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Arrrrgh....


stewyinpagham
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arrgh.jpg

Bu&*er. :crybaby: Now its decision time. :unsure:

Lasted 32K though before first proper flattie... I know only flat at the bottom.

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I know how you feel, it is horrible, I ripped my side wall after only a month of ownership.

The RF's just made me into a nutter waiting for a puncture.

I do feel much better though, having bought a set of normal wheels.

Go for it and change them !

Regards

arrgh.jpg

Bu&*er. :crybaby: Now its decision time. :unsure:

Lasted 32K though before first proper flattie... I know only flat at the bottom.

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It's the lamp coming on after 1 hour that would get to me. Is it as simple as just take the bulb out??

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No unfortunately not, it appears that the dash is made up of all LED type things.

Have been advised that maybe Toyota can do something with their diagnostics, but haven't had a chance yet to speak to them.

It truly is a dilemma.

Regards

It's the lamp coming on after 1 hour that would get to me. Is it as simple as just take the bulb out??
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Aghhh, I bought the Toyota that did'nt have all those electronic gizmo's and flashing lights on the dash... :crybaby: Mine has brakes that stop the vehicle and a throttle that does'nt stick open instead!!! Damb... did I choose the wrong model? :blink:

DaveH

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No unfortunately not, it appears that the dash is made up of all LED type things.

Have been advised that maybe Toyota can do something with their diagnostics, but haven't had a chance yet to speak to them.

It truly is a dilemma.

Regards

My suspicion is it is relatively simple, but I really need access to a T180 to confirm it. There would appear to be a single signal controlling the lamp. It is not a CAN bus message or anything as complex as that. I suspect the instrument pack detects an open circuit on this signal and probably turns the lamp on in that state. I suspect the pack also turns the lamp on when that signal is pulled to ground. Disconnecting the signal either from the pack or TPMS end of the harness and pulling it up to 12V may well put the lamp out.

However, As I said, I really need to do some probing about with a DVM/scope at the back of the pack on a T180 to confirm it or really see what is going on.

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Why oh why won't Toyota just play ball, there is a solution that does not cost them-just allow dealers to remove and replace with standard tyres. If they were feeling like generating goodwill (good timing I would say, they need it at the mo !!!) they could provide the T180 owners that do this with a puncture kit.

Hiding behind the 'changing vehicle spec. etc' in my view is cowardly and quite possibly incorrect.From one post I read it appeared that the 18" rims on the new SR are the same but without runflats.

Was going to write to them from a legal angle to pose that very question :bookworm: as I did not want to change the standard wheels, but quite honestly now fed up with the fact that they told dealer 'don't do it' and that lack of support is probably now going to make me move on to pastures new in terms of car maker, shame as this is my second Toyota RAV and always been happy until now. C'est la vie and maybe au revoir soon! :driving:

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Ha.

Phoned >>More-Than<< my insurance company and asked about changing the rims as I had pot-hole damage, so did I have to get replacement Toyota rims or could I use after-market replacements? The geezer on the phone, who was called "your talking to Dave, now how can I help you today", said "that's no problem as long as you don't get tires that are larger than 17" :jawdrop: "Mine are already 18 inch, out of the factory" says I.... So began the hour long waste of time with supervisors etc until I pointed out that in that case they had miss-sold me insurance and |I was entitled a full refund. 18inch suddenly was OK? GRRRRRRRR insurance companies.. give you an umbrella when it stops raining!!

As for the wiring, more than likely take the signal to the dash to 0v. Im gonna dabble with my "deflating tyre" so at least I don't have to wait 1 hour every time to check. Worst that happens when smoke escapes from the wires behind the dash, :blowup: is I reassemble carefully and Mr T has to tow it away and fix it under warranty... Tuff on them

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Just a reminder folkes.

I am having a meeting with TGB to discuss these RFTs just as soon as they have dealt with the current issues. Hopefully we will find a way forward with these things and rest assured I will discuss every aspect.

Just sit tight!!!

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Just a reminder folkes.

I am having a meeting with TGB to discuss these RFTs just as soon as they have dealt with the current issues. Hopefully we will find a way forward with these things and rest assured I will discuss every aspect.

Just sit tight!!!

My local Shell garages air line only reaches the edge of the forecourt... could I extend it with me garden 0's?? :D

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As for the wiring, more than likely take the signal to the dash to 0v.

No. As part of repair manual tests of the the indicator lamp on the pack, the lamp signal is pulled to ground and the lamp should come on. However, having looked closer, the mickey mouse schematic of the lamp control circuit in the instrument pack, shows a pull up resistor to Battery voltage (Vbat) - probably a means of lamp control signal open circuit detection.

One possibility is that there is a second pull down resistor in the TPMS ECU, which forms a potential divider with the resistor in the instrument pack. So, with the lamp off, the voltage at the instrument pack lamp input is somewhere between VBat and 0V (not 12V as I first stated) and there will be a window voltage comparitor in the pack to detect the signal voltage and turn the lamp on/off accordingly. An open collector transistor in the TPMS ECU will probably pull the signal to ground when it needs to turn the lamp on.

Need to apply a DVM to the connector pin on the pack to confirm. If this is the case (all theoretical), then it would need the signal wire disconnected at the pack and the signal input connected to ground through an appropriate value resistor.

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Just a reminder folkes.

I am having a meeting with TGB to discuss these RFTs just as soon as they have dealt with the current issues. Hopefully we will find a way forward with these things and rest assured I will discuss every aspect.

Just sit tight!!!

Thats great mate. i have only had the T180 5 hours and im already a nervous wreck regarding the RFTs lol

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As for the wiring, more than likely take the signal to the dash to 0v.

No. As part of repair manual tests of the the indicator lamp on the pack, the lamp signal is pulled to ground and the lamp should come on. However, having looked closer, the mickey mouse schematic of the lamp control circuit in the instrument pack, shows a pull up resistor to Battery voltage (Vbat) - probably a means of lamp control signal open circuit detection.

One possibility is that there is a second pull down resistor in the TPMS ECU, which forms a potential divider with the resistor in the instrument pack. So, with the lamp off, the voltage at the instrument pack lamp input is somewhere between VBat and 0V (not 12V as I first stated) and there will be a window voltage comparitor in the pack to detect the signal voltage and turn the lamp on/off accordingly. An open collector transistor in the TPMS ECU will probably pull the signal to ground when it needs to turn the lamp on.

Need to apply a DVM to the connector pin on the pack to confirm. If this is the case (all theoretical), then it would need the signal wire disconnected at the pack and the signal input connected to ground through an appropriate value resistor.

Beat me to it again SHCM, I was more or less going to say that.. :D Stew
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I feel for you Stew.

If I could have kept the std wheels without the BSR, without the need to use a grinder, I would have done. But Mr. T will not play ball.

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Beat me to it again SHCM, I was more or less going to say that.. :D Stew

Sorry Local, you being a former guru :arabia: and all that. You'll have to learn to type faster or I will type slower ;).

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Just Re Rang national Tyres and they say they can supply and fit a Bridestone RFT for £181??? Dont know how true this is but he says he can get it same day too.

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Just Re Rang national Tyres and they say they can supply and fit a Bridestone RFT for £181??? Dont know how true this is but he says he can get it same day too.

Well good luck. I don't want to rain on your parade but when this has happened in the past the distributor has niether understood that they need very expensive kit and that when he tries to order them even though they show on his system that he cannot. I hope I'm wrong!

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Is it me or does the warning light look like someone with their arms up surrendering?

and to think I was worried about my puncture repair kit, I just drive around with a aftermarket spare in the back.

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Is there a space saver wheel available that would fit the T180??

Don't think anyone has found one yet. Several owners are carrying around a full size spare. They pop up on e-bay every now and then.

I have an XTR and, as it has 17" wheels, it lays down flat to right of load area and just fits. Not sure of max. diameter of 18" wheel with tyre fitted but at least one member [DaveM I think :unsure: ] has his standing up between the rear seat and the load cover so that is an alternative.

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Is there a space saver wheel available that would fit the T180??

Don't think anyone has found one yet. Several owners are carrying around a full size spare. They pop up on e-bay every now and then.

I have an XTR and, as it has 17" wheels, it lays down flat to right of load area and just fits. Not sure of max. diameter of 18" wheel with tyre fitted but at least one member [DaveM I think :unsure: ] has his standing up between the rear seat and the load cover so that is an alternative.

See photo, you will lose about 20% of your boot space bit well worth it :thumbsup:

100_0802.jpg

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Is there a space saver wheel available that would fit the T180??

As far as we know there isn't. Don't be tempted by the CRV spacesaver as it is the wrong bore and although it will fit on the hub it is dangerous.

I've got some 17" wheels for sale;

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=107552

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cheers mate. I think im gonna run these tyres down a bit then just biuy a whole new set of new wheels and tyres and pop some tyre weld in the boot. OR get my mate to cut the saftey bands off and replace with normal tyres. Had thw car 2 days and im sick of the tyres already lol. PARANOID

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