Is An Mr2 Rev 3 A Good Used Buy?

[mr2simon]

Hi everyone. New here and looking for a new car for when I turn 21. Really like the look of an mr2 turbo rev 3, possibly t bar but had a few questions I was hoping somebody might be able to help me with.

I was hoping to pick up a completely standard one around 50-70k for around 2500 and keep it standard. I have found a few in this price bracket, however as the car is now around 15 years old is it reasonable to expect it to be reliable or will I most likely be spending a lot on repairs.

The car will be used every day and cover around 1k a month.

I love the idea of getting a mid engine rear wheel drive sports car that can keep up with the imprezas but don't want to have something that is on it's last legs unless I am extremely lucky that is likely to cripple me financially.

Excluding optional mods what are your guys rough annual maintanance bills like on cars like this? I would consider around 700 a year acceptable Inc tyres and service but don't think I could really afford much more than that.

Thanks in advance guys

[mr2simon]

Also thought I would add that I currently have a ford cougar v6. Although this isn't all that fast it drinks fuel and insurance is still quite high so i am hoping the extra costs will be minimal. Not like i'm jumping from a Saxo or something!

[Karma Supra]

Yup great car, My other half has one and has had it for about a year and a half now, well over 100k miles AFAIK only issues she has has has been tyre related, - and the handbrake froze on one morning lol. (it was -8)

[Bibbs]

I ran a turbo as a daily drive with about 50miles a day commuting for 6 years. I put about 100k miles on it, including 2 Nur trips.

Average MPG was about 25 if taking it easy. (250 miles to a tank at a push). Others get better, but mine used to chuck massive flames out the exhaust all the time, and I tended to thrash it hard.

Tyres lasted about 5k miles for rears, 10k for the fronts. About £100 a corner. Again, I'd got through them quicker the more I chucked it about and the softer compound I went for.

Servicing should be often, like 4k miles often (it's an 80's turbo after all). Just a change of oil and the occasional dizzy cap, rotor arm, plugs and leads (they eat eletrical components as they are open to the rain).

Some times the car would be a dream to drive for months on end, and then other times it's be a nightmare.

I managed to blow the heater matrix, radiator, water pump, thermostat all in a week. Because the head was gunked up in the waterways and would overheat.

I also managed to kill a gearbox and a driveshaft.

It's why I went for a newer Honda (and then dropped a few bottom ends and piston rings on that).

It's now an old car, which is fairly quick and cheap. Lots of cars now have dodgy offset wheels (they are staggered offsets and widths, and should run them.) and munting Veilside bodykits. Many are showing signs of rust, esp in the center of the roof where the T-bar meets the car.

For £2500 you'll get a bit of a dog to be honest.

Be wary of past owners, there are a lot of Saxo types who chrash and burn in them, and then pass them on.

[Bibbs]

and the handbrake froze on one morning lol. (it was -8)

Very common Charlie, take the covers off and grease the pivot joint where the one cable splits into two.

The spring mech gets stuck with ice and with no heat in that area doesn't de-frost.

[mr2simon]

I ran a turbo as a daily drive with about 50miles a day commuting for 6 years. I put about 100k miles on it, including 2 Nur trips.

Average MPG was about 25 if taking it easy. (250 miles to a tank at a push). Others get better, but mine used to chuck massive flames out the exhaust all the time, and I tended to thrash it hard.

Tyres lasted about 5k miles for rears, 10k for the fronts. About £100 a corner. Again, I'd got through them quicker the more I chucked it about and the softer compound I went for.

Servicing should be often, like 4k miles often (it's an 80's turbo after all). Just a change of oil and the occasional dizzy cap, rotor arm, plugs and leads (they eat eletrical components as they are open to the rain).

Some times the car would be a dream to drive for months on end, and then other times it's be a nightmare.

I managed to blow the heater matrix, radiator, water pump, thermostat all in a week. Because the head was gunked up in the waterways and would overheat.

I also managed to kill a gearbox and a driveshaft.

It's why I went for a newer Honda (and then dropped a few bottom ends and piston rings on that).

It's now an old car, which is fairly quick and cheap. Lots of cars now have dodgy offset wheels (they are staggered offsets and widths, and should run them.) and munting Veilside bodykits. Many are showing signs of rust, esp in the center of the roof where the T-bar meets the car.

For £2500 you'll get a bit of a dog to be honest.

Be wary of past owners, there are a lot of Saxo types who chrash and burn in them, and then pass them on.

Interesting what you say about the costs. Thanks for going into so much detail. Exactly the answer I was looking for. I currently only average 24mpg in the cougar and tyres on that are pretty damn expensive if you get the right ones (£150ish) so those costs don't concern me too much, however what you are saying about the car being quite dated now and needing very regular servicing does sound a bit pricey I must admit.

Obviously I don't own one so cant really comment on what the car is like however I can't imagine you could get another car that would be as much fun to drive for similar money. If it wasn't for insurance then I would probably get a Suburu as it has the 4WD and the practicality as well as the speed, however even that I can't see being anywhere near as fun as an MR2, plus there are loads around. The insurance quote I got for an imported sti/turbo 2000 (which is only thing I could afford) came to £1850 where as the mr2 turbo was only £1000 which struck me as being a bit of a bargain.

I see what your saying about finding one that hasn't been owned by a saxoesque driver! When looking around the majority are heavily modified and high mileage. I would only consider getting one if I could get a completely unmodified car with less than 70k on the clock. Shame the cars were all imports as I get the impression that you would never be able to really tell what your getting.

So all in all how much would you say you had to spend on your Mr2 on a yearly basis to keep the thing roadworthy? Interested to know the cost of one of these services every 4k miles (I would need 3 of these a year). If anyone else can chip in with there repair bills and maintenance costs that would be really useful.

Thanks!

[Bibbs]

I'll try and add a bit more info about prices.

I ran Toyo Proxie tyres (after trying Goodyear and Bridgestone). Shopping about you can get them cheap. And I'd run 15", 16", 17" and 18" wheels during my time.

The 4k mile service is just oil/filter. So 5L of oil and £10 on a filter and washer. Very easy job to do.

Brakes were fairly cheap. couple of hundered for stock parts. A new clutch was about £200 for stock-ish parts too. But I tended to uprate all my stuff.

I loved my MR2 (I had an NA before as well), it's got a big boot and with extra room behind the seats and in the front wheel well, it's great for holidays or shopping. The 2 seats was never an issue for me.

The main chassis seems rot free, but the roof and ocasionally the doors go (from the inside after water runs down the windows).

More T-bars leak, but there are cheap and expensive fixes. My personal fix was £4 on black silicone sealant and £1 on cling film. Sorted.

Finding a stock one will be VERY hard. Most have at least an exhaust and filter.

There are quite a few parts places out there, so keeping it going wasn't a problem.

Was gutted when I sold it, but I couldn't look at it without swearing after a while.

[mr2simon]

I'll try and add a bit more info about prices.

I ran Toyo Proxie tyres (after trying Goodyear and Bridgestone). Shopping about you can get them cheap. And I'd run 15", 16", 17" and 18" wheels during my time.

The 4k mile service is just oil/filter. So 5L of oil and £10 on a filter and washer. Very easy job to do.

Brakes were fairly cheap. couple of hundered for stock parts. A new clutch was about £200 for stock-ish parts too. But I tended to uprate all my stuff.

I loved my MR2 (I had an NA before as well), it's got a big boot and with extra room behind the seats and in the front wheel well, it's great for holidays or shopping. The 2 seats was never an issue for me.

The main chassis seems rot free, but the roof and ocasionally the doors go (from the inside after water runs down the windows).

More T-bars leak, but there are cheap and expensive fixes. My personal fix was £4 on black silicone sealant and £1 on cling film. Sorted.

Finding a stock one will be VERY hard. Most have at least an exhaust and filter.

There are quite a few parts places out there, so keeping it going wasn't a problem.

Was gutted when I sold it, but I couldn't look at it without swearing after a while.

Well it's definitely still favourite at the moment then as it doesn't look like it is likely to be hugely more expensive than my current motor, although a little more time will be needed in maintaining it. Maybe a completely stock car will be out of the question but as close to stock as possible will be the aim with low mileage. The only other car I can really think of for the same mix of insurance costs, performance and price would be a celica gt-four but I don't see that being as fun. I did also look at an Integra Type R and cars like that however they're significantly down in terms of speed.

Just got a few months to wait now until I can afford to insure the beast! Don't want to take too much more of your time Bibbs, but do you have any quick tips when buying one. Things to look out for etc besides the obvious like checking out the turbo.

[Bibbs]

Things to check ..

Apart from the usual accelerate hard, brake hard and see if it turns (hold the wheel light, shouldn't pull in any direction).

Check all the under trays and wheel liners. The bolts rust and dirt gets in, easy for rot to start.

Take out the spare wheel and look at the bottom of the well. That can rust too.

On the t-bar, check the front centre join for rust.

Check the alloys are the same temp after a drive. Seized calipers are comon, but easy to fix.

Check the sills, if they haven't used a nice jack, they can be rusting.

The ECU is in the boot, check the loom as if any gadgets have been fitted, they'll tap in here (delimiters, boost controllers).

There is a hose from the ECU to the actuator, and another hose from the actuator. It's common for one to be blocked and a boost valve put in the other.

Syncro's on 2nd can be a pain. Also getting into 1st. May need to double de-clutch.

Staggered offset wheels are a must. Otherwise the rears are about an inch too narrow on each side.

Take it for a long-ish run, 40mins is a must for overheating.

Looks for orange staining at the back of the engine bay (near the turbo). It'll be a coolant problem usually.

Also have a look under the rear bumper for damage, and the grille that covers the exhaust for dents/damage. I'll be obvious if it's had a knock.

Take off the slam pannel on the front and look for anything bent too. It's where the rad is and the mounts will be bent on any impact.

[mr2simon]

Things to check ..

Apart from the usual accelerate hard, brake hard and see if it turns (hold the wheel light, shouldn't pull in any direction).

Check all the under trays and wheel liners. The bolts rust and dirt gets in, easy for rot to start.

Take out the spare wheel and look at the bottom of the well. That can rust too.

On the t-bar, check the front centre join for rust.

Check the alloys are the same temp after a drive. Seized calipers are comon, but easy to fix.

Check the sills, if they haven't used a nice jack, they can be rusting.

The ECU is in the boot, check the loom as if any gadgets have been fitted, they'll tap in here (delimiters, boost controllers).

There is a hose from the ECU to the actuator, and another hose from the actuator. It's common for one to be blocked and a boost valve put in the other.

Syncro's on 2nd can be a pain. Also getting into 1st. May need to double de-clutch.

Staggered offset wheels are a must. Otherwise the rears are about an inch too narrow on each side.

Take it for a long-ish run, 40mins is a must for overheating.

Looks for orange staining at the back of the engine bay (near the turbo). It'll be a coolant problem usually.

Also have a look under the rear bumper for damage, and the grille that covers the exhaust for dents/damage. I'll be obvious if it's had a knock.

Take off the slam pannel on the front and look for anything bent too. It's where the rad is and the mounts will be bent on any impact.

Very useful. I will make sure to check everything you have said when it comes to looking in a couple of months. Will take my mechanic with me to give it a thorough going over before any cash changes hands. Fingers crossed I will pick up a half decent one for 2.5-3k. Will post some pics when I get it.

Thanks for all the help mate, much appreciated.