Fitting A Parrot Ck3100 To An Aygo Black

[S_J_P]

This is how I fitted a Parott CK3100 bluetooth kit to my '10 plate Aygo Black and thought it may help others who want to undertake similar installations.

1) Pry-off the heater fan knob

2) Remove the facia securing screw behind the heater fan knob

3) Pry-up the bottom edge of the facia far enough to…

4) …get your fingers underneath, the pull sharply until the lower set of facia securing clips disengage

5) Move your fingers up until they're level with the radio, and pull again to release the upper set of facia clips

6) Now disengage the top-middle catch by raising the facia from its lower edge, and rotate the facia down to rest on the lower facia heater controls

7) Remove the A pillar trim by prying away from the roof-lining at the top

8) Pull the A pillar trim away

9) Tilt the A pillar trim forwards so that the lower edge nearest you rises out of the dash, and then remove the trim (it will still be attached by the speaker wire so either remove this, or rest the trim on the dash still connected.)

10) From the void behind the radio facia, thread the Parrot microphone through the opening at the top-right (Immediately to the left of the large loop of cable in the picture, you can just about see a small blue connector in the opening) and drop it down into the front footwell.

11) Using a stiff piece of cable or wire, find a path down from the A-Pillar to the footwell between the relays located in the void exposed by the removal of the A pillar trim.

12) Attach the microphone to the stiff wire, and pull it up from the footwell to the A pillar area.

13) Secure the microphone cable to the existing interior light cable where it rises along the A pillar

14) Remove the interior light assembly by prying at the cut-out on the right hand side.

15) Extract the interior light to gain access behind the headlining.

16) Carefully pry the headlining away from the windscreen and poke the microphone wire behind. You can remove the visor mount and push the cable behind before resecuring the visor to hold the cables out of the way.

17) When you reach the interior light area, release the headlining clip by pulling gently, and then pass the microphone into the void behind the headlining and bring it out through the interior light opening.

18) Replace the A pillar trip by locating the lower front edge, and then pulling backwards to locate the lower back edge into the dashboard. Then locate both the middle guide pin and the upper clip in their relevant holes in the A pillar (Note: passing the microphone cable behind the upper clip will help hold the cable behind the headlining).

19) Run your finger behind the rubber door-seal to ensure it is placed on top of the A pillar trim.

20) Secure the microphone to the headlining next to the interior light, use a thumb & finger both inside and outside the headlining to ensure the adhesive pad (if used) is secure, don't press on the outside of the headlining or it will deform.

21) Ensure that the headlining clip is back in place, and then replace the interior light assembly. I passed the microphone cable through the pry cutout, but you could make a dedicated hole.

22)Pull the microphone cable back into the void behind the radio so that there is no slack in the footwell area, and secure it under the dashboard.

23)Remove the back of the Parrot CK3100 display unit by undoing the two securing screws and hinging up from the bottom, and remove the multipin plug from the PCB.

24)Remove the cutout for rear cable entry on the rear of the casing

25) Looking down into the void behind the radio facia, locate the top of the grey plastic cubby beneath the heater controls and then cut a hole of sufficient size to accommodate the multipin plug and grommet from the Parrot CK3100 display unit.

26) Pass the multipin plug through the hole you have just made in the cubby and plug it back into the display unit, re-secure the back, and fit the mounting-bracket.

27) Bend the mounting bracket frame so that the desired viewing angle is achieved when mounted on the cubby top edge. In the photo, the front frame leg has been bent, the rear is in its original position.

28) Secure the display unit cable to the mounting bracket so that the cable is not visible from the front.

29) Affix the bracket and display to the top edge of the cubby using either the supplied adhesive pads or screws.

30) Pull the display unit cable back into the void behind the radio to ensure there is no slack in the cubby.

31) Find a suitable position for the Parrots blue control box, black power relay, and the associated wiring and tuck everything out of the way. Make sure nothing will rattle! When finding a suitable position, please remember to consider the location of the radio when the facia is reattached.

32)Disconnect the power and audio ISO connectors from the rear of the radio, and plug them into the Parrots trailing sockets, then plug the Parrots trailing plugs into the rear of the radio. Note that the plugs/sockets are polarised (different locations of clips) so they cannot be incorrectly inserted.

33)Check that there aren't any cables which will be caught and then replace the radio facia. There's a support of the rear of the radio which must locate in a hole at the rear of the opening, so move the whole radio facia squarely into the opening, and then locate the top-middle facia clip and lower the facia into position carefully re-securing first the middle and then the lower facia clips.

34)Replace the facia securing screw and the heater fan knob, sit back and admire your work.

[Raistlin]

An excellent write up, worthy of pinning

[Jan van de Wouw]

Just one small tip: the void in between the headliner and windscreen is quite loose: I've had cables fall out several times.

That's why I now remove the visor and its clip and pull the cable past the mountings, so it lies between the headliner and the roof.

A little extra work, but it can save you a lot of annoyance. Especially when you have 3 or 4 extra wires there like I do :P

[S_J_P]

Just one small tip: the void in between the headliner and windscreen is quite loose: I've had cables fall out several times.

That's why I now remove the visor and its clip and pull the cable past the mountings, so it lies between the headliner and the roof.

A little extra work, but it can save you a lot of annoyance. Especially when you have 3 or 4 extra wires there like I do :P

That sounds like an excellent idea, the first time my cables begin to dangle I'll do what you suggest!

[baza103]

An excellent step by step guide.

[Loftylad]

What a superb guide !

I installed my Bury9060 handsfree a couple of years ago and didn't think about taking pics until afterwards!

Well done mate, Im sure your guide will help a lot of users on here

[Phoenix999]

What a nice clear 'write up'

I had the same Parrot kit installed in my Land Cruiser and it is great and I would recommend it to anyone. I hope you get good service from it

[S_J_P]

I've since moved the display to the centre of the console as I kept hitting it with my knee and knocking it off :ffs:

Anyone with long-legs should consider doing the same!