D4d Power Loss

[DAF66]

new to this so here goes! I have a 2004 d4d rav with an intermittent power loss which occurs in 4th and 5th at around 3000 revs. after a while 3250 revs it seems to push past the problem and the power comes in as should.

Originally had the engine light on and was diagnosed with faulty MAF which has been replaced and although improved still have problems but no error codes and no engine light on. So far ive read it could be one of the following -

EGR valve

Scv Vales

Wastegate

Blocked exhaust

Fuel filter

Require decoking

Whats the best order of elimination to work through the above or is there another way of identifying the fault?

[anchorman]

Welcome to the club (did you have a DAF66?)

That is a good question!

I suppose you should start by doing the lowest cost options so

Fuel Filter (which won't harm anyway)

Clean the EGR with carb cleaner - easy! Look here;

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=97185

That item also describes tha fact that there is no wastegate and the process for checking the VSV is here (you will find it just along the back of the engine towards the pulleys);

VSV_check.pdf

The SCV valves are a common problem but these are getting up the price list but if you need them contact our parts man Kingo and have a read of this;

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=87986

I think the exhaust is unlikely and decoking should be a last resort.

Keep us informed!

[DAF66]

Welcome to the club (did you have a DAF66?)

That is a good question!

I suppose you should start by doing the lowest cost options so

Fuel Filter (which won't harm anyway)

Clean the EGR with carb cleaner - easy! Look here;

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=97185

That item also describes tha fact that there is no wastegate and the process for checking the VSV is here (you will find it just along the back of the engine towards the pulleys);

VSV_check.pdf

The SCV valves are a common problem but these are getting up the price list but if you need them contact our parts man Kingo and have a read of this;

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=87986

I think the exhaust is unlikely and decoking should be a last resort.

Keep us informed!

Thanks for reply Anchorman

Do you have a pdf for the changing of the fuel filter?

Tested the Scv valves today with meter and both read as should (not sure if this means both are def. okay?) But could still be a mech. problem, what do you reckon?

Will check the EGR and VSV tommorow. Local garage had said they had checked the EGR but when i asked him to point it out to me i dont think he had got the right part based on the pdf in the link you sent me (just as well i asked).

Where abouts can i find the EGR? I assume i need to remove the air filter box to get access to it?

Will let you know how i get on ;)

[anchorman]

The EGR is tucked down the left side of the engine (right as you look under the bonnet);

egr_location.pdf

and the process for changing the fuel filter is in this post;

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.p...st&p=886270

There is a pdf but its a bit on the basic side!;

fuel_filter.pdf

[DAF66]

The EGR is tucked down the left side of the engine (right as you look under the bonnet);

egr_location.pdf

and the process for changing the fuel filter is in this post;

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.p...st&p=886270

There is a pdf but its a bit on the basic side!;

fuel_filter.pdf

Checked the EGR mine was different to the one shown, it was a solenoid activated one. Seemed very dirty inside as you would expect but was moving free enough. Cleaned it out anyway. Checked the VSV and tests okay.

Still need to do the fuel filter but need to get one first, i wouldnt of thought this could be the problem as if it ws blocked wouldnt the problem be likely to occur at different rev ranges?

Will change this as matter of course when i test/replace the next item, any ideas what i should try next?

Maybe i need to bite the bullet and buy the SCV valves but ive already spent almost 200 on afm and diagnostics. recently been made redundant so bit reluctant to spend the money unless sure they are the problem, with that said if i take it to mr T it will be easily more than this ? Then again i could replace these and then still have to take it to Mr T who knows what he will charge dont fancy thousands on a turbo or injectors.

From this forum nobody seems to have reported it being anything else except the items ive listed although one or two have occassionaly reported turbos (but its a fan and either works or doesnt?) and some with the injectors but this seems unlikely also? Confused.com?????? Help?????? Dont you just hate it when your cars not right, for my wifes sanity i need to try and get it fixed :)

[anchorman]

Another item to check. Chatman once had this go with similar symptoms. If it is carboned up carefully clean it with carb cleaner.

MAF.pdf

[DAF66]

Another item to check. Chatman once had this go with similar symptoms. If it is carboned up carefully clean it with carb cleaner.

MAF.pdf

Have already had a new MAF fitted, i think my next plan is to change the SCV valves. Ive tested these and they test okay with the meter but maybe mechanically failing.

Do you think its worth removing and cleaning them first before buying new ones?

[anchorman]

I've never heard of anyone cleaning them but maybe nobody has had a go.

I couldn't tell you what it is that sticks but it can't do any harm trying. I don't know if they get gummed up or full of dirt or if the valves become worn and twist in the bores.

If you do have a go would you mind taking some photos?

Cheers

[Barbarian]

The description of your problem seems the same as I had om my 02 D4D

The problem on mine was the cheapest and easiest thing to check although it was the lats thing I had tried in a long list over a lot of months through suggestions by many. The fault was a blocked cat.

Use a socket to remove the 2No. 14mm nuts on the exhaust flange on the bottom of the section coming down from the manifold the exhaust will separate as the first section hangs down on a flexible connection. Then take it for a spin, they are not that noisy with no pipe. I knew within 100 yards that the problem was found and the high ground claerance means accessing the exhaust is handy

Good luc

[DAF66]

I've never heard of anyone cleaning them but maybe nobody has had a go.

I couldn't tell you what it is that sticks but it can't do any harm trying. I don't know if they get gummed up or full of dirt or if the valves become worn and twist in the bores.

If you do have a go would you mind taking some photos?

Cheers

Removed the valves this morning and there wasnt anything to clean, i couldnt even manage to operate the valves. I did notice that there was a great deal of suction behind the first valve when i removed it and had to carefully lever it out.

All looked clean and connectiosn looked in good condition?

Anyway after replacing i took the car for a test drive and the problem as dissappered, so altough im not holding my breath i may have found the potential problem. Will wait and see if the problem re-occurs and then confirm by removing replacing the valves again. If this works again then i will replace the valves. Watch this space?

On another topic does anyone now how to configure the ignition controlled door locking system so the doors lock when the ignition is turned on Mr T says it can be done manually with a sequence (but doesnt always work) for £10 or via the programmer for £35 o(

[chatman]

On another topic does anyone now how to configure the ignition controlled door locking system so the doors lock when the ignition is turned on Mr T says it can be done manually with a sequence (but doesnt always work) for £10 or via the programmer for £35 o(

Yep it does work... I have the sequence noted on a pdf on my home pc... so cant give it to you now.... When I turn on the ignition the doors all lock then when i turn off they all unlock.... My old Renault Megane had a similar thing but you had to be going over 5mph for it to engage... this one on the RAV is as soon as you turn on the ignition... Can be manually overridden with the locking switch on the drivers door....

[three5]

On another topic does anyone now how to configure the ignition controlled door locking system so the doors lock when the ignition is turned on Mr T says it can be done manually with a sequence (but doesnt always work) for £10 or via the programmer for £35 o(

Yep it does work... I have the sequence noted on a pdf on my home pc... so cant give it to you now.... When I turn on the ignition the doors all lock then when i turn off they all unlock.... My old Renault Megane had a similar thing but you had to be going over 5mph for it to engage... this one on the RAV is as soon as you turn on the ignition... Can be manually overridden with the locking switch on the drivers door....

Hi Chatman,

Do you know if I can configure a 4.3 to operate in the same way? My Vitara had an interesting method of door locking: If the car was locked and you pressed the button on the remote control once, only the drivers door unlocked. Press it twice and they all unlocked. It was a very safe method, particularly for the better half who has always been worried since a friend of hers opened the drivers door of her Clio and put her laptop bag on the passengers seat. A "gentleman" opened the passenger door as she was getting in and ran off with the laptop!

[DAF66]

On another topic does anyone now how to configure the ignition controlled door locking system so the doors lock when the ignition is turned on Mr T says it can be done manually with a sequence (but doesnt always work) for £10 or via the programmer for £35 o(

Yep it does work... I have the sequence noted on a pdf on my home pc... so cant give it to you now.... When I turn on the ignition the doors all lock then when i turn off they all unlock.... My old Renault Megane had a similar thing but you had to be going over 5mph for it to engage... this one on the RAV is as soon as you turn on the ignition... Can be manually overridden with the locking switch on the drivers door....

Hi Chatman

Thanks for that reply; would appreciate that pdf when you get chance.

many thanks

[Willmar]

Hi anchorman, gentlemen,

it happened me three times. (RAV4 D4D 2002, 120 000km)

MIL light switched on and suddenly power lost. (Unfortunately when I was overtaking the truck on the road)

After switching off and starting again power was OK & MIL was not lighting.

Error code was read by T. service as No 34/2 without recommendations. No repairment was made. I drive and I am waiting for another collaps.

I can not believe that dirty sensor may cause so serious power losing which means quite dangerous situation on the road.

Would not be possible to check or update the program in the board computer ?

Did anyone of you contact some specialist from Toyota ? There in our area I did not find any relliable specialist.

I am losing the trust to Toyota.

(Good old diesel of passat without any stupid computer which did not leave me in the lurch for 10 years)

[anchorman]

Hi Willmar and welcome to the club.

Can you double check that error code as I can find no record of it?

Unfortunately sudden loss of power is something we here about from time to time and it isn't easy to find what is causing it. The fact you have an error code is a good start but I don't understand why Toyota didn't act on it.

There are good points and bad points with modern cars and onboard computers but even VW have them now and judging by the ones I used to come across they were no better than anything Toyota produce.

It is a sign of the times!

[Willmar]

Thanks Anchorman

This error code was told me by serviceman. (He told something about Mass airflow sensor) I will go to the service again for reading the code and then I will write, what they found.

You are right, it is wery difficult to find the reason of failure which is such intermittent.

I was thinking that if I had a scan tool for OBD diagnostic and oscilloscope I would hang it to the car, drive with this and wait until error appear again.

(Did not try anyone of you to measure the analog signals during running of engine?)

(I was trying the OBD reader GS500 but it was not running on Toyota. Toyota 2002 has DLC3 connector with different order of signal - pins).

I would be very thankful if I had some picture of principle deployment of actuators and sensors in D4D engine. (not picture of view under bonnet where to find it

phyzically. Basic diagram to understand the function)

Anchorman, if you have some materials could you send me it please ?

(I already have the electrical drawings)

Thanks

[anchorman]

These show the general layout of:-

Engine control layout;

engine_control.pdf

Emmission control layout;

emmission_layout.pdf

and the emmission system diagram;

emmission_control.pdf

If there is anything more specific, let me know.