Egr Removal?

[lloydp]

The loss of power > 3000rpm on my D4D, probably caused by EGR sticking, is now in need of attention!

Other members have kindly pointed out the EGR location, as it doesn't seem to be in the same place as Anchorman's pdf, but now I can't easily see how it is removed for cleaning. It is located on a plate held by 2 bolts on top of the turbo, but it appears by feeling around that there is a pipe coming out of the bottom which attaches down the back of the turbo, and I'm not sure how this attaches, or even if I can remove the unit whether there are any serviceable parts I can get at. Here's a pic of the location:

Has anyone else got a unit like this they've serviced, or have a page from the service manual they could share please?

[mickboy]

Hi there lloydp...The picture you show is not the EGR but the Turbo VSV Actuating capsule (vacuum operated). If you trace the small tube back from that capsule to the little solenoid operated E-VRV you should find another small tube connecting it to the EGR.....Hope this is of help...

Rgds Mick.

[lloydp]

Hi there lloydp...The picture you show is not the EGR but the Turbo VSV Actuating capsule (vacuum operated). If you trace the small tube back from that capsule to the little solenoid operated E-VRV you should find another small tube connecting it to the EGR.....Hope this is of help...

Rgds Mick.

Thanks Mick - I've traced the tube back to the E-VRV, and that's connected to this unit (arrowed). This doesn't look anything like the parts list as it's missing the 'top hat' like the actuating capsule. Looks like a b*tch to remove too as there's a short rubber pipe without a screw clip underneath going to the exhaust manifold. Guess the whole air filter housing has to come out too.

Am I in the right place now Mick? Thanks for everyone's patience - feel like a right lemon. Bring back the 1960's mini!!

[lloydp]

Any takers please?

[dave.m]

Sounds like one for Anchorman, but I reckon he may be lying on a distant beach at the moment.

[mickboy]

Hi again lloydp........Sorry lloyd for that bit of misinformation that tube connects to the Vacuum Pump as shown in your photo. I have just been and checked my Rav and it does not seem to have an EGR as pictured in the Toyota Manual page EC- 6, there is certainly no unit with the vacuum capsule(as fitted to the Turbo). Looking into engine bay the EGR is the unit just fwd( between you and the vacuum pump) of the vaccum pump and has 2 hoses connected to it. This is illustrated on page DI-16 of the toyota manual....access does not look particually brilliant......Hope this is of some use...

Rgsd Mick.

[lloydp]

Thanks Mick, but did you see my 2nd photo? (3rd post on this thread I think). Is that it?

[mickboy]

Hi lloydp...the item arrowed in your second picture is the Vacuum Pump, the EGR is fwd of this more or less under he E-VRV. The access to it is not too good but would be improved by removing the Air Filter Housing Assy. It has an electrical connection and 2 hoses connected to it.....

Rgds Mick. :)

[anchorman]

As Mick says you are pointing to the vacuum pump for the brakes. Later EGR valves look a bit different to the one on EC6 with an electrical plug. See if these help;

egr_2.pdf

egr_3.pdf

[twingo69]

The loss of power > 3000rpm on my D4D, probably caused by EGR sticking, is now in need of attention!

Other members have kindly pointed out the EGR location, as it doesn't seem to be in the same place as Anchorman's pdf, but now I can't easily see how it is removed for cleaning. It is located on a plate held by 2 bolts on top of the turbo, but it appears by feeling around that there is a pipe coming out of the bottom which attaches down the back of the turbo, and I'm not sure how this attaches, or even if I can remove the unit whether there are any serviceable parts I can get at. Here's a pic of the location:

Has anyone else got a unit like this they've serviced, or have a page from the service manual they could share please?

I have a T180 verso and have just cleaned my EGR valve which I attach some photos, not sure if it is the same but may be.

[Davrav]

The loss of power > 3000rpm on my D4D, probably caused by EGR sticking, is now in need of attention!

Other members have kindly pointed out the EGR location, as it doesn't seem to be in the same place as Anchorman's pdf, but now I can't easily see how it is removed for cleaning. It is located on a plate held by 2 bolts on top of the turbo, but it appears by feeling around that there is a pipe coming out of the bottom which attaches down the back of the turbo, and I'm not sure how this attaches, or even if I can remove the unit whether there are any serviceable parts I can get at. Here's a pic of the location:

Has anyone else got a unit like this they've serviced, or have a page from the service manual they could share please?

I have a T180 verso and have just cleaned my EGR valve which I attach some photos, not sure if it is the same but may be.

Are you sure this is a diesel engine and not a steam engine ? ;)

Man, that's filthy.

[anchorman]

I have a T180 verso and have just cleaned my EGR valve which I attach some photos, not sure if it is the same but may be.

This is interesting. A couple of questions though;

Did it give you a fault light when it stuck?

Did you remove the manifold and clean inside or just clean that inlet chamber?

If it did give you a fault code (0400) you do realise that you can get a modified valve and a new inlet manifold under an extended warranty?

[lloydp]

As Mick says you are pointing to the vacuum pump for the brakes. Later EGR valves look a bit different to the one on EC6 with an electrical plug. See if these help;

egr_2.pdf

egr_3.pdf

Thanks anchorman - a star as usual. I thought I had it right from Mick's description, but your pdf's nailed it.

Incidentally, I took a motorway trip at the w/e and the loss of power was driving me nuts. However, I found that if I depressed the accelerator just before 3000rpm I was getting a loud fluttering noise fom the engine (sounded like a sheet of aluminium foil rapidly fluttering). I moved up slowly (ie without much pedal depression) to 3500rpm, and when I decelerated after a while I got a huge pall of white smoke behind. After I'd slowed down (to the appreciation of the vehicles behind!), I found I'd got full power/acceleration back again without the fluttering noise. This stayed like it until yesterday when I noticed it was hesitating again > 3000rpm, but no recurrence of the noise. Does this noise tie in with the EGR do you think?

[anchorman]

As Mick says you are pointing to the vacuum pump for the brakes. Later EGR valves look a bit different to the one on EC6 with an electrical plug. See if these help;

egr_2.pdf

egr_3.pdf

Thanks anchorman - a star as usual. I thought I had it right from Mick's description, but your pdf's nailed it.

Incidentally, I took a motorway trip at the w/e and the loss of power was driving me nuts. However, I found that if I depressed the accelerator just before 3000rpm I was getting a loud fluttering noise fom the engine (sounded like a sheet of aluminium foil rapidly fluttering). I moved up slowly (ie without much pedal depression) to 3500rpm, and when I decelerated after a while I got a huge pall of white smoke behind. After I'd slowed down (to the appreciation of the vehicles behind!), I found I'd got full power/acceleration back again without the fluttering noise. This stayed like it until yesterday when I noticed it was hesitating again > 3000rpm, but no recurrence of the noise. Does this noise tie in with the EGR do you think?

Yes - I've not experienced it myself but that is exactly how it has been described to me.

It sounds like a tin of carburettor cleaner will be a good investment as a starter (if its really bad you might have to renew it).

[moonstone mart]

The loss of power > 3000rpm on my D4D, probably caused by EGR sticking, is now in need of attention!

Other members have kindly pointed out the EGR location, as it doesn't seem to be in the same place as Anchorman's pdf, but now I can't easily see how it is removed for cleaning. It is located on a plate held by 2 bolts on top of the turbo, but it appears by feeling around that there is a pipe coming out of the bottom which attaches down the back of the turbo, and I'm not sure how this attaches, or even if I can remove the unit whether there are any serviceable parts I can get at. Here's a pic of the location:

Has anyone else got a unit like this they've serviced, or have a page from the service manual they could share please?

I have a T180 verso and have just cleaned my EGR valve which I attach some photos, not sure if it is the same but may be.

Thats a different (later) diesel engine mate.

Mart.

[lloydp]

Just to finish off this post, I finally got round to taking off the egr valve and giving it a good clean with some carburretor cleaner, as per anchorman's suggestion. the only surprise (for me anyway) was that the two attached pipes were carrying coolant water, but 2 spare 12mm bolts soon fixed that. I think there was a fair bit of carbon on the seat of the valve, and with a screwdriver blade I could rotate this in a lip at the top to move the valve up an down so I could get to the hidden bits. Anyway, I put it back together and went for a test drive. Marvellous - could rev right through 4500rpm without any hesitation or smoke afterwards, so looking good but fingers crossed it won't happen again quickly.

Thanks to all who responded, and particularly anchorman of course. Without this forum I'd have been faced with a garage bill I can ill afford. Total cost of the job: about £3 for some Wynn's carb cleaner from Halfords.

[kiki]

hi! I am new here and yet found these post.

My verso (136 PS) have problem with acceleration after 2500 o/min. Car haven't power and have poor acceleration.

Is it dirty EGR valve?

Have anyone service manual for Corolla Verso 2.2?

[anchorman]

The manual is available on the Toyota publications website but it is your EGR that needs cleaning by the sound of things. If you phone Toyota customer relations you will find there is an extension of the warranty to 100k or 5 years providing it has registered a fault code of 0400. If it hasn't then you have to figure a way of making do so. Without putting words in your mouth I'm sure you can work something out!!!

OBTW welcome to the club!

[OldSkoO1]

I would be very interested to know how the people with clogged EGR's drive. E.g. when do you normal change gear, how fast do you accelerate and how many miles do you normally drive on your daily routes + what fuel do you use.

Most of my trips are about 25 miles to work. Occasionally i do longer journeys but as its 25 miles there and 25 miles back on a-roads and town i make a concious effort to drive in a certain way not to clogg up the EGR in my T180.

I accelerate with 50-70% throttle, fairly quick acceleration occurs between max torque, roughly 1.9k - 2.6k rpm. I cruise at a steady speed at or just under max torque so between 1.7 and 1.9k RPM. You will hear an increase typically diesel knocking noise which is the result of a sudden change in combustion where the fuel is injected under immense pressure which atomizes and ignites with the pressure and heat. At this RPM range, keeping max cylinder pressure and the heat up will help burn off or reduce soot accumulation or so i think.

You want to change gear whilst the engine's mean piston speed reaches 1200-1500. This is when the engine is running low frictional horsepower loss and high volumetric efficiency. In other words, working most efficiently and is the very best range to accelerate in as the engine generates power for the least amount of fuel that is used. I worked this out as a measure of RPM*engine stroke length(inches)/6. Which on the t180 works out at 2k RPM to 2.5k RPM, as the range to accelerate and shift in.

As an offshoot of the above, quick acceleration or the use of RPM and gear changes this also improves MPG.

Also i believe that at crica > 60% throttle opening the EGR value opens and above 3.5k RPM. Someone might need to confirm that.

Also taking up to max power often and occasionally going up to red line will help clear soot. I also alternate between v-power and Shell extra diesel. And i hope, all things considered i will reduce soot accumulation as i don't do m-way miles.

//Alternatively

The worse thing you can do in a common rail diesel with EGR / DNPR etc is to, chug along at <1.5k RPM, shift at < 2k RPM, only accelerate with slow and moderate rates, use supermarket diesel, only do short journeys < 15 miles a go and if you never go up to max power circa 3.8k and if you never go up to red line.

[Bigspeakerman]

I would be very interested to know how the people with clogged EGR's drive. E.g. when do you normal change gear, how fast do you accelerate and how many miles do you normally drive on your daily routes + what fuel do you use.

Most of my trips are about 25 miles to work. Occasionally i do longer journeys but as its 25 miles there and 25 miles back on a-roads and town i make a concious effort to drive in a certain way not to clogg up the EGR in my T180.

I accelerate with 50-70% throttle, fairly quick acceleration occurs between max torque, roughly 1.9k - 2.6k rpm. I cruise at a steady speed at or just under max torque so between 1.7 and 1.9k RPM. You will hear an increase typically diesel knocking noise which is the result of a sudden change in combustion where the fuel is injected under immense pressure which atomizes and ignites with the pressure and heat. At this RPM range, keeping max cylinder pressure and the heat up will help burn off or reduce soot accumulation or so i think.

You want to change gear whilst the engine's mean piston speed reaches 1200-1500. This is when the engine is running low frictional horsepower loss and high volumetric efficiency. In other words, working most efficiently and is the very best range to accelerate in as the engine generates power for the least amount of fuel that is used. I worked this out as a measure of RPM*engine stroke length(inches)/6. Which on the t180 works out at 2k RPM to 2.5k RPM, as the range to accelerate and shift in.

As an offshoot of the above, quick acceleration or the use of RPM and gear changes this also improves MPG.

Also i believe that at crica > 60% throttle opening the EGR value opens and above 3.5k RPM. Someone might need to confirm that.

Also taking up to max power often and occasionally going up to red line will help clear soot. I also alternate between v-power and shell extra diesel. And i hope, all things considered i will reduce soot accumulation as i don't do m-way miles.

//Alternatively

The worse thing you can do in a common rail diesel with EGR / DNPR etc is to, chug along at <1.5k RPM, shift at < 2k RPM, only accelerate with slow and moderate rates, use supermarket diesel, only do short journeys < 15 miles a go and if you never go up to max power circa 3.8k and if you never go up to red line.

Dear Oldsko01,

I have just returned from having my Avensis T180 56 plate (31k miles only) looked at by Toyota. I reported lack of power under 2000rpm and they tell me it needs new EGR and DCAT plus other parts, they will need the car for 3-5 days, they will call me Monday to book it in when they know a courtesy car will be available. The whole system is clogged and previous attempts (1 month ago serviced and EGR cleaned) have not sorted out the problem. I drive 3 miles each way to work and 4 miles each way to drop off my son at rugby training twice a week. I use V-Power diesel mainly, but Shell diesel standard when the station doesn't have the v-power. When I go on longer journeys, maybe every other week, when the engine is fully warm, I rev it over 4k RPM at least a few times and sometimes for a few seconds to make sure. I bought the car at 2 years old in January 2009, and it has driven fine for 7-8 months. The ecu program to prevent over-fuelling was loaded as a mater of routine about 3 months ago when I had the front discs replaced, but that made no difference to performance or economy. On my short trips I try not rev over 3k as the engine isn't warm, but make a conscious effort never to labour the engine under 1600rpm.

At the last service, which is only 6 months and <2k miles since the last one, I reported a funny noise between 1600 and 2000rpm when using all available power and the Toyota technician changed the auxiliary drive belt allegedly. Since that visit the car hasn't run correctly and I booked it in 3 weeks ago for the first Saturday service slot.

I am now wondering, when the std 3yr warranty runs out in December 2009, should I trade in my diesel for a petrol, due to my short journeys? Please don't suggest to walk or cycle, I live on a hill and the journey home from work is a killer, plus I need to be home quickly, allowing for finishing late also.

[anchorman]

If the car has recorded a 0400 fault code it requires a new EGR valve and a new inlet manifold if it is too carboned up to be cleaned out. The EGR is modified to resist a reoccurance. It will be fine when it is done.

Keep you chin up and don't do anything rash just yet!!!

[Bigspeakerman]

If the car has recorded a 0400 fault code it requires a new EGR valve and a new inlet manifold if it is too carboned up to be cleaned out. The EGR is modified to resist a reoccurance. It will be fine when it is done.

Keep you chin up and don't do anything rash just yet!!!

Thanks for that. HW Moon stated that the system was too clogged and parts will require replacement. I perceived the man was telling me that something was not working correctly to cause the clogging, but I thought he was telling me it was the fifth injector. Have I also read somewhere that the warranty on this clogging issue is 100k miles or 5 years.

Also, I had been considering the chip from Lindop Toyota, as the real reason for having the car is performance, but now worried about causing more problems. Do you have an educated opinion on the fitment of chips, as my attitude has always been that if you want a faster car, get one, don't mess about like a boy racer. I am nearly 37 and closer to modifying my car than ever.