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Wont Start At All


sillycarsally
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my import celica 2litre just wont fire up. i just changed the distributor. the distributor cap and the rotar arm and plugs so all new sparking system. the fuel is pumping threw and there is perfect compresionin all the cylinders. but it just wont start. just cranks over. there is no fualt codes in the system so cant see why it wont just burn the fuel and start up. help me before i actualy just scrap the car cos its been doing nothing for 2 weeks. cheers people. :angry:

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Did it go before you changed these parts, or have you changed them in an attempt to start the car?

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i left it for 2 weeks cos as on holiday. then on the second day of driving it i lost all power when driving it and she died. since then placed all these parts and nothing is working. my engine management light flashes rather fast is all, but i heard it means there is no fault codes. so not sure but its flashing fast and dont stop

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if it's flasshing at regular intervals then there's no codes stored, from what you've said about the ignition system just dieing i'd be looking into your actual ignitor after replacing the parts that you have done, test it by unplugginh the king lead from it and get someone to crank the car over holding the lead close to it. if there is a spark then it's fine if not then it could be the fault, just keep your hands away from the end of the lead as it stings like a bugger if you get shocked lol speaking from experiance

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If the distributor body has been removed, without proper marking , it must be aligned to the crankshaft with cylinder #1 at TDC (top-dead-center), while the ignition rotor points to the spark plug wire for cylinder #1. This ensures that the cylinder is at the top of its stroke when the plug fires.

There is a timing mark (notch) on the crankshaft pulley, this indicate the TDC point for 2 pairs of cylinders. There is also a notch on the timing cover assembly, this is the alignment point for the timing notche on the crankshaft pulley.

Paint both notches lightly with white paint. Helps to see them with a timing light.

The objective is to turn the crankshaft so that cylinder #1 is at TDC , then install the distributor so the rotor points to ignition wire #1. The mark on the crankshaft pulley represents the TDC point for BOTH cylinders #1 and #4, so you need to make sure it points to cylinder #1. There are a few different ways to tell whether its pointing to cylinder #1 or #4.

* Trial and error. You can align it and try starting it, if it doesn’t go then turn the crankshaft 360 degrees (clockwise) and try again (after aligning the rotor to wire #1). This will rotate it from #4 TDC to #1 TDC. This is the method I used. On my first attempt it was pointing to #4 (no fire), so I turned the crankshaft 360 degrees, adjusted the distributor so the rotor pointed to cylinder #1, and it fired fine.

* Feel for air pressure. If you remove spark plug #1 and put your hand over the hole, you’ll feel pressure when the crankshaft turns to the compression cycle for cylinder #1.

* Use a pointer as a flag. If you remove spark plug #1 and stick something (like a screwdriver or pencil) in the hole, it will push out when cylinder #1 reaches TDC. But be sure there is room for the screwdriver or pencil to move freely!

Note: If you’re unsure of the cylinder numbering. They are numbered as follows:

front 1 3 4 2 rear

Okay, now there are several different ways to turn the crankshaft to align it to the TDC point.

* Socket wrench on crankshaft pulley nut. If you can get a socket on the crankshaft pulley, you can turn it (clockwise) with a socket wrench. If it’s difficult to turn, you can loosen all of the spark plugs to lower compression.

* Rocking the car. With the car in fifth gear, you can rock it until the pulley aligns to the Z1 point.

* Turning over the ignition. You can turn the ignition (with key) in short bursts until you get it close to the mark, then rock the car in fifth gear to get it exact. This is the method I used and it worked fine, even with just one person, as long as you have patience ;-)

Once you have the crankshaft sitting at TDC for cylinder #1, you need to install the distributor body so the rotor points to the ignition wire for spark plug #1. You’ll notice a small notch on the distributor that aligns to the ignition point for spark plug #1. Put the rotor on the distributor shaft and turn the shaft so the rotor points to (just before) the notch on the distributor body. You will probably have to try it a few times until you get the gears to match up properly. Now install the distributor cap and you should be up and running. If it doesn’t fire, you may be aligned to TDC for #4 instead of #1. If so, try rotating the crankshaft 360 degrees, then readjust the distributor rotor to point to the notch for cylinder #1.

*Get a timing light on no 1 lead and see if the timing is between TDC and approx 10 degrees advance.

* I'm assuming also every fuse has been checked as well as the fuseable link connection of the positive side of the Battery? - LOL

LOTS OF LUCK ! ;)

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i will try all of these possible great ideas. but i also have tried similar methods. i had a specialest boggled by it just put it that way. he thinks its dumping to much fuel in, and its just dripping it in not spraying it. so he said test the fuel pressure and try clean out the fuel filter and injectors.

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