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4.2 Rear Springs - Which Is Correct Way Up?


tash2007
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Hi

following on from other "discoveries" of bodge that some monkey has done to my RAV.... :censor: :censor:

as per title really - one end has the coils ground flat, the other hasn't - which end goes where??

Cheers

Jim

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I just changed mine cos it failed its MOT because of a broken offside spring. (changed both anyway) The flat end goes to the top. :thumbsup:

The garage wanted £199 to change the broken one only "that price because its a big job".

After a wee look on here I learned that it could be done by taking off the bottom shock absorber mount and also the lower end of the anti-roll bar tie rod. Took around 40 mins each side - so thanks again forum chums!

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Hi

following on from other "discoveries" of bodge that some monkey has done to my RAV.... :censor: :censor:

as per title really - one end has the coils ground flat, the other hasn't - which end goes where??

Cheers

Jim

if you take a look at google ' images ' at Rav4 coil springs , it would seem that most coil springs have that flat ground end at the base,i reckon its so the spring lies flat & true in its locator.

Shows it better on ' Old man emu ' pictures.

Ok so i am wrong,just shows marketing pic's arnt always how stuff should be installed :rolleyes: ....just trying to help

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This diagram might help. You will find that it only properly fits the correct way;

rear spring.pdf

"properly fits" yes that is the issue....

from your diagram it seems the ground end is at the base - correct?

if so mine are currently in upside down.... :blink:

Jim

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This diagram might help. You will find that it only properly fits the correct way;

rear spring.pdf

"properly fits" yes that is the issue....

from your diagram it seems the ground end is at the base - correct?

if so mine are currently in upside down.... :blink:

Jim

from mr T's parts database:-

which shows the spring apparently the other way up to Anchormans PDF :unsure: :unsure:

:help:

Jim

post-33744-0-77835900-1319575464_thumb.j

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That diagram of yours looks like a strut to me with a shocker inside the spring. Does it look Ok compared to the other side? Usually the open side of the coil goes into the shaped insulator.

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When I changed mine yesterday, the flat end was at the top and sat into a circular rubber insulator which is also flat. The end of the bottom of the spring sits into a slight recess moulded into the top of the suspension arm so it can only go in one position. There's a platic tube approx 150mm long around the bottom coil of the spring.

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When I changed mine yesterday, the flat end was at the top and sat into a circular rubber insulator which is also flat. The end of the bottom of the spring sits into a slight recess moulded into the top of the suspension arm so it can only go in one position. There's a platic tube approx 150mm long around the bottom coil of the spring.

thanks Turco - did the plastic tube come with the new spring? if so was it a "genuine" spring? mine are Sachs and didn't come with anything.... how thick is the tubing would you say?

Cheers

Jim

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That diagram of yours looks like a strut to me with a shocker inside the spring. Does it look Ok compared to the other side? Usually the open side of the coil goes into the shaped insulator.

I see what you mean re the small corner diagram but the part numbers do match up with ToyoDIY's...

Also your PDF shows a 2wd if that makes any difference? :unsure: :unsure:

Spose it ultimately all depends on the shape of the insulators - which I'll get soon..

The recess in the body where the spring insulator will sit is a D shaped "1/2 round" in section - as if to receive the top coil of the spring - hence my query..

Cheers

Jim

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Tash,

The springs were german made Suplex - got them off internet for £28 each. The plastic tube around the bottom was approx 1-1.5mm thick and was already fitted to the new springs. The orignal springs had a thinner, harder black plastic tube around the bottom which was split along its length and had a series of small (2mm ish) holes in it.

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Tash,

The springs were german made Suplex - got them off internet for £28 each. The plastic tube around the bottom was approx 1-1.5mm thick and was already fitted to the new springs. The orignal springs had a thinner, harder black plastic tube around the bottom which was split along its length and had a series of small (2mm ish) holes in it.

Sounds a good deal Turco, hope they work out well for you - what was the internet source? (should I need more sometime :rolleyes:)

Today I tried to drop the rear arms to get the springs out/get the top insulators on but failed at the last hurdle:crybaby: the rear anti roll bar link GRRRR!

I managed to get the upper of the two ARB droplink nuts off, but then couldn't figure how to get the AR Bar off of the droplink :censor: Seemed I needed to "line up" the droplink with the ARbar to enable them to "fall apart" but whatever I tried (in the time I had) the two were at awkward angles to each other and wouldn't come apart :censor:

How did you do it Turco? was it similar exercise to get em back in? any tips please? :thumbsup:

Anyone else got some ideas please pile in - I'm so nearly there it;s not true!! :help:

Cheers

Jim /Tash

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I bought them from carfactorsuk through their eBay site - item number 370536349955, £28.21 each.

I jacked the body of the car up then removed the rear wheel. then put a block of wood under the rear hub and lowered the body back down again so that all the weight was back on the hub and the car was at almost its normal height. The anti-roll bar was therefore not under any strain. Took off the lower shock absorber bolt and pushed the unit off the mounting. To remove the lower tie bar fixing, put an allen key into the end of the bolt to stop it from turning and slackened the 14mm nut leaving it on a few threads. Had to raise the body a touch to make sure there was no tension on the tie bar, then removed the nut. Jacked the body back up and let the suspension arm drop right down. To get the spring off, I had to pull the rubber bump stop insert out of the holder to allow the spring to angle out as I pulled it out. Refitting was straightforward, making sure the top insulator rubber was located properly and that the end of the bottom of the spring was in the recess in the suspension arm.

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I bought them from carfactorsuk through their ebay site - item number 370536349955, £28.21 each.

I jacked the body of the car up then removed the rear wheel. then put a block of wood under the rear hub and lowered the body back down again so that all the weight was back on the hub and the car was at almost its normal height. The anti-roll bar was therefore not under any strain. Took off the lower shock absorber bolt and pushed the unit off the mounting. To remove the lower tie bar fixing, put an allen key into the end of the bolt to stop it from turning and slackened the 14mm nut leaving it on a few threads. Had to raise the body a touch to make sure there was no tension on the tie bar, then removed the nut. Jacked the body back up and let the suspension arm drop right down. To get the spring off, I had to pull the rubber bump stop insert out of the holder to allow the spring to angle out as I pulled it out. Refitting was straightforward, making sure the top insulator rubber was located properly and that the end of the bottom of the spring was in the recess in the suspension arm.

Thanks for all that Turco, I appreciate it :thumbsup:

I'll give it all another go at the weekend I expect - don't disappear now :D

Cheers

Jim

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I bought them from carfactorsuk through their ebay site - item number 370536349955, £28.21 each.

Strangely when I looked at the eBay item it says this in the description:-

Spring Type: AB (Top - Cropped, Bottom - Ground)

:unsure: :censor:

Seems the only consistency is the inconsistency :D

Jim

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Hi

quick update - done :beer:

coil insulators in and working nicely - no more squeaky creaking noises from the back :thumbsup:

Yes the springs only go in one way, "ground/tapered" end to the top :yes:

The insulators sit on top of the ground/tapered end and locate into the recess in the body :yes:

Curiously the pass side took ages but drivers took 30mins start to finish - spring seemed to come out a lot easier than pass. side - oh well.

Thankyou to everyone who contributed to the thread and for all the help (and patience :D )

Cheers :cheers:

Jim

Now onto my next post about front end ARB links wearing out prematurely.... :rolleyes:

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