AE92 GTi-16 Progress Thread

[dawesy]

yeah they are about 6nm IIRC basically nipped up. should be ok with one out though as you said.

[KPARRIS-JONES]

yeah they are about 6nm IIRC basically nipped up. should be ok with one out though as you said.

Thanks mate, I will fit the flywheel this week if I can get the Thread Locking Compound on time. I'm guessing that it isn't too expensive?

[AE_92]

yeah they are about 6nm IIRC basically nipped up. should be ok with one out though as you said.

Thanks mate, I will fit the flywheel this week if I can get the Thread Locking Compound on time. I'm guessing that it isn't too expensive?

only cost a couple of quid

[KPARRIS-JONES]

yeah they are about 6nm IIRC basically nipped up. should be ok with one out though as you said.

Thanks mate, I will fit the flywheel this week if I can get the Thread Locking Compound on time. I'm guessing that it isn't too expensive?

only cost a couple of quid

Cheers, I found some and have put the link in on the previous page.

[KPARRIS-JONES]

I have finally managed to get the clutch fitted!

I had to fit the Flywheel first which was quite difficult seeing as every time we tried to torque up the bolts the engine lifted up and moved around.

So to combat this, me and my dad lifted it to the floor, and he sat on it as I tightened the bolts. I had a block of wood jammed underneath the Flywheel to keep it from moving about when I tightened the bolts. I also had to use a thread locking compound which is used to stop the bolts from working themselves loose. It's vibration proof, and is quite expensive for what it is. (£8 one time use from Motorserve)

About the Flywheel:

As mentioned earlier in the thread, the Flywheel is heavy and should be handled with care. Hold it with two hands and with one at the bottom so you don't drop it!

You will need a thread locking compound. They are vibration proof so to make sure that the bolts do not get rattled loose by the engine vibrations. I used Loktite Medium strength fluid because I want to be able to undo them again!

You need only to apply a small few drops of this fluid at the end of each bolt. By putting it at the end, it ensures that the fluid spreads throughout the whole thread as you screw it in.

Do not buy a permanent lock fluid. If you do so, you will not be able to undo the bolts again when you need to replace/remove the Flywheel in the future.

Before fitting, make sure that you clean the Crank-to-Flywheel face and flange, both Flywheel faces, and the Flywheel bolts. Use a degreaser and kitchen roll to do this, making sure that there is no old locking-fluid on them.

I lifted the engine to the floor, and placed the Flywheel in position on it's flange. I lined up the Flywheel holes to the crank face holes, and placed a few drops of locking fluid at the end of one bolt. I first screwed it in by hand, pushing the Flywheel flat against the crank face as I tightened the bolt using a large torque wrench. My dad sat on the block as I tightened it to keep it from lifting up.

The Flywheel to Crank bolt torque setting is 83 N-m

I then proceeded to fit the next bolt, fitting it directly opposite to the first bolt (across the flywheel). The third bolt to go in was fitted directly adjacent to the first bolt to be fitted, and the next, the opposite to that. Follow this sequence and once they are all done, just give each bolt a quick test with the wrench to make sure they are torqued down.

About the Clutch:

When handling the clutch, make sure that your hands are clean and oil-free, because if the faces of the cover, or the Flywheel or the Drive-Plate get contaminated, they will cease to function properly. So keep your hands clean and degrease the Clutch Cover and Flywheel face!

Place the Drive-Plate inside the Clutch cover with the protruding face, inside the cover facing the gearbox. Place the Clutch on the Flywheel flanges, trying to do it evenly. However, feel free to give it a good smack with the palm of your hand if it's not sliding on easily. Bare in mind that the clutch cover will not sit plush with the Flywheel until you tighten the bolts. I didn't know this and questioned whether or not the Clutch Cover was the right one.

DO NOT use oils to help, it could contaminate the surfaces.

Now, put all 6 of the Clutch bolts in so they are hand tight, and do each one up using the same sequence as the Flywheel. However, you will need to keep the Drive-Plate centralised at all times. Do this by using a light to see what you are doing and line it up with the drive shaft slot on the crank face.

Tighten each bolt a little bit at a time, so that the clutch plate clamps down onto the Flywheel evenly. This prevents damage to the Drive-Plate, but also make sure you constantly check it to keep it aligned as you tighten the bolts. Torque down each bolt in the sequence specified earlier in this post.

The Clutch Cover to Flywheel torque setting is 19 N-m

Here are some pictures of the Clutch; :D

I can't wait to use it!!!

[KPARRIS-JONES]

I'm in need of lithium based grease to fit the clutch bearing, anyone know where to go to get that?

[dawesy]

any motorfactors or Halfords. you can use Molybdenum <sp> grease, thats what ive always used. you only need a smear though too much will sling off into the clutch. dont forget to clean and grease the splines on the input shaft too

[KPARRIS-JONES]

any motorfactors or halfords. you can use Molybdenum <sp> grease, thats what ive always used. you only need a smear though too much will sling off into the clutch. dont forget to clean and grease the splines on the input shaft too

O.k. cheers mate.

I'll go to motor-serve. ;)

[KPARRIS-JONES]

O.K. I have some awesome news which will boost progress to quite an extent!

My new plan (it's changed about 400 times since last post) is to get the engine put back together and settle into the bay in the last weekend before xmas.

To help, my dad has just ordered everything I need to get the engine back together;

0.8mm TRD Head Gasket Kit to raise the compression ratio = £80

Head Set = £75 (Includes: camshaft gaskets, valve cover rubber seals and mini gaskets, Head Gasket, Water System Gaskets [NO O-Rings], Spark Lead guide rubber surround, Intake to TVIS Gasket, TVIS to Head gasket, Exhaust Manifold Gasket, Down-Pipe Gaskets, and loads of random little things I have no idea what are for).

Camshaft Oil Seal = £5

Bosch Oil Filter = £10

Jap Fuel Filter = £7

Timing Belt = £20

Exhaust Fitting Kit = £4

NGK Spark Plugs = £20

So basically you're looking at £230 to get the engine back together. But don't forget to buy sealant and oils and greases etc. But I don't think of them as costs to be honest.

All is going well so far then, and I also have an alternator Pulley on order from Fensport and should have some sweet headlamps ordered too.

It's gonna be a good christmas!

[dawesy]

cool keep us posted.

oh and that pic you needed.....

if you compare the area wher the bumper meets the fender you can see the profile differance.

i cut the front portion off a pair of AE-101 wings and welded into place to do mine. its not gereat but depending on whether i keep the front end or not ill rework it later.

[KPARRIS-JONES]

Thanks mate, decent pic.

It looks pretty well perfect to me, I see what you mean but it's not anything that I'd worry about tbh.

[KPARRIS-JONES]

I went out to that garage tonight and got annoyed at the fact the air-filter kit didn't have enough large jubilee clips so I went and nabbed a cable tie and the old hose to make up a new version of the system lol.

I will have to block off the new vacuum pipe seeing as it isn't a good fit anyway, but I will still use the new slot for the MAF sensor.

I think the kit looks pretty beastly:

If anyone would like any help with fitting this kit, PM me or ask here in the thread, I'd be happy to help.

What do you think?

[KPARRIS-JONES]

O.K. I have all the parts I need to put the engine back together over the weekend!

I will be making another trip to Motorerve and Eurocarparts to get a few greases and sealant tomorrow but that's it. I'm really looking forward to completing the engine because once it's back in one piece, I can get it to the garage in the new year. I have been given permission by the owner and everyone there to work on it as and when, also being allowed to use their facilities!

So, first will be the engine bay respray, then the arches and wings, then the sunroof, and then I'll start to get the engine working.*

*The plan is to get te engine in and resting inside the engine bay but not working. This is to make it easier to trabsport all the cars parts, but we will be lifting the engine bakc out to respray the bay. This won't be hard because it won't have been hooked back up. :)

So, next year you will all be seeing a dramatic difference to the GTi and it's bodywork!

SO EXCITED! :D

[-Ish]

YOU seem well excited.. i would be too if i was putting all that hard work in.... bulid seems to be going great good luck look forward seeing more progress

[KPARRIS-JONES]

Thanks, it's been so long waiting!

I'm going out to clean the block-to-gasket surface and head-to-gasket surface with a sheet of wet and dry to get rid of all the old sealant and gasket residue. I will put cloth in the cylinders so that the grime doesn't get into the chamber and mess anything up like the walls.

Then I will start replacing things on the head like oil seals, and other gaskets for the water system, which should boost progress a bit making it easier to finish it off when I have time at the weekend. :D

I will post a report on what happened and how it all went, and I'll give tips from what I learn.

[KPARRIS-JONES]

Cleaning the Block surface:

When I took the Head off, the block was absolutely filthy, covered in a greasy/pasty material. To get this off, I used a large flat-head screwdriver bit, gradually chipping the grime off being careful not to scratch the surface. This will take you roughly 45 minutes, taking your time to brush off all loose material as you chip it off.

Try not to let the material get into the cylinders because it will just be another mess that needs cleaning up. Use some kitchen roll to stuff the cylinders and lift it out when all the cleaning is complete.

Once all of the greasy material is chipped off, use a fibreless cloth and some degreaser to clean the surface of oil dust and grease. This shouldn't take more than 10 minutes to do thoroughly.

Cleaning the Head Surface:

My 4A-GE Head wasn't very dirty at all. All it had on it was a bit of oil on it which was very easy to rub off with the degreaser on a cloth. If you your engine has a history of being ragged and punished or you are replacing the gasket because it has blown, then you should send off the head to be skimmed to make sure it sits perfectly flat on the gasket. I haven't done this because my engine has done a relatively low mileage and had a very gentle life, so I can put it back on without too many worries.

[KPARRIS-JONES]

Small update, I just got myself some Ripspeed floor mats from Halfords.... say what you will but I like them.

They're plain black with one sheet of aluminium on the drivers mat and they finish it off well I think. I'll get pictures when the interior is worth looking at, it has a door, rear arch and various clutch pieces aswell as a front grill littering it at the moment.

[dailey87]

awesome build!

Just out of interest what do you plan to do with it once it's all done?

[KPARRIS-JONES]

awesome build!

Just out of interest what do you plan to do with it once it's all done?

Thanks a lot mate!

Well, because I'm 15 I'll not be able to drive it when she's finished this year! :( I will have it insured and driven to shows by my dad and will go to J.A.E. and stuff. It'll be my way of getting more into the TOC scene!

I'll probably pic up an old Cortina and use that as my runaround and keep this for sunday driving and shows.

[dailey87]

I'm very very impressed!

Knew you weren't old enough to drive it yet but thought it might be a track build.

Amazing work and conviction though mate. I'm damn sure i couldn't have done anything like this at your age. Somthing to be proud of imo!

[KPARRIS-JONES]

I'm very very impressed!

Knew you weren't old enough to drive it yet but thought it might be a track build.

Amazing work and conviction though mate. I'm damn sure i couldn't have done anything like this at your age. Somthing to be proud of imo!

haha thank you!

Yeh it has taken its tool on my wallet and social life (not so much). Total spent is in the registry and it scared me..... I don't want to rag it too much, It's not a racer it's just a slick, rare Jap street machine. I won't street race of course, why risk the time and effort!? :)

Thanks for your kind words, I am glad it's almost finished, because I'm thinking of moving onto building up a Supra next year......

[KPARRIS-JONES]

I have now put on the Water-Pump, Water-Pipes, Tensioner-Pulley, Power-Steering pump bracket and a few other bits on the engine. But I am struggling to remove the snap ring from the CV drive shaft to replace the CV Boot. Anyone know what to do.

I also have the Clutch Bearing fitted too!;

CV JOINT, nice grease...

Looking sorry for herself....

The Motor now;

[KPARRIS-JONES]

Lots of progress has been made today. I have managed to fit the Power Steering pump, Head, Intake-Manifold and Fuel-Rail.

The intake manifold was easy to fit because I had the engine lying on the floor and the torque wrench had a huge extension bar to allow it to fit.

Fitting the Intake Manifold and Gaskets:

The TVIS system is exclusive to the Early-Spec 1988-1990 GTi 4A-GE's , but the bolt positions remain the same.

Before you do anything make sure you have the correct equipment for this. You will need:

*Torque-Capable of going to at least 22 Nm / 16 lb ft ,in old money

*14mm socket with 30cm extension-bar (if you have a large wrench)

*Fibreless cloth

*Degreaser

*3-in-1 or other multi-purpose lubricant

*Inlet System Gaskets [2]

1. Clean the Head inlet-surface, both surfaces on the TVIS and the Manifold-to-TVIS surface using the fibreless cloth and degreaser. The surfaces need to be very smooth, but there will always be some dirt from age which cannot be removed.

2. Get the first gasket that sits on the locating threads and the Head inlet surface, making sure that you don't bend it or contaminate it with oil, dirt or grease.

3. Slide the TVIS onto the locating thread, pushing it and the gasket flat the the head contact surface.

4. Slide the second gasket onto the locating threads, and push it against the TVIS, again making sure not to contaminate it.

5. Slide the intake manifold onto the locating thread and push it and the gasket tightly together, and quickly screw on the two nuts onto the threads to hold the manifold in place. They only need to be finger-tight for now.

6. Screw in each bolt so that they are finger tight with the whole assembly firmly pushed together, putting a little 3-in-1 on the threads to make it easier to screw in and remove on another day. But don't smother them in it because you risk it contaminating the gasket surfaces as you slide them through to the head.

7. Tighten the bolts along the top of the intake to 22 Nm / 16 lb ft

8. Tighten the bolts along the bottom of the intake to 39 Nm / 29 lb ft When tightening, try to do it evenly across the manifold instead of tightening them in one line. It will make sure that the gaskets are compressed evenly to avoid leaking.

This is simply a basic guide towards refitting, so feel free to ask for more detail if you struggle.

Fitting the Fuel-Rail:

You will need;

* Small torque-wrench

* 12mm socket

* A tolerance for fiddly jobs like this

1. Fit the injectors to the fuel rail rather than the head, and place the little fat plastic gaskets in the slots in the head. (they go above where the injectors go, there are 3 of them)

2. Lower the fuel rail to rest on the fat gaskets and so the injectors are positioned inside their little slots. This is really fiddly and nearly had me using the manifold to impale my face, but persist and you will eventually find that its slots into place.

3. You will feel some resistance, this will just be the pigging metal line that spurs off the rail to the left, so try to screw in the left most bolt first with the injector in its slot. This lets you move on to screw in the next two bolts with the line popping up again!

4. Screw in the right hand bolt just finger tight to stop the injectors popping out, making sure that all the injectors are still in their slots for you to tighten the rail.

5. Put in the centre bolt, again finger tight.

6. Check that the injectors are all in the correct positions, and the fat gaskets are sat properly, if all is well then you can now tighten the fuel rail!

7. Tighten the central bolt first to 17 Nm / 13 lb ft

8. Proceed to tighten the other two bolts, always making sure that everything is settled in as it should be, otherwise you may end up cracking an injector which isn't the best way to go for fuel injected engines...

9. Proceed to hook up the fuel lines again to 29 Nm / 21 lb ft

Fitting the Head-Gasket:

You will need:

*400 grit wet-and-dry (4 sheets)

*10mm long and think socket

*Torque wrench capable of working to 29 Nm / 21 lb ft

*Fibreless cloth

*Degreaser

*Head Gasket

*Large/wide Flat-Head Screwdriver

1. First you need to clean the block surface. Use a flat head screwdriver to scrape off all the old gasket material, which is usually graphite and oil and general muck etc. Be very careful not to gouge the surface, small scratches will occur but just be careful.

2. Use the cloth and degreaser to remove any dust and dirt from the surface, so you can get an idea of what else needs cleaning off.

3. Keep using the screwdriver until the surface is almost perfectly flat with no imperfection. You WILL still see dirt!

4. Get your sheets of 400 paper out and hold it tight around your finger tip and clean off all the dirt you can. Some of it is just too hard to clean off but you MUST persist for an hour or so to make sure.

5. Degrease again and wipe off the degreaser with a dry bit of the cloth, you should have a perfectly smooth and quite shiny surface with only tiny amounts of dirt.

6. Do the same with the head surface, whilst also making an attempt to smooth off the edges of the combustion chamber because they can cause detonation if not treated.

The little metal plates that the cam lobes compress will fall out if you place the head upside down, so place it on it's side as shown, and hold it as you scrub.

7. Once you are happy with the level of cleanliness of the surfaces, place the gasket onto the block surface, sliding it onto it locating dowels. Make sure that you do not contaminate the surface with oil, grease or dirt!

8. Rest the head onto the gasket, yet again placing it on the locating dowels.

9. Place in each head stud into it original slot, the exhaust studs are longer than intake.

10. Use the tightening sequence in the following picture to tighten each bolt to 29 Nm / 22 lb ft

11. Mark up with white paint each bolt, facing the timing end. Your torque wrench may have a marker arrow on it too but it's still a good idea to mark up the bolt too.

12. Now turn each bolt 90 degrees so that the white marker faces towards the intake side of the Head in the same sequence.

13. Turn them a further 90 degrees to face the gearbox end of the block, again using the given sequence.

Feel free to ask any questions about anything that I have done so far, I would be happy to help.

Here are some pictures of what I have worked up to so far:

CLEAN ENOUGH SIR!?

I will remind readers that should anything go wrong with their 4A-GE Big-Port TVIS engine by using this information, I will be deeply sorry. However, I cannot take responsibility for every problem someone may run into. I will be happy to help though so comment or PM me. ;)

So, what do you all think?

[cabcurtains]

Whats the current estimated date for an MOT?

Glad to see your still working hard

[KPARRIS-JONES]

Thanks CC, MOT..... I somewhat doubt that it would pass in this state.

Back to progress, both cams have been fitted and torqued down, including oil seals, pulleys and timing end cover. The gearbox is also now fitted with no damage to the clutch upon refitting which is a relief! A few bolts have been found and put into their original places throughout the engine (I keep a bag o' bolts for loose bolts that are lost and then found).

Fitting the Camshafts:

You will need;

* Latex Gloves

* 10w40 Engine oil (I have used Castrol Magnatec, fully synthetic)

* A Torque Wrench capable of 14 Nm / 10 lb ft

* A long and hollow 10mm socket so that it can fit over the tall studs

1. Take one of your camshafts and place it upon a working surface that can get oily, and open up your tub of 10w40.

2. While wearing your latex gloves, dunk your index finger into the tub of oil and smear it upon each camshaft lobe and runner, so that it is fully lubed.

3. Do the same with the bearings in the head and the bearing caps to get everything oiled up and ready for first start.

4. Rest the cam in its slot, noting that the exhaust cam has a toothed section to drive the distributor, and that both cams have locating pins in the timing end. These let you position the cams correctly at TDC.

The Inlet-Cams locating pin is positioned slightly over the peak, instead of aiming straight up, when it is correctly positioned. The exhaust cam is the opposite and is positioned nearer the bottom, but again is at a slight angle as opposed to facing directly downwards.

5. Rest the oiled bearings in their right positions on the cam, and screw in all the bolts so they are finger tight. Note that the long studs (to guide the cam covers) are positioned on the far right [last bearing to the right, assuming the timing end is to your left] and two bearings in, again assuming that you count from the timing end.

6. Tighten the bearings to 14 Nm /10 lb ft in the following order, one bearing at a time: 3, 2, 4, 1, 5 . So basically you start in the middle and work your way outwards. Do not over tighten the camshaft bearings, because they will make an absolute racket upon start up and will become damaged.

7. Repeat everything after and including step 1 to do the other cam.

Fitting Camshaft Oil-Seals:

This is quite an easy job but only because the engine was out and all the covers removed in the first place! But I will help those who ask for help regarding removal too!

You will need;

* Latex Gloves

* 10w40 Engine Oil (I used Castrol Magnatec Fully Synthetic engine oil)

* The oil seals, X2

* A flat-head screwdriver

1. Wearing Latex Gloves, dip your index finger in the 10w40 engine oil and give the lips of the oil seal a good smearing. This includes the inner and outer lips, it just makes it far easier to slide it onto the camshaft locating shoulder.

2. Push the seal onto the camshaft timing end locator, it's obvious where it is, especially if you removed the seal yourself in the first place!

Make sure that you push on the seal squarely so that it doesn't go in too far one end, although it will anyway. To combat the seal going in at an angle, use the screwdriver to push it in from carious angles and it will eventually slot in.

3. Using the screwdriver, push the seal firmly back into its locating shoulder until it will not go in any more. Do this evenly to make sure you get a good seal and try not to slip and damage the surfaces or seal.

4. Repeat this to do the other seal too, but wipe off excess oil to avoid contamination of the timing belt.

Fitting the Camshaft Pulleys:

This isn't a hard job at all provided that you have the correct tools. Just take your time and communicate with you helper as to when you will tighten and let go, this will prevent any damage to the components should someone do something they shouldn't.

You will need;

* An adjustable spanner, with a jaw gap of at least 40mm

* A torque wrench capable of 59 Nm

* A strong partner to hold the cam in place with the spanner

* 14mm Socket

*10mm Socket + Small wrench with long extension bar (100mm)

1. First you will need to fit the timing end cover. It has roughly 7 bolts, on either side of both cams, two close together below the intake cam and one that is closer to the power-steering pump, in a small recess of the plate itself.

2. Tighten these by hand using the small wrench, but not too much because they will sheer. They only need to hold the plate on against the block so they don't need to be gasket tight.

Watch out for the plate slipping downwards, try to keep it straight and lined up with the bolt holes, you will probably see the scuff marks of where the bolts went anyway.

3. Now place the cam pulleys onto their slots, they may be a bit tough to slide on, but do not use oil or anything to help it slide on. You may contaminate the timing belt.

4. Note that the pulleys have TDC marks on them which should be very near the top upon fitting. The Intake cams locating pin will be near the top and the exhaust locating pin near the bottom.

5. Get your helper to place the adjustable spanner on the hexagonal segment of the camshaft (near the middle) and tell them as you begin to tighten the bolt to 59 Nm. Make sure that you both communicate to avoid mistakes being made. Rotate the cam back to TDC if it has been moved, being VERY careful that you do keep the pistons all Halfway, otherwise you will clobber your valves and they will bend.