A Bit Of Help Please ?

[GT4 JDM]

Hi, having owned my gt4 for a year now and the blocks cracked i was wanting to find out what to do now. I have some cash available and a few things already, but i was hoping someone can help me into what to buy ? I have previous;y been told to get,

Rps clutch ?

Fidanza flywheel

Wiseco pistons 86.

1.4 cometic head gasket ( got )

Arp head bolts ( got )

540cc injectors

Charge cooler ( all apart from core )

Blitz ss dump valve ( got )

Tubular manifold

De-cat ( got )

Cat back system ( fitted in japan )

GReddy fcd ( got )

MR2 ecu ???? not sure about this en ?

EBC

Standard alloys ??? ( currently have gen 7 ones on, they look daft at the back as its a widebody version )

My brother has advised me on these parts, he has a mr2 with an engine built for 1000bhp. But i want to see other peoples suggestions from past/current experiences.

I have a decent budget for it. I'm looking for fast rally car fun, but keeping safe :)

Any help would be much appreciated.

[dawesy]

not a bad list, i would ditch the tubular manifold though as they are more trouble than they are worth and unless your aiming for big numbers (which with 540cc injectors your only good for about 350ish) not needed. im running close on 500bhp with a stock ST-205 manifold.

MR2 ecu- not much poit to be fair as the MR2 has slightly less power than the 185. i would however put the money saved from buying an MR2 ecu and a tubular manifold tward a fully mappable system. the link G3 is very good value for money and you wont need the FCD (not good anyway IMO).

also if your planning an engine rebuild get a new oil pump. they are about £100 but cheaper than a rebuild.

also worth noting that you will need an ecu to control the 540cc injectors. other than that the list looks good.

[GTForbes]

Rps clutch ? don't see why not, not heard anything bad about them

Fidanza flywheel not really needed, the engine will rev a little freeier, however, driving in traffic could cause difficulties

Wiseco pistons 86. don't see why not

1.4 cometic head gasket ( got ) will do the job :)

Arp head bolts ( got ) good choice

540cc injectors only if your going for after market management, unless thats what the MR2 ECU is for?

Charge cooler ( all apart from core ) i wouldn't bother, front mount all the way

Blitz ss dump valve ( got ) prefer the HKS SSQV :P down to personal choice

Tubular manifold STEER CLEAR! the standard one will handle 400+

De-cat ( got ) good man

Cat back system ( fitted in japan ) every little helps

GReddy fcd ( got ) sell it on, get an after market management and it'll have one included

MR2 ecu ???? not sure about this en ? spend the money on an after market unit

EBC you'll need one or else an uprated actuator, or both ;)

Standard alloys ??? ( currently have gen 7 ones on, they look daft at the back as its a widebody version ) after market, a nice set of Volks ;)

aftermarket management is a minefield, personally for your level of mod's you wouldn't be going wrong getting a piggy back, just steer clear of a Uni-Chip, my friends learned the hard way and had to get new engines or re-builds. stand alone is the ultimate goal as the mapper has complete control, just choose your system to suit your needs and budget

[GT4 JDM]

Right so if i go for....

RPS clutch

Wiseco Pistons 86.

Charge cooler ( like the way they work, or is a front mount better? )

EBC ( What kind? )

Actuator ???

And some sort of management ??

Injectors ??? size ??

If i get a new block is it a good idea to get the head and block down to the engineers ??

How much is this all gonna cost me ??

I would be happy with a daily driver with a good bit of kick when you want it. Im not mechanically minded, so dnt really know what to get. Im a body guy :)

And without putting too much stress on any parts as i have really bad luck with cars :(

I apreciate your help folks, thanks.

[GTForbes]

front mount is better as it is simpler, i keep to the KISS theory (Keep It Simple Stupid) it usually gies greater relyability budget £500

EBC, check eBay usually pretty cheap, i'd recomend a greddy profec B II, but thats personal opinion

actuator, not really sure, simple answer and easy to find would be fensport, or possibly forge.

management/injectors - i can see why your bro recomended the MR2 ecu if it was the REV 3, however there's alot more to the conversion than changing the ECU and injectors, there's online REV2-3 conversions online so could look for that or get an e-manage and i'll fit and map it lol, in all seriousness you need to look at who'll be able to map which ever system you choose and what that system can offer, if it's a simple case of wanting to run bigger injectors and a little tune up then E-Manage blue's are pretty cheap atm, they are easily mapped. or do you go bigger? standalone, fully mappable but then you could be forking out for a bigger system than you really need, all comes down to personal opinion and needs

[GT4 JDM]

Right thanks for the info,

Do i just get a rps clutch build it up as standard and get ebc and charge cooler ? Be good for 270 bhp ?? est £700 ?

Or aswell as them ^ do i get, forged pistons, 540cc injectors, actuator ?, and some sort of management ? could go upto 350 bhp ?? Got injectors, est £1500

So for about 2000 - 2500 i could be good for 350 bhp ??

Then iv been told i would just need 700cc injectors, a bigger turbo and a few wee bits and a re-map and il be good for 500 bhp ??

I try to listen to my brother as his mr2 is mad. Sitting at 550 ish, just to run it in, capable of 1000bhp+ I don't have a clue what he says sometimes !

Do i need to worry about chassis mods ?

Thank you.

[GTForbes]

i'd still say front mount over charge cooler, the reason your bro has suggested a charge cooler is because of the air flow restrictions on an MR2 make it a good upgrade, however, on a front engined car like your celica the front mount is more feisable and ecconomic.

but with your initial set up 270 is easyily achieveable, i made my 250 with a blown head gasket lol

your second setup listed could get you 350 bhp but not with the standard turbo nor cam's (the ST205 exhaust one is a good upgrade) as i have a friend in fife running a forged block, stage 2 hybrid and 1 bar of boost producing 350 but her car is always an exception to any rules lol

700cc's would only get you into 400's, you'd need to be running 1000cc injectors to achieve 500 bhp, along with a whole host of supporting mods

[GT4 JDM]

Thanks.

I think im right in saying that if i was to get the pistons and clutch, the engine and trans will be good for more meaning at 270 it will be safe,

and if i wanted more i dnt need to rip the engine apart again. ??

A 205 exhaust cam ? would that benifit ?

I forgot to say the turbo my brother has is rated at 380 - 500 with supporting mods, and that he would give me this for free when he upgrades to his new

one when his car has run in. I think its something like a gt28 or gt30 ??? something like that. But in saying that i would still need a load of parts to achieve that sort of power. He has also given me some more parts, mr2 ecu, profec spec II boost controller. He offered me a daztec ecu ??? But this has now been sold. He had suggested the link G3 ? but i cant find one anywhere ?

I am currently trying to write up a list of parts for each option. So far it looks like i can get to 270 with not much more. :)

This seems to be the most you can get without changing the injectors and turbo.

I already have,

Air filter

de-cat

full system think its 2.75"

cometic hg

arp head bolts

charge cooler

hks ssqv bov

lowering springs ( want standard ones )

Full service parts

Turbo timer

knock sensor ( standard )

water pump ( new )

radiator ( new )

Greddy fcd

profec spec II boost controller

Boost gauge

Just need,

RPS clutch option of two, one is rated at 270 ft/lb and the other for 350 ft/lb ???

And forged piston what brand is best ??

And actuator ?? the one on fensport is rated to 12 psi is this ok ?

Does that list seem ok for the initial 270?? bearing in mind that i would more than likely go to 350.

Thanks everyone, you are being very helpful :) Best forum iv been on :)

[GTForbes]

I think im right in saying that if i was to get the pistons and clutch, the engine and trans will be good for more meaning at 270 it will be safe,

and if i wanted more i dnt need to rip the engine apart again. ??

yes, pretty much.

A 205 exhaust cam ? would that benifit ?

IIRC it's a slightly longer duration giving more chance for the exhaust gases to escape meaning the turbo gets more push ;)

I forgot to say the turbo my brother has is rated at 380 - 500 with supporting mods, and that he would give me this for free when he upgrades to his new one when his car has run in. I think its something like a gt28 or gt30 ??? something like that. But in saying that i would still need a load of parts to achieve that sort of power. He has also given me some more parts, mr2 ecu, profec spec II boost controller. He offered me a daztec ecu ??? But this has now been sold. He had suggested the link G3 ? but i cant find one anywhere ?

if the turbo is rated to that sort of power it might be too laggy for you to benifit from, might be worth seeing what it's worth and getting something to suit your target power band. you should thank your lucky stars the Daztec is gone, thats the uni chip i mentioned earlier. sorry but i don't know who can supply the link G3

Just need,

RPS clutch option of two, one is rated at 270 ft/lb and the other for 350 ft/lb ???

And forged piston what brand is best ??

And actuator ?? the one on fensport is rated to 12 psi is this ok ?

Does that list seem ok for the initial 270?? bearing in mind that i would more than likely go to 350.

the list is perfect for a safe 270, and onto 350 since it'll be forged

[GT4 JDM]

Hi, and thank you. I think i have a better idea what im doing now :):):)

If i put it into stages il go for

Stage 1

clutch, pistons, cometic hg, arp bolts, :) and build it up as it was running standard boost, run it in :)

Stage 2

st205 exhaust cam, actuator, ebc, fcd, charge cooler :) and turn the boost up to hopefully achieve around 270 - 280 **. psi ??

Stage 3

540cc injectors, link g3 **, bigger turbo possibly t3/t4 hybrid rated for around 325-375, this is where i get stuck lol. I think i would need a flange or something to fit a t3/t4 turbo, im not really sure on what else is needed here??

Could i put the first two stages together ?

** will i need to get it mapped ? How much does it cost ?

I would like to hear more about this e-manage ?? or any other ecu ??

Again thanks for your helps, can't wait to take her out :)

[GTForbes]

:!Removed!: charge cooler, lol. each to their own i guess, they are supposedly good for upto 400 ponnies.

since your replacing the pistons i would build it in the stages you've split it into, it'll do to get everything running smoothly.

the 12psi actuator you mentioned earlier i'm sure will be fine, you'll be taking control of the boost withthe EBC anyways, it's just better to replace a well worn actuator before upping the boost.

to get above 250 bhp i'd think you'd need it mapped for fueling reasons more than anything else as once you go above certain limits the injectors go onto a safety cycle of 100% duty which risks bore wash and scoring resulting. i'd say about 17-19psi would net you 270+ bhp with the right mapping.

onto the mapping, cost can range from £500-£5000+ depending on how far you take it and how many times you go back, it also depends on where you take it.

E-Manage, there's 2 main kinds, the Blue and the Ultimate.

the blue will control your fueling and timing for you and not much else, this allows you to take things beyond the factory norm including bigger injectors, drawbacks, you can only map areas where you are in 'open loop' or on boost in your case. it's not a bad unit and will certainly cover you for your stage 1&2 easily, unfortunately most scottish tuners don't like them, as it is a piggy back you are limited and some can't getthem to work as they want to, personally i had one fitted and it was great, mapped correctly a perfect support for a mild to mid moded engine.

the ultimate is the closest thing a piggy back system has been to being standalone, you can eventually ditch the AFM with it, switch to difierant ignition systems, you'll have launch control, you can raise the rev limit (needed for after market race cams only), you can change the rev limit to be a sprak cut instead of fuel cut which reduces the risk of det up the top end, you can get rid of your speed limiter on JDM cars, the list goes on, draw backs, it's still a piggy back and same as above some tuners don't like them because of this.

i can't really comment on other systems as i have no experiance with them but i can re-iterate not to get a dastek unichip.

[GT4 JDM]

Right il go for the clutch and pistons first i think then build it up as standard. Then take it from there, atleast if i then wanted more power the engine and trans is good for it :)

What work is involved with the clutch and pistons ?

I pressume the clutch is just a straight swap, but what about the pistons ??? What brand and compression is best ?

Do i just straight swap or is there more to it ???

Thanks.

[GTForbes]

you'll need to get the block inspected and measured before going shopping, i don't want to recomend a brand as i never got that far, i think your chioces are Ross, JE, Wiseco and the usual Jap tuners but could be totally wrong. if you give the boys at fensport a phone they could give you a good whack of info on choices and advise you from tried and tested routes, never know they might even have a special offer on lol

clutch should be a straight swap, the engine will be out so a hell of alot eaiser

[GT4 JDM]

Hi, i have just been offered a st185 engine ( including everything manifolds, turbo etc. )

Which got a full re-build to standard spec costing £2000 ( reciepts to prove ) only 5000 miles ago.

Is this worth buying and putting in as standard?

In saying that i could just put the pistons and clutch on this new engine and im where im wanting to be, just with a potentially better engine and less in the pocket.

Ultimately meaning it will be longer before i can do my "stage 2" mods, but atleast il know everything is 100% ?

But then again, even if i put this standard rebuilt engine in just with the rps clutch, i wouldnt have any problems to get it to 320 ish with injectors, mapped etc.

So keep my one and get it fixed ( forged eventully upto 300-500bhp through time ) or get this new en which has had a rebuild (and keep it to 320 ish ) ?

My budget would be around 1500-4000 depending on whats best.

Thanks.

[GT4 JDM]

oops !

[GT4 JDM]

Just a wee update.

I have decided to buy this engine and it is currently getting fitted. Got a new gearbox and transfer box too. My gearbox was wierd in 4th, so i just got a new one.

I should have it back this weekend hopefully :) It's also gettin a full service etc.

It turns out the cause of the cracked block was the temp sensor in the bottom of the rad wasn't in correctly ?

So no chances this time everything is getting checked over twice. !!

Thanks.

[GTForbes]

sound's like you've solved your problems and prevented months of heart ache, congrats lol. let us know how the new engine treats you

[GT4 JDM]

Hi, thanks you and i will keep you updated :)

Was just wondering on what fluids to use.

Think its 75w90 fully synth for trans 5 litre

10w50 fully synth for engine 5 lire

and toyota red for coolant 5 litre

What brands are best? I was told miller for trans and Mobil 1 for engine ?

How do i top up the diff oil and do i just use the same for the trans ?

Thank you

[GTForbes]

oil weights your best speaking to one of the sponsors on the site, oil man i think his screen name is, same for brands.

to top up the diff you need to pour it in the inspection hole IIRC, been that long. just use the same as the transmission

[GT4 JDM]

Hi, i have recently discovered that the engines are more different than i thought. All the connectors etc are different and the loom has extra bits here and there and vice versa. Ive put the original jap loom on the british engine and changed most of the parts, really just the bare engine im using.

Will this effect anything using this british engine in a jap car ?

Also progress is coming along nicely, not that good with mechanics but learning as i go with help from my brother. Seems like a huge job but taking it in stages :) Should be up and running perfect for the 1st of july ( need tax ) !!

Was going to remove the air-con but i like my comfort !!!!!

I am looking for a nice set of wheels for it, something "rally" iv got an idea of the ones i want, something like these (below) hope it works !!

[GT4 JDM]

Hi, its been a while but it's almost done !!!!

Just got radiator and Battery to hook up :) getting mot'd and taxed this saturday so hope it goes well.

Its got a re-built 3sgte in it with 5000 miles on it. Keeping it standard for a bit then get a few upgrades and service it again :)

Had the car on the ramp and ***** theres not a mark underneath, prob cause it hasn't seen much of the british roads lol

Let you know how she runs on saturday :)

[GT4 JDM]

Hi everyone.

She passed her mot and she is taxed and running.

I have a problem tho, theres a juddering when the turbo spools up, sounds like an air leak gonna hook up a gauge,

think theres a couple of vacum hoses out or something ??

Its been suggested to me to service it again then take it out for a good drive to settle it in, but im clueless and its been so long,

im dying to drive it properly !!!

Going to get dizzy cap, rotor arm and spark plugs from toyota tomorow. Also got new ignition leads. Oh and new jubs for the pipes etc, see what happens then.

Anyone know anything it could be and/or have any suggestions ?

Thanks.

[GTForbes]

i'd do what you have planned then see if it solves it first as i had the same situation except no audible air leak and it was the leads failing

[Fawbs]

If you still want that st205 exhaust camshaft i have one for sale if you are interested Also if you are getting pistons try getting some low expansion jobs for better durability of the engine, i'm looking at getting some mahle pistons haven't made up my mind yet.

[GT4 JDM]

Still cant figure it out she runs fine getting two error codes but cant solve them

water temp sensor, its fine but theres no water temp sender wire in my loom ???? is there a way to splice it in as id love a temp gauge !!!

Vehicle speed sensor, speedo doesnt work either.

Other than that the car runs sweet, but im scared of driving her incase something goes wrong.

My vacuum/boost is all over the shop, going to fit a boost gauge the now and see it better, seemingly it should be 17-21 vacuum on idle ?

And 7 psi in 1st and 2nd then 9 psi there after ?

See what its saying, does drink the fuel though guestimating iv done 60 miles for £20 of fuel 20, ish mpg ??

Any help would be great, just want her running perfect now :)

Thanks.