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Posted

The compression can be felt. It gets stiffer at certain intervals as you turn.

The gearbox is now off and was quite hard to remove but was relatively easy to put onto the work-bench.

The clutch was totalled and was eating away at the clutch cover, luckily I have my competition clutch and cover at hand then isn't it? :lol:

After stripping down all ancillaries and the 'box, the engine is still to heavy for me to carry with my dad. So it looks like we will have to get somone to replace me for the heavy lifting. :(

After I have the engine sitting on the bench, I will be able to remove the flywheel and pulleys, which will allow me to remove the head and really get on with this overhaul! :yahoo:


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  • KPARRIS-JONES

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  • dawesy

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Posted Images

Posted

That Lump Hammer looks nice and Subtle!!!!

Posted

well done dude. i always check how your doing, might not post that much.

make sure you have lots of tubs/bags to put the nuts and bolts in (labelled) and take lots of pictures, this will help you when it comes to reassembly.

if you think your engine and box is heavy you should try a 3S-GTE lol.

good luck with the rest of it.

Posted

Haha, yeh the lump hammer was needed for gearbox removal. Lots of noise and clanging which drove the neighbours absoloutly nuts. (Always a sign that you're doing well)

Thanks Dawesy, and I have been putting everything in labelled bags, some with photos. ;) I have a huge parts box to put all the bits in so it's ok and I also have assigned a wall in the garage to be the 'note' wall. NOTE 1; Retaining bolt to water junction fell between supporting tyres (Above gearbox) I also write the date that the note was written so that I know whats what. :lol:

I nearly cacked myself trying to lift that motor, so I think I'll leave the 3SGTE lifting to you, no matter how much I want one! :( :lol: I don't want to imagine how heavy my dads V6 will be, especially seeing as the 4A-GE is supposed to be a relatively light 1600!

Oh, I have also managed to secure some late spec calipers to wrap around my new discs. I'll be purchasing them in a few months.

So the interior is sorted, the brake system is sorted and soon the engine will be. All thats left is the body-work and respray! :yahoo:

Posted

Hello again to all,

I have managed to remove the Flywheel which isn't exactly a Fidanza let me tell you now! And yes I did follow the loosening order. :lol:

I just want to make the engine light enough to lift onto the bench, but theres nothing to remove now! :o :lol:

Removing the Flywheel:

To remove the flywheel, I had the engine sitting on the work-bench, propped up with wooden blocks. For safety, I had one friend holding the block firmly in place, and another with their hands under the Flywheel to make sure it didn't fall off the bench. I used a small stubby flat-head screwdriver to jam the teeth of the flywheel, making sure that it wouldn't spin as I unbolted it. Again, like with all bolts on the car, I oiled them with 3-in-1 upon removal to keep them preserved inside the bag.

Keep the Flywheel and its bolts in a secure, cable tied bag (the bolts in their own little bag) and store it where there isn't much movement of things that could damage it.

NEVER pick it up with just the top of the bag, it could either slip from your hands, or the teeth will cut it and the Flywheel will fall out. Hold it with one hand at the top, and one cradling the Flywheel.


Posted

Hi all,

I have removed the head and have inspected the cylinders and luckily, they appear to be nothing short of perfect with no deformations or grooves.

The head is yet to be thoroughly inspected but seems to be fine from what I have seen thus far.

BUT, my cam bearings need to be replaced right away and I am having considerable trouble removing the split collets that hold the valve spring retainers in place. How is it that I remove these? Haynes only says 'After removing the split collets, extract the valve spring retainer.... which isnt helpful at all. :(

All help is appreciated.

A few things about removing the Head:

  • You will need a thin socket and a socket size converter
  • You will need someone to hold the block securely (Assuming the engine is on the work bench)

Make sure that when you remove the head studs and washers (in the correct order) you punch them through a piece of labelled card. With the timing end clearly marked out, and the bolt No.# marked too. Again, keep these in a safe place to avoid warping and damage.

Posted

Another update for everyone;

I have taken some photos of the block and head, and am concerned about the condition of the pistons. I don't know exactly what I'm looking for, so I have posted some pictures of the piston heads.

I have also counted up the things that I have purchased so far and can say that I have aquired 55% of the parts needed for completion of the project, and have put in just over 1.6k B)

Headcomingoff013.jpg

The Pistons look ok to me, but I'd like some confirmation.

Headcomingoff011.jpg

Headcomingoff012.jpg

I have been thinking of purchasing items such as uprated Head Bolt kits, and Flywheel bolt kits etc. If I do so, will I have to declare them on the insurance? My reasoning is that they strengthen the engine but do not provide it with more power.

Posted

oh my. nice pistons! :blink:

Posted

technicaly yes youd should declare them, but as any insurance assesor will not take apart the car i wouldnt bother.

pistons look ok from the pics a little carbon build up but nothing serious.

how far are you going with the rebuild?

Posted (edited)
technicaly yes youd should declare them, but as any insurance assesor will not take apart the car i wouldnt bother.

pistons look ok from the pics a little carbon build up but nothing serious.

how far are you going with the rebuild?

Ok thanks about the insurance thing.

As for the rebuild, I'm going the whole 9 yards mate. Entire head and block will be overhauled and the block and gearbox resprayed with hight temp paint.

Do I need to get the head-to-block mating surfaces shiny and smooth? It's just the gasket seems to have left some sort of residue.

How do you reccomend I get rid of the carbon build up after the removal of pistons?

-------------------------------------------------------

I eventually decided not to remove the pistons etc as the lower engine was running beautifully and it was an awful lot of money and time just for the experience.

Edited by KPARRIS-JONES
Posted

very carefully lol.

the cylinders will need re-honing if you are replacing the rings (best done at an engineers)

the gasket material can be removed carefully with a stanley blade but from the block only, try not to dig in. then some fine grade emery cloth wrapped over a machined straight edge (width of the block) using wd-40 as a lube should give a good surface.

the head i would get skimmed at an engineers, just ask them to remove the minimum needed to clean and level the head.

pistons you can use a small scraper and a wire brush, just try not to leave dig marks in the surface. for the ring grooves use a broken pitston ring (from the relevent groove to clean.

Posted

O.k. cool mate. Thanks.

I have decided that I won't touch the bottom end because it was perfect to begin with, and I'd rather not run the risk of damaging anything unecesseraly.

I think the overhaul will go as far as the head, seeing as that is the only bit in need of some TLC.

Posted

Hello again,

I have made no extra progress to report, but I do want know what would be the best rim size for my GTi-16.

I asked this a while back but couldnt find the thread because it was a slightly off-topic question as I remember.

I saw some Inovit ST VI's in white that took my fancy. I was wondering if they would fit my car and would they fill the arches well enough or woudl I be better off getting some 17''s? Only problem is, I dont want to be kerbing them on low kerbs all the time, I don't want to pay big money for new tyres every time they need replacing and I don't want to have a completely ruined ride because of coilovers and large rims.

Thanks for advice.

Posted

get 16" rota's

always look nice on a jap car.


Posted
get 16" rota's

always look nice on a jap car.

Thats what I was thinking of. I saw some white ROTA's with a red pinstriped lip which I thought would look the muts.

But I need to know whether or not they'd fit, what the widest rim that I can get for my rolla?

Posted
get 16" rota's

always look nice on a jap car.

Thats what I was thinking of. I saw some white ROTA's with a red pinstriped lip which I thought would look the muts.

But I need to know whether or not they'd fit, what the widest rim that I can get for my rolla?

can get them as wide as you like man.

providing you have arch work done ;), think 8's would be in line with the arch, well thats is what my fronts were like, but i ran a slight strech on the tyre.

Are you talking aboout the multispokes rota's?

Posted
get 16" rota's

always look nice on a jap car.

Thats what I was thinking of. I saw some white ROTA's with a red pinstriped lip which I thought would look the muts.

But I need to know whether or not they'd fit, what the widest rim that I can get for my rolla?

can get them as wide as you like man.

providing you have arch work done ;), think 8's would be in line with the arch, well thats is what my fronts were like, but i ran a slight strech on the tyre.

Are you talking aboout the multispokes rota's?

Yeh I thought Multi-Spokes would be nice on a GTi.

I was going to get very fat tyres at the back.

Posted
get 16" rota's

always look nice on a jap car.

Thats what I was thinking of. I saw some white ROTA's with a red pinstriped lip which I thought would look the muts.

But I need to know whether or not they'd fit, what the widest rim that I can get for my rolla?

can get them as wide as you like man.

providing you have arch work done ;), think 8's would be in line with the arch, well thats is what my fronts were like, but i ran a slight strech on the tyre.

Are you talking aboout the multispokes rota's?

Yeh I thought Multi-Spokes would be nice on a GTi.

I was going to get very fat tyres at the back.

nice B) ;)

Posted

17" will fit but you will need the rear arch rolling, 16" are much better IMO, if you like multi spoke then the ultraleggera look the mutts but not that cheap

Posted
17" will fit but you will need the rear arch rolling, 16" are much better IMO, if you like multi spoke then the ultraleggera look the mutts but not that cheap

O.k. mate thanks. I'll stick with ROTA's as they are priced up as it is.

cheers

Posted

what about Volks TE 35 in white?

Posted

They look sweet. How much are they? :g:

Posted
They look sweet. How much are they? :g:

LOL ive got some for sale....................... but its not cheap was going to put them on my one but not keeping it now there 16x7 2x in white and 2x in bronze brand new still in the box!

would cost you about £1,900 now with the exchange rate :( but iam selling mine for £1,600 bargin !!! :lol:

cost alot but looks the dogs nuts

Posted
They look sweet. How much are they? :g:

LOL ive got some for sale....................... but its not cheap was going to put them on my one but not keeping it now there 16x7 2x in white and 2x in bronze brand new still in the box!

would cost you about £1,900 now with the exchange rate :( but iam selling mine for £1,600 bargin !!! :lol:

cost alot but looks the dogs nuts

damn thats alot!

still i love them :lol:

Posted
They look sweet. How much are they? :g:

LOL ive got some for sale....................... but its not cheap was going to put them on my one but not keeping it now there 16x7 2x in white and 2x in bronze brand new still in the box!

would cost you about £1,900 now with the exchange rate :( but iam selling mine for £1,600 bargin !!! :lol:

cost alot but looks the dogs nuts

damn thats alot!

still i love them :lol:

Even though that is a good price, I can't afford them.

My plan is to recondition my rims and buy new ones, but still use my standard rims until I'm comfortable with parking. I'll do this until I've saved enough for tyres and then I'll fit the rims on for summer. Then my standard rims will be for winter. :D

I'll stay with ROTA's.

Another update though;

I have removed the rear discs that has fused to the pads and now I need new pads. I checked online for some redstuff pads for the front but EBC recommend that I use ONLY redstuff all around, as opposed to red at the front and green at the back.

Is it o.k. to use red at the front and green at the back. I cant find red for the front which is annoying. Can anyoen help?

Cheers

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