Changing A Thermostat...

[JappyBeast]

Googled it for ages with no How - Too or specific guide.

Anyone here done it and is it a big job??!!

[Bibbs]

Easy job, if I remember right.

a few (2) bolts, and then whip the old one out. Should be able to see it from the bottom of the cam cover.

[TokeTillDeath420]

I've done it, but I've only done it without bleeding the whole coolant system... Overall not a very hard job at all, burping the system is the hardest part... especially in my case where my thermo gauge wasnt workin right =-P

First you gotta take the oil dipstick guide off of the inlet, but DONT drop it cause its a !Removed! to get out. Once you take that off also be carful not to pull the guide out because i found out its not that easy to get back into the sump. Next i found it easier to remove the hose to the inlet(its probably stuck on there so it takes some work), not much fluid falls out at this point but i put a big drip pan under the car. Then there are 2 nuts holding the thermostat in and 1 of them is kind of difficult, i think i remember taking off the oil filter to get to it, but before you do make sure that line you just pulled off isnt floppin around you dont wanna get coolant in there =-P Before you remove the 2nd bolt for the housing, make sure you put the oil filter back on and grab some foil and kinda make like a little chute for the fluid to fall down to the drip pan, or it will just fall all over the side of the engine. Quite alot falls out once you remove the housing, maybe a liter... and now thermostats out. When you put it back in, you have to make sure the jiggle pin is positioned with the little guide within i think like 3 degrees. just put everything back together, being VERY CARFUL not to drop the nuts or bolt!! Then fill the rad cap up with fluid while your 2 bleed ports are open on the front of the car with hoses extended above the radiator cap level. After close the ports... cap the rad cap to the first click so its still loose, start the car for 5 minutes stop... fill and bleed air again and do this till when you open the rad cap fluids sittin there!! And good to go... I used this really good website with pictures, ill google around see if i can find it again. Its pretty easy...

[JappyBeast]

Wow, thanks for the reply guys!

I'm having real issues at the moment with my MR2 with it overheating. Cant get hot air into the cockpit. Bloke on IMOC seems to think that the system needs bleeding and it might not be the thermostat.

[TokeTillDeath420]

Well, if your going to bleed to system and you suspect the thermostat you should just change it cause its like 12$ and the systems already gonna be empty anyway. How fast does it overheat?

[JappyBeast]

Overheated in about 10 mins idle.

It had a new Stat last year so gonna bleed it and see what occurs.

[TokeTillDeath420]

if bleeding the system dont work, then you should try the Water pump or radiator. When i got my rad cleaned out cause i thought i had overheating i asked if it was clogged when i picked it up, they said like only 3 lines were, and wouldnt effect overheating. They asked me if i got heat from the climate control and said If i DID NOT get heat that means the water pumps not pushing water to either the radiator or the heater control... If you DO have heat When the car starts to gat warm you can check for flow to the thermostat just by holding the line from the radiator on the right hand side for heat to see if the rad is clogged... or if you dont wanna peel the plastic up on the front you can check the hose to the inlet where the thermostat is housed but the heat from the engine might warm that up naturally, id use the outline from the rad. If no lines are warm after the rad and no heat... suspected water pump. Well let us know how the bleed goes... hope its not the Water Pump.

[Bibbs]

First step for me would be get the front of the car up in the air, open the tap on the rad and get a hosepipe on the radcap in the engine bay.

Force the water through.

Then get the rad closed, drop the front, let it idle for ages with the cap off .. keep bouncing on the door sills and rock any air locks out.

Overheating is what kills the MR2 idea for me :(

[JappyBeast]

I'm gonna have a blast over the bank holiday weekend as cycling to work is KILLING me.

[TokeTillDeath420]

So what was wrong?

[JappyBeast]

I'm gonna bleed the rads today. I'll update after!

[JappyBeast]

IT'S FIXED!!!!

Found some spare time this morning and used this page for some pictures

http://www.lovehorsepower.com/MR2_Docs/mr2...ling_system.htm

Took about 20 mins to complete and the plastic tubes had never been used before.

So it wasnt the thermostat after all.

Cheers for all the help guys!

[Red Yaris 54]

Glad you got it sorted Andy.....................They are just like babies...........need burping occasionally

[TokeTillDeath420]

Thats cool, just a little bubble... wonder how it happened is the bigger question =-P But on the same subject my gauge is all messed up.

First i put new gauges in the console, maybe i put the needle on wrong?

Then, I changed the Thermostat and cleaned Rad still 'overheating'

Then i just removed the stat.. it sat at about 1/3 but ran like crap cause the damn fuel cut if engines cool

I just accepted maybe i put the needle on wrong and installed stat let it run at 3/4, ran perfect

Then i got timing belt changed with water pump and they toyota changed the coolant.

Ride home = needle at 1/2

Next few days 3/4 then all of a sudden it didnt go above 1/3 but ran like it was at 3/4 or "normal temp" ran like that for a few weeks...

today it stopped at half again but only drove it about 5 miles. The way home 1/3.

Ive just said F this, and if it overheats ill see smoke... LOL but ive heard 91's have temp sensor problems, but intermitent??? Its a burp and fill to change the sensor i think.... never heard about it.

anybody heard about this sensor problem?? Easy change?? OR could i just check the Eng. Temp another way??

[Bibbs]

The sensor is rubbish. The 9 o'clock pointing is for a massive range in temp (70->100) so it's not a linier scale ..

Best bet is to get a SPA gauge (you could get a dual one for pressure and temperature, I had them for my oil) which will give you a proper reading.

They can also be setup to warn you if they go above values etc.

http://www.spa-uk.co.uk//design/productdetails/?objid=123

[TokeTillDeath420]

And this comes with a new sensor? Not just a gauge?

[Bibbs]

And this comes with a new sensor? Not just a gauge?

his oil temperature and water temperature dual gauge represents one of the most accurate temperature monitoring devices available. High resolution mode allows 1/10 of 1 degree resolution, user programmable alarm conditions for any application and peak recall of maximum values.

Kit is fully inclusive of all sensors and wiring as well as comprehensive user manual.

Not a replacement sensor, but an aditional sensor.

[Matt Bainbridge]

Hey guys

I've got a toyota hilux with the rn85 22r in it and I have a feelin I've done the thremostat but I'm not 100 % sure because Ive never done one before but anyway

I'll start the car from cold drive it for 5-10 mins then the temp gauge will be at almost red hot point I'll pull over (leaving the car running) let it cool down to about half way then I can drive it an it won't get hot again ?

I was thinking the thermo cause it's kinda like has to get really got then the thermostat opens up and it's stays at basically running temp after that.

Any ideas ?