AE92 GTi-16 Progress Thread

[corolla_dude]

what happend! you got the doors yet?

[KPARRIS-JONES]

what happend! you got the doors yet?

:lol: No I haven't got the doors or panels yet but I should be picking them up soon enough. Maybe next week but who knows.

I'm getting the panels from Carz2.co.uk Havning to phone them up which is annoying!

[KPARRIS-JONES]

Just got panels delivered today!

Nearside wing and offside rear arch are fine, but the nearside rear arch has been badly dented and scratched at the front of the arch so that has to get sent back. :(

The offside front wing wasn't in stock, so they orderd from another supplier who gave me the front wing for a GL executive salloon, I got my dad to ring them up and they said that they will get back to us and all will be sorted out soon. I am a bit miffed at this, but the front wings are very similar and you can only tell them apart if you know what you're looking for. The side-light slots are different and there is a cut-line that runs above the arch on the GTi model.

But all-in-all I am quite happy with what I have so far.

I'll keep everyone updated as this situation progresses. B)

[KPARRIS-JONES]

It's been too long since I updated this (more than 5 minutes) so here goes;

I'm now fitting the nearside rear brake disc and pads, but have run into trouble with the caliper piston. It seems to be stuck and VERY hard to move. I had this with the other caliper too. It was very hard to push in the piston and turn clockwise with such a small amount of leverage provided by the pliers on the pistons indents. Despite this initial difficulty, once the piston starts to turn, it gets much easier to twist and push in!

Yet again, my old rear disc was rusted so badly that it was stuck to the hub. I had to grease it with WD40 and hit it gently with a hammer on opposite edges on the inner face to get it to come off. Copper grease did it some good!

Once the calliper piston begins to turn, it then becomes far easier to do the rest of it. It will turn roughly 8 times.

For some reason, my handbrake doesnt seem to work on either side of the car, could anyone shed some light on this for me? Thanks.

I'll have pictures put up later today.

[KPARRIS-JONES]

O.k. now got the disc and pads fitted after A LOT of faffing and calling in another man.

I tried to compress the piston with a large clamp, which proved unsuccessful because the clamp wasn't strong enough, making it snap and fly across the garage floor. So let that be a small tip for you. ;)

After this incident, I opened the resivoir cap, placing small bit of kitchen roll over it to make sure that the fluid didnt get contaminated. I then found out the problem with the handbrake, which was that the mechanism has seized in the closed position, which meant that it was applying pressure to the caliper piston. I sprayed this mechanism with WD40, undoing the cable bracket to eliminate the stress upon the cable, and then I lifted the mechanism with a flat-head screw-driver to open it. This ensured that there was no pressure in the system applied by the faulty hand-brake. To rotate and push in the piston, I used a flat-head screw driver and a hammer, placing the screw driver in the edge of the piston-notches and hitting it with the hammer at whatever angle proved easiest.

Eventually, the piston locked in place with the notch in the correct position for the pad to slot into. I swung the caliper over the pads, making sure that I kept them spaced correctly to allow them to fit over the disc, and then did up the bolt that allows it to swivel.

After this, I bolted the hand-brake bracket back up to the inner side of the caliper, asking my friend to hold the caliper in place while I did this. (Its much easier to do up this bolt when the caliper is detatched!)

I copper greased the hub, so that the disc slotted on with ease and without scratch damage. Next, I held the disc in place by putting two wheel nuts on diagonally across from eachother. This allowed me to secure the caliper easily without the disc moving at an angle. I tightened the caliper bolts to no specific torque setting (although you really should), other than "really damn tight".

Finally I tested that the disc and pads had suficient clearence to spin properly by getting my friend to spin the disc as fast as he could, and then I would apply the brakes. You will hear some scraping as the pad break-in coats rough edges are shaved down and the pads take their correct positions after the brakes are applied.

Every bolt that I unscrewed or screwed, I coated in 3-in-1 upon removal and re-fitting to make it much easier to put them back. The car was jacked up a little further behind the specified jacking-point (nearer the door) because the sill is strangely stronger there and it also enabled an axle stand to be slid under-neath the car. The wheel that was removed to access the brakes was placed under the car too, just in case the axle stand slipped or failed in any way.

So now I have the rear brake system sorted!!! Front next..... .....

[KPARRIS-JONES]

Even more progress made!

I managed to get the rear bumper removed after shearing 3 bolts and a tin of 3-in-1. I had to take off the exhaust which was very annoying because it is so time-consuming, but it does make removing the last bolts infinitely easier!

The near-side door glass and mechanisms have been stripped but I ran into some trouble with the lock. I didn't put enough pressure on the screw as I turned it which made it dome horribly! To get around this, I'm having the cut around the screw so that I can remove the lock and sort out the screw after the application of some brute force.

To keep the glass safe, I found some old carpet and rested the glass on it along with another bit of carpet/foam on top of that. I tied the two carpet peices to each-other by using a screw-driver to punch holes through it for the metal wire to tie up. This keeps the glass from getting shattered or scratched.

[KPARRIS-JONES]

Tonight, I found a half finished mini-mini-mini-project lying around, which was getting some of the engine hoses looking nice and shiny!

Here are some pictures;

The chrome is a kind of mesh that goes over dull grey hoses like mine to make them more eye-catching. There are two different widths of hose that I used, and they cost me around £15 each as I remember. They come as a two metre length.

To put them on, just slip it over the hose, trying to keep it from stretching too much because it will become frayed. You then just cut it with scissors and secure it at both ends with clips like the ones I used. It's really quite easy and takes maybe 15 minutes for three hoses like mine. :)

The clips came from the same website, which is really really good, and highly recommended by me. ;)

CarBuilderSolutions.co.uk

I decided to start painting the different metal lines that were lying around in the engine bay, now perfectly accessible due to the removal of the engine. :D

I painted the power-steering metal line that runs in front of the timing end in Hammerite smooth red. I also did this with the clutch line, and the vacuum lines on the intake-manifold. I then painted the clutch cylinder and strut nuts in matt black, which looks very nice I think. I should have some pictures tomorrow.

Please tell me what you think of the chrome covers, because it was a bit of a chance that I took to buy them. I really like them and think they're eye catching but I want to know what you think. :)

[dawesy]

looking good bud. covers dont look bad from the pics. coming along nicely

[KPARRIS-JONES]

Cheers mate,

More pics as promised; (they look orange, but they are a very nice red in the flesh)

Calipers

Clutch line and cylinder

The other hoses

Power Steering

Again, please tell me what you think. I am aiming to have a 3 quarters decent 'bay that I can be proud to show off at a cruise. I know that I can't go for show finish because the car will be driven, so it will get dirty, but I still want it to look pretty nice.

I also have some engine mounts getting a painting..... ;)

It was much easier to get the hoses back on than it was to take them off, and to anyone who is overhauling a 4A-GE or whatever;

Buy jubilee clips like these. They are SO much easier to tighten and remove than the original clips.

[KPARRIS-JONES]

Just restarted my painting frenzy!

More power-steering tubing is red and I have used the rest of the larger chrome mesh on the upper coolant hose. This is instead of Samco's because I cannot justify the cost when all I need them for is to look good and not for performance. :)

I have only got picture of the upper coolant hose at the moment, but I will have more up soon.

Tell me what you think.

[KPARRIS-JONES]

I've started to paint the block itself matt black because it started to build up rust and grime in certain areas, mainly around the Timing-End.

It was easy enough to just drill off the rust and grease, but did get a bit tougher when doing it near mating-surfaces and such. Very hard not to paint them accidentally!

I decided to paint the strut brace in Hammerite red also, because the other paint just didn't look right :)

Today I also painted a pulley-bracket and a part of the pulley. I am worried that I may be going O.T.T. with the paint. which is why I have done some things just in black to sort of even it out a bit. It's really satisfying, so don't be afraid to put a lick of paint on a dull component! ;)

Here are some more photos of things that I have painted;

Engine:

Pulley and Bracket:

Bonnet Release Catch:

Engine Mount:

Strut Brace:

Tell me what you think. ;)

[t-sport786]

I think your project is coming together quite well...its good to see someone whos doing a project on a whole car and this build thread you have going is great..so gotta say wel done mate and keep it up!!

[KPARRIS-JONES]

I think your project is coming together quite well...its good to see someone whos doing a project on a whole car and this build thread you have going is great..so gotta say wel done mate and keep it up!!

Thanks mate, its good to hear that. :)

[dawesy]

Looking good dude. a tip to stop paint getting on machined surfaces is cover with masking tape then trim it with a stanley blade, works a treat.

[KPARRIS-JONES]

Looking good dude. a tip to stop paint getting on machined surfaces is cover with masking tape then trim it with a stanley blade, works a treat.

Ok cheers mate. I've managed to keep the very clean anyway, but just required an unnaturally steady hand!

[AE_92]

Looking good are you not going to be stripping the block down and rebuilding it?

[KPARRIS-JONES]

Looking good are you not going to be stripping the block down and rebuilding it?

Thanks,

Nope, I have had many people advise against it because of lack of experience and because the engine itself was running perfectly. However, it needed a new head-gasket, engine mounts, clutch and a respray in the engine bay so I haven't removed it unnecessarily! Things like the CV boots need replacing and major bodywork to be done and having the engine out just made a few other things that much easier. :)

I may also go for some Cat-Cams if I can find enough pennies behind the sofa...

Why do you ask? :)

[AE_92]

Looking good are you not going to be stripping the block down and rebuilding it?

Thanks,

Nope, I have had many people advise against it because of lack of experience and because the engine itself was running perfectly. However, it needed a new head-gasket, engine mounts, clutch and a respray in the engine bay so I haven't removed it unnecessarily! Things like the CV boots need replacing and major bodywork to be done and having the engine out just made a few other things that much easier. :)

I may also go for some Cat-Cams if I can find enough pennies behind the sofa...

Why do you ask? :)

oh i see what duration cams you getting ?

[KPARRIS-JONES]

Looking good are you not going to be stripping the block down and rebuilding it?

Thanks,

Nope, I have had many people advise against it because of lack of experience and because the engine itself was running perfectly. However, it needed a new head-gasket, engine mounts, clutch and a respray in the engine bay so I haven't removed it unnecessarily! Things like the CV boots need replacing and major bodywork to be done and having the engine out just made a few other things that much easier. :)

I may also go for some Cat-Cams if I can find enough pennies behind the sofa...

Why do you ask? :)

oh i see what duration cams you getting ?

I was thinking 258 and 238. So that I dont need to get a new ECU. :)

I just had someone on the MW2 forum call my car POS, he drives a 1.1 corsa....

[corolla_dude]

Sweet progress dude, keep up the good work.

[KPARRIS-JONES]

Cheers mate,

I have some pictures of the painted gearbox now and will be posting others of bits that I put back on.

I'm really pleased with the progress so far. Engine will soon enough be back together!

Gearbox;

TVIS;

Engine;

Starter motor cover;

and I'll have some more later on. ;)

When painting things such as the gearbox, or block especially, make sure that you use a hight temperature paint. I have used hammerite matte black BBQ paint and it is good up to 600 degrees. You will need to degrease the surfaces that you paint one before painting, to make sure there is no oil or grease in the way to stop the paint keying.

Opinions?

[corolla_dude]

NICEEEEEE.

[KPARRIS-JONES]

I have even more pictures of progress!

I have painted the drive-shaft cover red, the gearbox mount plate red, the oil dipstick guide tube has been highly polished along with the water-pump. The water pipes are getting polished as I type and the water-pump pulley is being given some decent painting done to it. The water junction that sits on the gearbox has had a bit of a polish and some paint one parts. I have also put new stainless clips on the hoses instead of the old rusted clips.

I am thoroughly pleased with all the progress, so please give opinions;

Gearbox additions;

Water pump and pulley;

Starter motor;

Junction with new clips and polished dipstick;

When painting, be very careful to keep the paint off important mating surfaces and components. If you are not experienced in painting, I advise that you mask off surfaces and components. Also be aware of what you are painting, so that you use the right paint on the right place.

What do you think?

[corolla_dude]

Looks really smart bro. keep up with the good work.

[KPARRIS-JONES]

Cheers mate, I now have one more picture of the engine. My mate Dean has polished both of the water pipes that are at the back of the engine, and they have been bolted on.

I think they're really good and I hope they don't rust!

To polish the water pump and pipes etc. I used a big drill with a pointed aluminium brush tip to get rid of the initial grime and degradation, and I then used a small hand drill, that was originally designed for modelling. I used small sandpaper tips on it at first, and ten eventually used a small polishing pad to really get a decent shine. It took roughly 2 hours to get them all done.

Opinions?