Door Switch For Interior Light

[rdmbfossa]

Hi, wondered if someone could help with the part number for the door switch for the interior light. Is is just exactly the same switch as the drivers door?

Thank you.

[Airman]

Yes it is, done mine last year, its a must do really.

Y84231-0D030 switch 9.25

Y90901-48003 bolt 2.22

[ihpj]

I would like to try this but I'm not keen on cutting and splicing wires :P

[Raistlin]

You only splice one wire, All I did was splice in to the live side of the drivers side run the cable down and under the carpet and up the other side to the passengers side switch.

It took less than twenty minutes and worked a treat, I then added a delay module on the interior light and changed the bulb for a brighter LED one.

I then extended a wire from the live feed on the passenger side and ran it behind the panels to the boot and added a reed switch wire to another LED lamp held on with velcro to the carpet finish on the wall of the boot.

A tiny bar magnet is glued to the glass above the reed switch and when the magnet is moved ie "open the boot" the boot light comes on.

I got my bits from Maplins for less than £ 20.00 or if you want you could drill a hole in the boot frame and add a push to break switch instead.

I only used a reed switch so I didn't have to drill my baby

[rolfieboy]

Hi all

Sorry to resurect an old thread, but, i have just put a switch in on my wifes' Aygo.

It must be the most cheapest, easiest and effective mod i have ever done, especially for £10.

I am trying to find the rear switches, does anyone know where i may find them?

I have tried a well known auction site but they are £27! which i am not willing to pay.

Any help i appreciated

[rajivrattna]

Conrad in Uk has them. I bought 2 such switches from Conrad in Sweden. It is white and round.

http://www.conrad.se/D%d6RRBRYTARE-FRONTTJOCKLEK-1%2d2%2c6-MM.htm?websale7=conrad-sweπ=707210&ci=SHOP_AREA_17384_0216610&Ctx=%7Bver%2F7%2Fver%7D%7Bst%2F3ec%2Fst%7D%7Bcmd%2F0%2Fcmd%7D%7Bm%2Fwebsale%2Fm%7D%7Bs%2Fconrad-swe%2Fs%7D%7Bl%2F01-aa%2Fl%7D%7Bsf%2F%3Cs1%3Earcolectric%3C%2Fs1%3E%2Fsf%7D%7Bp1%2F72385fd064fcfde964a6283c99a90a77%2Fp1%7D%7Bmd5%2F0beda77ae4685075201571959fb416e8%2Fmd5%7D

[Raistlin]

Mr T sells them for around a tenner

[another_pleb]

You only splice one wire, All I did was splice in to the live side of the drivers side run the cable down and under the carpet and up the other side to the passengers side switch.

How do you go about running a wire under the carpet? Do you need to take the seats out and lift the carpet up?

[rolfieboy]

All i did was remove the trim on both rear door sills and force the carpet up and feed the wire under.

Did mine in approx 15 mins.

Cant believe Toyota dont do this as standard, it would cost them pence by buying in bulk.

Now to tackle the rear doors!

[rolfieboy]

Conrad in Uk has them. I bought 2 such switches from Conrad in Sweden. It is white and round.

http://www.conrad.se...b416e8%2Fmd5%7D

Many thanks. 2 ordered

[rolfieboy]

Just found this if it any good to anyone

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-AYGO-PEUGEOT-107-CITROEN-C1-DOOR-LIGHT-SWITCH-BOLT-/260943899196?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cc177ea3c

[rajivrattna]

Conrad has even these for the front passenger door.

Don't buy the front door switch from Conrad, because thet do not fit. The holes do not match our cars. The back door switches from Conrad in my earlier link are OK. I have fitted them.

[Raistlin]

You only splice one wire, All I did was splice in to the live side of the drivers side run the cable down and under the carpet and up the other side to the passengers side switch.

How do you go about running a wire under the carpet? Do you need to take the seats out and lift the carpet up?

Run the spliced wire down from the rear panel to the carpet near the to the rear seat, lift the carpet and run the lead under the seat pull it up under the side panel and thread through to the passenger switch, Simples

[rajivrattna]

The switches from Conrad have plus and minus poles and that would mean that one is connected to the live wire from the driver's door and the other is connected to a wire going to the cars ground. Is that a right approach? I have not yet connected mine since it is minus 5 deg C out side just now. Waiting for a better weather.

[rolfieboy]

Sounds about right as the front switches have just one terminal and the body of the switch must act as the ground

[ScottNic]

Hi, my first post on the forum - so hello! I've just fitted the passenger side switch to my wife's '07 Aygo Black. I got it from Toyota along with the Torx head bolt for £17. Also fitted a delay switch and what a difference it makes. She's delighted.

[ianblue]

Hi Scott, welcome to the forum.

Yey , that's a very welcome addition.

Its the first car I've had, when I felt it necessary to carry out so many additions.

So far ;

Passenger door light switch

Glovebox lid

Glovebox light

Boot light

Foot well lighting (not exactly essential)

Ian

[rajivrattna]

I have bought the three extra switches but have not wired them. How do you remove the interior plastic trim to reach the switch mounting point? The trim seems to be held by seat belt fastening bolt. Are there any tricky bolts or plastic fastners?Do I remove them too? I have a five door which means three extra switches to fit.

[rajivrattna]

I have bought the three extra switches but have not wired them. How do you remove the interior plastic trim to reach the switch mounting point? The trim seems to be held by seat belt fastening bolt. Do I remove them too? Are there any tricky bolts or plastic fastners? I have a five door which means three extra switches to fit.

[ScottNic]

Hi Rajiv, sorry I can't help you there as the wife's car is a 3 door. the trim just prised away pretty easily & popped straight back into place. No bolts or tricky fasteners of any sort.

[rajivrattna]

Admin,

Could you please delete my post number 18. I somehow double posted while editing. Sorry!

[MikeSh]

I have bought the three extra switches but have not wired them. How do you remove the interior plastic trim to reach the switch mounting point? The trim seems to be held by seat belt fastening bolt. Are there any tricky bolts or plastic fastners?Do I remove them too? I have a five door which means three extra switches to fit.

I don't know about the rears, but for the fronts the lower centre pillar trims (on mine) are not held by the seat belt fasteners. Basically you need to pull the rubber seal *** away (both doors) to release the edges of the plastic part. The bottom is held in by two plastic pops - from the front door pull the trim toward the seat until you can see the pop, then stick a screwdriver in and lever it out of the hole. Repeat for the other pop from the rear door. This will probably give enough access, but if you need more you'll need to wiggle and pull to release the lower, grey, trim from the upper one to which it is clipped - obviously some risk here so not recommended unless you have to.

*** Beware! the seals have some non-setting cream sealant gunge inside which is left on the now exposed seams. It's a so-and-so if it gets on your clothes/arms and even more so if they then get it on your upholstery. Take care.

The rear doors must use a different switch (again looking at mine) as the plugged hole is just a single round one, whereas the passenger one (as for the driver's) has a hole plus a tapped hole for the screw.

[rajivrattna]

I have bought the three extra switches but have not wired them. How do you remove the interior plastic trim to reach the switch mounting point? The trim seems to be held by seat belt fastening bolt. Are there any tricky bolts or plastic fastners?Do I remove them too? I have a five door which means three extra switches to fit.

I don't know about the rears, but for the fronts the lower centre pillar trims (on mine) are not held by the seat belt fasteners. Basically you need to pull the rubber seal *** away (both doors) to release the edges of the plastic part. The bottom is held in by two plastic pops - from the front door pull the trim toward the seat until you can see the pop, then stick a screwdriver in and lever it out of the hole. Repeat for the other pop from the rear door. This will probably give enough access, but if you need more you'll need to wiggle and pull to release the lower, grey, trim from the upper one to which it is clipped - obviously some risk here so not recommended unless you have to. *** Beware! the seals have some non-setting cream sealant gunge inside which is left on the now exposed seams. It's a so-and-so if it gets on your clothes/arms and even more so if they then get it on your upholstery. Take care. The rear doors must use a different switch (again looking at mine) as the plugged hole is just a single round one, whereas the passenger one (as for the driver's) has a hole plus a tapped hole for the screw.

Thank you for your help. I have the two different sorts of switches both bought cheaply from the Conrad web shop. The trim near the rear seems to be the tricky one with the seat belt bolt. I'll give it a try this week end.

[rajivrattna]

There seems to be two ways of sorting out this problem with the simple light delay unit and multiple door switch which together being functionally incompatible in the MMT-Aygo.

1) Use a little more advanced and expensive Time delay unit that switches off the interior light as soon as current is detected in the ignition wire as you turn the starter motor. here is the link for such.

http://catalog.hella...ungsrelais.html

2) the other easier method that can be used is to have a separate extra light (fixed on the ceiling or the side wall of the car) powered by the red wire from the dome light and the negative side connected to the non driver door switches (3 in my case). The non driver doors will activate it. Since it has no delay unit it will shut off on closing the non driver door/doors. The drivers door switch can be used as it is, just switching the original dome light with the cheap delay attached to the original dome light to let the driver find his key hole in dark. That way, only the driver's door has the delay while the non drivers door have the extra light but no delay.

[MikeSh]

If you are trying to avoid the problem with the MMT 'in gear' alarm being activated by the lamp delay then method 2 will only help insofar that the 3 passenger doors won't operate the delay unit. The delay on the drivers door will still trigger the alarm as long as the light is on.

Actually, if fitting rear door switches I'd be inclined to wire them to a separate light in the centre/back anyway as the OEM light is rather far away to be much help in the back.