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Maintenance/improvements - 4.3/4.2


anchorman
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Difficulty - Easy

Time - About 10 minutes

Tools - Pressure washer, Engine Degreaser

Introduction

Every self respecting RAV owner wants a clean engine but most people are intimidated by the thought of using a pressure washer in an engine bay. In fact this is exactly how second hand cars are prepared for sale and providing common sence is used there is absolutely no reason why this should not be done. To clean the engine a degreaser will need to be applied. The common ones are Gunk or Jizer but there are many more soluble degreasers on the market. Some come in an aerosol and some can be sprayed on with an old houshold spray bottle.

Petrols and diesels can be done but if earlier petrols with a distributor won't start after, just take the distributor cap off and wipe out any condensation with some kitchen roll. Later ones without a distributor will not be effected.

Procedure

Allow the engine to cool as it is not a good idea to spray degreaser onto a very hot exhaust. Choose a place where oily residue will not adversly effect the drive surface and lift the bonnet. If there is an accessory alarm cover it with a polythene bag and seal it with elastic bands.

Spray the solution over the engine bay starting at the bottom and finishing with the inside of the open bonnet;

applydegreaser.jpg

Make sure it is all done including down the front by the radiator and the tops of the inner wings. Leave it for five or ten minutes to allow it to soak in to the grime. Use the power washer to blast it off;

IMG_1124.jpg

Avoid dwelling on electrical connectors and the grommets where the ignition leads go into the head. Also avoid dwelling on the brake fluid chamber (but be sure to do it) and the oil dip stick. Everything can be done but just do the above parts briefly. Everything is weather proof under there - imagine the turmoil when driving through a storm so don't be put off!

Afterwards use a leather or old towel to wipe off the excess water. Then start the engine so that the heat will dry off the remainder;

IMG_1128.jpg

When everything is dry apply a few drops of oil to the bonnet hinges and the bonnet catch. Nothing else requires lubrication. Then stand back and admire........

IMG_1131.jpg

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Difficulty - Easy

Time - About 10 minutes

Tools - Pressure washer, Engine Degreaser

Introduction

Every self respecting RAV owner wants a clean engine but most people are intimidated by the thought of using a pressure washer in an engine bay. In fact this is exactly how second hand cars are prepared for sale and providing common sence is used there is absolutely no reason why this should not be done. To clean the engine a degreaser will need to be applied. The common ones are Gunk or Jizer but there are many more soluble degreasers on the market. Some come in an aerosol and some can be sprayed on with an old houshold spray bottle.

Petrols and diesels can be done but if earlier petrols with a distributor won't start after, just take the distributor cap off and wipe out any condensation with some kitchen roll. Later ones without a distributor will not be effected.

Procedure

Allow the engine to cool as it is not a good idea to spray degreaser onto a very hot exhaust. Choose a place where oily residue will not adversly effect the drive surface and lift the bonnet. If there is an accessory alarm cover it with a polythene bag and seal it with elastic bands.

Spray the solution over the engine bay starting at the bottom and finishing with the inside of the open bonnet;

applydegreaser.jpg

Make sure it is all done including down the front by the radiator and the tops of the inner wings. Leave it for five or ten minutes to allow it to soak in to the grime. Use the power washer to blast it off;

IMG_1124.jpg

Avoid dwelling on electrical connectors and the grommets where the ignition leads go into the head. Also avoid dwelling on the brake fluid chamber (but be sure to do it) and the oil dip stick. Everything can be done but just do the above parts briefly. Everything is weather proof under there - imagine the turmoil when driving through a storm so don't be put off!

Afterwards use a leather or old towel to wipe off the excess water. Then start the engine so that the heat will dry off the remainder;

IMG_1128.jpg

When everything is dry apply a few drops of oil to the bonnet hinges and the bonnet catch. Nothing else requires lubrication. Then stand back and admire........

IMG_1131.jpg

sound good but noing my luck it would not start after lol , but i might give it a go

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  • 1 year later...

[i've been trying to gather up the dosh for a full valet, but now think I might try this myself. Thanks Anchorman. Mind you, your engine bay looked pretty clean before you started!!!

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Not my engine bay!!!

It was quite grubby but the first photo shows some of the degreaser has made the inner wing shiney. You've got nothing to lose except 2 or 3 quid on degreaser.

Enjoy mate!

PS - show us a photo of the results.

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[i've been trying to gather up the dosh for a full valet, but now think I might try this myself. Thanks Anchorman. Mind you, your engine bay looked pretty clean before you started!!!
This is Anchs engine, he takes it out to give it a good polish :lol::lol:

Londonmotorshow031.jpg

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Love shiny engines.... :)

I did my VX220 earlier this year (Below) and it's the Ravs turn next me thinks.. :rolleyes:

Before..... :(

Mortscar016.jpg

After....... :)

VX220017.jpg

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Love shiny engines.... :)

I did my VX220 earlier this year (Below) and it's the Ravs turn next me thinks.. :rolleyes:

Before..... :(

Mortscar016.jpg

After....... :)

VX220017.jpg

Im liking your taste Gary! I have a VX220 in red and a RAV4 too !!!

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I have a VX220 in red and a RAV4 too !!!

Excellent choices of both cars and colour if I may be so bold!.... :)

Our Rav is a 'GX' but did want a 'VX' instead.... :lol:

Interestingly (or not) I got the VX long before our RAV and one of the first things I did was stick a private plate on it 'R6 VXX', my Wife now wants the plate to put on the RAV, ie 'R6V XX'... :unsure:

Out of interest did you choose the RAV and VX over the Elise and Freelander for the 'same' reason?.. :rolleyes:

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IMG_1131.jpg

Another top tip from Anchorman.....

VX220017.jpg

And a stunner from GarryL (some elbow grease used there! And what a result) The oil cap etc finish it off a treat

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[i've been trying to gather up the dosh for a full valet, but now think I might try this myself. Thanks Anchorman. Mind you, your engine bay looked pretty clean before you started!!!
This is Anchs engine, he takes it out to give it a good polish :lol::lol:

Londonmotorshow031.jpg

You'll have me thinking everyone else doesn't take thier engine out to clean it!!! Wife doesn't like it on her side of the bed though.

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You'll have me thinking everyone else doesn't take thier engine out to clean it!!! Wife doesn't like it on her side of the bed though.

Hey Anchorman...Don't you remember me placing my engine next to yours....Bit of a bugger carting it on the tube all the way to Excel this year though :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

DSCF1124.jpg

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It was easy to carry - I just put it in Local Hero's butty box. He carries his wallet in there so he can't tell the difference.

You didn't have to illuminate yours with matching colour LED's just to upstage me though Chatman!!!

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  • 1 year later...

Just to add to this, when your engine is all clean and dry, I usually give the whole engine bay area a spray coat of WD40, then take the car for a run, this drys the WD40 and leaves a nice shinny, protective film covering the whole area. :thumbsup:

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Just to add to this, when your engine is all clean and dry, I usually give the whole engine bay area a spray coat of WD40, then take the car for a run, this drys the WD40 and leaves a nice shinny, protective film covering the whole area. :thumbsup:

:help: Sorry to sound dumb...but are you saying just the surrounding area and/or the engine plus components too? :unsure:

Many thanks :toast:

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That does work but it leaves an oily residue for dirt to stick to. I prefer leaving it dry.

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Yep I just spray every thing, electrical plastics included, I like the look, i`ve found that when just left dry after jet washing, the aluminium parts can start to corrode, Its just my preference to spray WD40 all over the engine bay.

As anchs say, dirt will be more attracted to the oily film left over, but you can always jet was it again.

Give it a try see what you think,

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  • 1 year later...

Jet spray + engine? You sure. I don't know if i have the guts to do that just in case i end up blowing the engine up some how. You sure its safe to do?

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Jet spray + engine? You sure. I don't know if i have the guts to do that just in case i end up blowing the engine up some how. You sure its safe to do?

So long as all the connectors are in good condition you shouldn't have a problem. Don't forget that the electrics etc are designed to withstand just about everything nature can throw. Not sure what the 'swimming' capability of a 4.2 is but the 4.3 is supposed to be good for half a metre.

If you are concerned you can always poly wrap the most vulnerable bits :thumbsup:

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Have you thought about wnat happens under there in a heavy rainstorm and you are motoring a bit? A wall of water is rammed through the radiator and sprayed over the engine - it's how it gets filthy. RAVs have a pretty good shield underneath but most other models don't so they gat hammered from all directions.

I often use the airline to dry out any exposed connectors but it shouldn't really need it. Shcm will tell you more about the exposure ratings of these under bonnet connectors. I can assure you there is nothinng washing the engine will do that will cause it to "blow up" unless you squirt water into the air intake with it running and quite honestly you would have a job to do that without some dismantling :thumbsup:

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shcm will tell you more about the exposure ratings of these under bonnet connectors.

Not my area of responsibility, but I have to be well aware of it. There is usually something like an IP rating IP6(4-7) or similar specified for the connector. Completely different to an in-cab connector, which are usually quite open shells.

http://www.mpl.ch/info/IPratings.html

The ECU is usually not sealed. It can be a bad idea and not worth the effort/expense. If sealed, normal expansion and contraction will make the housing act like a pair of bellows and will suck moisture and stuff in via the connector. There is usually a breather pill (some like to call it a "hydrophobic vent") somewhere on the ECU to stop this sort of thing. If you look at the 4.3 diesel EMS ECU (next to air filter box), I seem to remember the round circular pill sticking up out of the case. You might also find a hole somewhere to let water out!

Conformal coating (lacquer) has both pros and cons, but you will very often find this applied to an under bonnet ECU printed circuit board, to protect against potential unwanted effects of moisture ingress.

All sort of environmental tests are applied at what we call DV (Design Verification). Pressure washer tests, salt spray, humidity..........the list really does go on and on and on. You might well be amazed at the look of the ECU when it has been through these tests, but should still work normally.

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Thanks for the replies guys, glad you cleared that up for me, really helpful.

I may be new here but im liking these forums, great source of info for every question i had so far.:thumbsup:

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Sorry but I disagree that everything under the bonnet is waterproof . It may well be water resistant and water resistant enough to withstand water ingress from normal use but firing water at 2 bar at the complex electrics is a lottery !!

I wrap all connections and boxes ect ect with clingfilm. Wrap all major components like ECUs and stuff with an old plasic carrier bag and tape. I leave the engine running while power washing...

Warm the engine gently before spraying the cleaner on NOT TO HOT MIND. this will soften any greasy or oily deposits prior to the cleaning process.

You can ignore this but do so at great risk. Tracking down gremlins if moisture enters any of the above parts can be an absolute nightmare and potentially very very expensive ........

Can Nature throw water at the same rate as a powerwasher ??

One of the most effective degreasers is good old APC (All Purpose Cleaner) Like Autosmart G101 or Tesco Daisy any of these will do a top job and break down any oily deposits !!! Pus its cheap as chips You migh use 50Ps worth if that. By all means throw a tin of Gunk Or Jizer over it and have the car smell like a dead badger in the hedge if You want to and spend tenner into the bargain its You dollar !!!

My engine done just last week.

rav4engine002.jpg

rav4engine003.jpg

rav4engine001.jpg

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You`ll have to watch out for you head gasket too on your vehicle. Any high pressure thrown at that engine and it may disintergrate, ;) There made out of old toilet rolls. Eco gaskets. ;)

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Sorry but I disagree that everything under the bonnet is waterproof . It may well be water resistant and water resistant enough to withstand water ingress from normal use but firing water at 2 bar at the complex electrics is a lottery !!

I wrap all connections and boxes ect ect with clingfilm. Wrap all major components like ECUs and stuff with an old plasic carrier bag and tape. I leave the engine running while power washing...

Warm the engine gently before spraying the cleaner on NOT TO HOT MIND. this will soften any greasy or oily deposits prior to the cleaning process.

You can ignore this but do so at great risk. Tracking down gremlins if moisture enters any of the above parts can be an absolute nightmare and potentially very very expensive ........

Can Nature throw water at the same rate as a powerwasher ??

One of the most effective degreasers is good old APC (All Purpose Cleaner) Like Autosmart G101 or Tesco Daisy any of these will do a top job and break down any oily deposits !!! Pus its cheap as chips You migh use 50Ps worth if that. By all means throw a tin of Gunk Or Jizer over it and have the car smell like a dead badger in the hedge if You want to and spend tenner into the bargain its You dollar !!!

My engine done just last week.

I assure you that you wont do any harm by power washing, I did it several times and nothing happened. Engine is well sealed and nothing to worry about. I just spray some degreaser first, leave for couple of minutes and power wash every thing off. Great job :thumbsup:

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