I do, you do brilliantly with the body-work and stuff. I hope that my work-experiance has trained me up enough to enable me to do a good job of the body on my GTi.

Thanks for the balls of steel comment aswell :lol: I'm terrified of the taking the engine apart. But after examining the spark-plugs, I have deduced that my engine is working brilliantly. Lets hope that it stays that way......


Posted

Nice work mate......................now get that engine out!! :D

Posted

Hah lol,

But then again, I don't see many other 15 year olds doing this stuff ;)

Thanks for the votes of confidence everyone. :D

Im a year younger, but mine has not gone to the exstent of the engine being pulled out. must say you have balls of steel to do something like that bro ;)

Keep up the GREAT work, it will be all worth it in the end :D

Thanks a lot.

You are the only other 14/15 that I know is working on a car the way I do, you do brilliantly with the body-work and stuff. I hope that my work-experiance has trained me up enough to enable me to do a good job of the body on my GTi.

Thanks for the balls of steel comment aswell :lol: I'm terrified of the taking the engine apart. But after examining the spark-plugs, I have deduced that my engine is working brilliantly. Lets hope that it stays that way......

If you need any help on body work give me a call bro.

Posted
:thumbsup:
Posted

Engine hoist has arrived!!!

We have set up the hoist and chained up the engine, after buying our own bloody chains!!! :ffs: But we will lift engine out soon today.

hoistsetup021.jpg

Hydraulic tube

hoistsetup020.jpg

Me looking stupid

hoistsetup019.jpg

Me looking stupid and fat

hoistsetup018.jpg

Engine hooked up

hoistsetup017.jpg

Davis being a huge help

I would like to thank Davis and Lee for their help and advice, and I would like to thank the people here at TOC for their advice and help. ;)

Posted

Engine is being a knob and isnt coming out just yet. We need more strength to manouvre it down and upwards etc. Crane seems to have run out of height which isnt good at all!.

Some advice on positioning would prove affective.

Posted

ENGINE IS NOW OUT!!! Not that anyone reads this thread to know that but still, here is a piccie;

engineisnowout001-1.jpg

Posted

Now whatever happens dont loose that engine :lol: ;)

Posted

been doing that car since Easter whats taking you so long :lol: , looking good mate ;)

Posted
been doing that car since Easter whats taking you so long :lol: , looking good mate ;)

Lack of money and space! :lol: Also I have had to take the time to recruit my friends and build them up to a good level and understanding of engines. Davis is there, and Dean is hench.

More update pics, after removing the engine, we got to work on making it lighter to make moving it to the work-bench much easier. We have removed the alternator, power-steering, water junctions and pipes, intake manifold and then the tensioner pulley which took a few hours. We then span the engine to TDC by hand which pancaked Davis' finger quite nastily, but he'll live.

Here are some pics;

enginesuspendedandworkcommences009.jpg

A hammer to hit things with. And people....

enginesuspendedandworkcommences008.jpg

Engine parts now removed for ease of manouvreing

enginesuspendedandworkcommences007.jpg

Intake Manifold and Alternator

enginesuspendedandworkcommences002.jpg

Posted

I've finally managed to drain the gear-box. I had to go and get a 24mm hex-head socket because the multi-sockets were doming the head.

My dad and I are going to remove the gear-box now and move it onto the work-bench, swiftly followed by the block. :)

I have also just purchased a micrometer set, clearance measuring thingy-jig and a gear puller. I was suprised to find that the engine is easy to rotate by hand on the crank pulley.

Posted

what!? rotate ALL the way? wheres your compression! HAHAHA

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