Which 5w-30 Oil

[thomas_1980]

hi there

im in need of some oil, now the owners manuel recommends SAE 5w-30 for good fuel economy, now i have seen some magnatex oil 5w-30 in Halfords which has the fuel saving text on the front, quite expensive, what do you guys use?

[carlowlad]

hi there

im in need of some oil, now the owners manuel recommends SAE 5w-30 for good fuel economy, now i have seen some magnatex oil 5w-30 in halfords which has the fuel saving text on the front, quite expensive, what do you guys use?

I've used magnetex and it helped me save some fuel, but not a lot. Warmer weather could easily have accounted for that.

I have seen Mobil 1 FE available lately so i'll be using that at my next service. I'm not expecting miracles though.....heh

[alfiejts]

5w-30 is a good choice if your manual suggests it. Later models specified a 0w-30, but that's only good if the engine was designed for it. I ran my 2000 1.0 Yaris on 5w-30 for all its life with no issues.

What you need to look for is a logo "API SL" or "API SM". This is also quoted in the manual and is the exact specification of the oil which meets the standards Toyota specify.

As long as the oil has this specification on it, whatever the brand, it is good enough to meet Toyota's required standards.

What I do is go to my local Motor Factors (trade supplies), which you'll find in the yellow pages, and get my supplies at near trade prices.

The concensus is that its not really worth paying a lot extra for the well known brands.

I've used Magnatex beforfe and there's nothing wrong with it, but as you say its expensive and you don't have to spend as much for a quality oil that meets the required spec.

Mobil 1 is a fully synthetic oil, and again, its very good, but you pay a premium for the brand and any fully synthetic oil that meets the API SL or SM specs is manufactured to the requisite standards and specification that Toyota quote in the manual.

I pick up 5l of fully synthetic oil that meets the above spec for around £10.

I've started using fully synthetic oil, as it doesn't deteriorate like ordinary mineral oil, so I know that it fully protects for the full 12 months between services.

If you want to pay extra for the very best, then oilman at Opie Oils on this forum will suggest an ester based synthetic oil, as used in aero engines as the ultimate protection, but that is going to cost a premium...

My own view is to go with a "reasonably priced" fully synthetic that meets the required spec and you won't go far wrong - you're paying an unnecessary premium for the big names unless you happen to see them on offer at a competitive price (eg Costco, Makro, etc)

[thomas_1980]

5w-30 is a good choice if your manual suggests it. Later models specified a 0w-30, but that's only good if the engine was designed for it. I ran my 2000 1.0 Yaris on 5w-30 for all its life with no issues.

What you need to look for is a logo "API SL" or "API SM". This is also quoted in the manual and is the exact specification of the oil which meets the standards Toyota specify.

As long as the oil has this specification on it, whatever the brand, it is good enough to meet Toyota's required standards.

What I do is go to my local Motor Factors (trade supplies), which you'll find in the yellow pages, and get my supplies at near trade prices.

The concensus is that its not really worth paying a lot extra for the well known brands.

I've used Magnatex beforfe and there's nothing wrong with it, but as you say its expensive and you don't have to spend as much for a quality oil that meets the required spec.

Mobil 1 is a fully synthetic oil, and again, its very good, but you pay a premium for the brand and any fully synthetic oil that meets the API SL or SM specs is manufactured to the requisite standards and specification that Toyota quote in the manual.

I pick up 5l of fully synthetic oil that meets the above spec for around £10.

I've started using fully synthetic oil, as it doesn't deteriorate like ordinary mineral oil, so I know that it fully protects for the full 12 months between services.

If you want to pay extra for the very best, then oilman at opieoils on this forum will suggest an ester based synthetic oil, as used in aero engines as the ultimate protection, but that is going to cost a premium...

My own view is to go with a "reasonably priced" fully synthetic that meets the required spec and you won't go far wrong - you're paying an unnecessary premium for the big names unless you happen to see them on offer at a competitive price (eg Costco, Makro, etc)

Hi there thanks for that info, that should help me, i did manage to get a free 1 litre of Shell oil from toyota when i have the recall pedal done, cant seem to find this in Halfords or anyplace to buy yet.

Its Shell helix 5w-30 says fuel efficiency on it, no logos you speak of, nor ones that match the owners manuel but it does say on the back - API Sj-ILSAC GF2, ACEA A1/B1

Although it says API it does not say API SL which you mentioned, is it still the same thing?

many thamks

[alfiejts]

The standards move on with time, one letter at a time.... API SJ was the previous one to SK, which was before SL....

My 2008 Yaris manual says SL or SM, so I wouldn't use an SJ for mine, but your manual may well say that SJ is OK if yours is an older car.

Have a look in your owners manual and see what API spec it says for yours. As long as the letters are the same or "higher" than your manual says, you'll be OK...

Having said that, using the litre you have as a "top up" isn't going to cause a problem, but for a full oil change that's expected to last 12 months or 10000 miles, I'd use the proper spec.....

[thomas_1980]

The standards move on with time, one letter at a time.... API SJ was the previous one to SK, which was before SL....

My 2008 Yaris manual says SL or SM, so I wouldn't use an SJ for mine, but your manual may well say that SJ is OK if yours is an older car.

Have a look in your owners manual and see what API spec it says for yours. As long as the letters are the same or "higher" than your manual says, you'll be OK...

Having said that, using the litre you have as a "top up" isn't going to cause a problem, but for a full oil change that's expected to last 12 months or 10000 miles, I'd use the proper spec.....

Ok cool, thank you for replying, the manel says SAE 5w-30 SL or SM, or ILSAC so guess its same as yours. Mines only a 2006 T2.

Ill go over to Halfords again tonight now i know a little more what to look for, ill try not over pay, i think they have some offers on

[Raeman]

Thomas, if you go to your local Toyota dealership you will be able to buy some quality oil from the parts desk.

Bet it's loads cheaper than Halfrauds! ;)

[tzepesch]

Hello gents,

after a consistent research on the romanian motoroil market, I would definetly recomend this oil, and nothing else anymore: MOTUL 8100 Eco-Energy 5W30 or Motul 8100 Eco-Clean 5w30 or Motul 8100 Eco-Clean + 5w30

In my Auris User Manual, for my D4D Euro4 2Lit Engine, 1AD-FTV, it is specified to use an ACEA B1 / API CF 5w30 oil. And the one above meets those standards.

I'm absolutly sure thar you'll find this type of oil on youre markets as well.

The standard oil that lubes my engine right now is Toyota Fuel Economy 5w30.

What's you're oppinion of that?

please pard my "aborigian" english.

[Mistermena]

You can get a 5ltr container of Mobil 1 ESP (Green cap 5w-30 C2 spec, VW 507 00) off eBay for about £26. I bought some off a guy on there and they were brand new sealed as you expect to buy from places like Halfords ect. ASDA were selling it a while back for £32, but I don't think they stock it anymore as it looks like they sell Castrol EDGE instead of it now along with own branded stuff.

Like said Costco sell Castro EDGE for £19.99 plus VAT at the min. But EDGE doesn't meet the C2 spec as ESP does, but they both meet the highest VW 507 00 spec.

[Madasafish]

I buy my oil from our local Toyota dealer: Pinkstones. Last time I bought filters as well: oil cost under £14 for semi synthetic Toyota 5-30W..

Fully synthetic oil is overkill if not specified by the maker and as I change mine (and filter) every 5k miles, synthetic would be a waste of money..

[RS4]

hi there

im in need of some oil, now the owners manuel recommends SAE 5w-30 for good fuel economy, now i have seen some magnatex oil 5w-30 in halfords which has the fuel saving text on the front, quite expensive, what do you guys use?

I carry out my own servicing on my 2007 Yaris D4D, and use Quantum Platinum 5w 40 which has ACEA A3/B4/C3 approvals. Its fully synthetic (probably has Group III base stocks), is made by Castrol and costs approximately £15 for 5 litres from TPS.

My manual states 5w 30 is preferred with ACEA B1 and API CF-4 (now obsolete) or CF (now obsolete) approvals. ACEA A1/B1 oils are of low friction and viscosity and must provide a minimum fuel economy improvement of 2.5% over a 15w 40 oil. However, when looking at the ACEA oil sequences, A1/B1 oils have a higher degree of permissible wear than A3/B4 oils. The Quantum Platinum also has the VW 505.01 approval for PD engines, so should provide a high degree of wear protection for the cams and followers etc.

[Cherry Red Pocket Rocket]

I bought some premium silkolene from Opie Oils for my Yaris. Nothing but the very best will do! Especially when you consider that the engine is the most important part of the car and the amount of mileage that you can do before you need an oil change. When you consider those factors, a premium fully synthetic oil is well worth it and works out to pennies per mile.

[Cyker]

Woo, LTNS :D

[RS4]

I try and avoid using phrases like "only the best will do" and "premium quality oil" as I am not a suitably qualified and experienced Triboligist. One of the brands quoted in a previous post has ACEA A3/B3, API SJ/SL/CF approvals, has no OEM approvals and costs about £50 plus for a 5 litre pack. API CF is now obsolete and ACEA A3/B3 oils don't provide the performance levels of a A3/B4 oil. So, I can't see the point in spending £50 on an ester synthetic oil that has lower approvals than something like Quantum Platinum which has A3/B4/C3 approvals, is fully synthetic (probably a Group III base oil), has OEM approvals and costs about £15 for 5 litres. Don't be drawn in by the high price, the fancy packaging and the marketing BS. Look at the standards.

[Mistermena]

I buy my oil from our local Toyota dealer: Pinkstones. Last time I bought filters as well: oil cost under £14 for semi synthetic Toyota 5-30W..

Fully synthetic oil is overkill if not specified by the maker and as I change mine (and filter) every 5k miles, synthetic would be a waste of money..

I service my car every 6k and still use Mobil 1 ESP. I'd never use a semi-synth oil as you've no idea how much synth is in it. It could be 50%/70% or 10%. But thats just me. I like to know that I have a top grade oil running round my engine

[sheldon b]

I used both Motul 5W30 fully synthetic and Fuchs synthetic on my D4d. Purchased from the oilman in Cornwall at a good price. I very rarely use semi synthetic if I do it myself.

[Madasafish]

So I guess Toyota are wrong in specifying a semi synthetic oil - and all those people with full Toyota SH using 5-30 semii synthetic Toyota oil who have done over 100k miles with no noticeable wear are just lucky..

is what many of you are saying to me..

:-)

I'm dumb. I'll just stick to Toyota standards..

[sheldon b]

Good point Masasafish .The first toyota service dept., I used told me that they use 10w40 semi synthetic in the car anyway. If you drove a Merc or VW the oil would be far more specific and exspensive.

[acetip]

Good point Masasafish .The first toyota service dept., I used told me that they use 10w40 semi synthetic in the car anyway. If you drove a Merc or VW the oil would be far more specific and exspensive.

this discussion on oils has been going on for ages on these forums.

the oil your toyota dealer puts in your sump at a service is unlikly to be the oil they sell over the counter,thats packaged as toyota oil,which could be Castrol,mobil etc depending where toyota get the best current deal.

your dealers workshop will use an oil to meet toyotas spec,that they can make the best profit margin with.

as already said whats semi synthetic? there is no semi standard could be any percentage thats synthetic.but if you buy an oil that meets toyota spec,wether its fully or semi synthetic and its by one of the well known producers your not going to be far wrong.

if someone feels happier with a fully synthetic oil,(as i do) which you can buy cheaper on eBay than someone buying a semi synthetic from say Halfords thats there choice.

its all personel choice.

[RS4]

So I guess Toyota are wrong in specifying a semi synthetic oil - and all those people with full Toyota SH using 5-30 semii synthetic Toyota oil who have done over 100k miles with no noticeable wear are just lucky..

is what many of you are saying to me..

:-)

I'm dumb. I'll just stick to Toyota standards..

My owners manual for the 2007 Yaris D4D does not state whether mineral oil, semi synthetic oil or fully synthetic oil should be used. It just provides the required approvals (i.e. ACEA B1, API CF-4 or CF) and states a viscosity of 5w 30 is preferred, however other viscosities may be used.

I don't know how you would quantify "no noticeable wear" unless you have stripped down a number of 100k engines, measured the engine components, and compared the results to the manufacturers tolerances.

As stated before, I am not a Triboligist, but looking the ACEA oil sequences it can be observed that oils meeting certain approvals must provide a higher degree of wear protection during testing. So, an A3/B4 oil would be expected to provide more wear protection than a B1 oil, as it must have demonstrated A3/B4 levels of wear protection during testing. However, a B1 oil is likely to provide better fuel economy than a A3/B4 oil.

In my opinion, just like any other engineering problem, its about matching the demand placed on a material with its capacity.

The demand on my car is 30k plus motorway miles per year, and I'll keep the car till it dies. So for me, engine life/wear protection is more important than fuel economy, and therefore I'll stick to an A3/B4 fully synthetic oil.

[mrpj]

I buy my oil from our local Toyota dealer: Pinkstones. Last time I bought filters as well: oil cost under £14 for semi synthetic Toyota 5-30W..

I bought some this morning to renew at 6 months along with filter, be prepared! It's now £16.88/5 litre.

Toyota recommend it and Pinkstones use it plus it's good for 10k miles or 12 months, so that'll do me. Why pay more unnecessarily?

[Parts-King]

The oil in my deep fat fryer was more expensive than that

I actually agree with a few on here, the Toyota "pack" oils are very good, at a good price, but there are very many oils out there that have clever marketing, and offer very little more protection than something half the price. If you go along with the manufacturers spec you wont go far wrong

Kingo

[acetip]

The oil in my deep fat fryer was more expensive than that

I actually agree with a few on here, the Toyota "pack" oils are very good, at a good price, but there are very many oils out there that have clever marketing, and offer very little more protection than something half the price. If you go along with the manufacturers spec you wont go far wrong

Kingo

Hi Kingo,oil is cheaper than bearings,so go for quality,not cos its cheaper.you can get good oils at a cheaper price on eBay than you would pay at say Halfords for same product.

[Parts-King]

Expensive is not always good Acetip, that is my personal observation, good can be had for less, which I think is what you are saying

[Whiteclaw]

So what is the difference between synthetic and semi synthetic? What do the 5W mean etc on the bottles?

What should I be getting for a 95 Rav?