Dash Lighting Change

[Paul Mack]

Hi Guys,

just wondered if anyone has done it or knows if it can be done, I fancy changing the dash boardlighting on mu Sr180 from the boring Toyota dingy yellow to either a deep red or blue glow.

Any ideas guys on what's involved and costs etc?

Appreciate your thoughts

Best wishes

Paul

[Speed_Chaser]

Yea it can be done. You'll just have to do some soldering to replace the LEDs. It is also possible to change the colour of the two round displays in the middle of your speedo and rev meter. I do have a guide in Japanese, which is translated using google translate. It is not very clear and does not contain all the steps, but is surely helpful. I will post it later on when I'll have time to upload the pics. Here's something for starters:

LEDs and the displays still in place

Display connectors cutted to replace the LED backlightning and then soldered back

End result

LEDs on the dashboard

Result after replacing

Hazard

[Rick D4D]

looks good in blue but it is a lot of hassle

[Grippen]

yes sure does look good but i wouldn't do that on my own

[Paul Mack]

Yea it can be done. You'll just have to do some soldering to replace the LEDs. It is also possible to change the colour of the two round displays in the middle of your speedo and rev meter. I do have a guide in Japanese, which is translated using google translate. It is not very clear and does not contain all the steps, but is surely helpful. I will post it later on when I'll have time to upload the pics. Here's something for starters:

LEDs and the displays still in place

Display connectors cutted to replace the LED backlightning and then soldered back

End result

LEDs on the dashboard

Result after replacing

Hazard

Hi Speed Chaser,

thanks for the reply and info, much appreciated and yes please, I would like to look at the pictures when you have time to do them.

Agree with the guys, they look very impressive.

Many thanks

Best wishes

Paul

[jdmare]

This is how it looks without going behind the little displays.

You just change the leds around the speedo and rev meter...

Blue and amber are not the best combo, but I was thinking red&amber might work well.

Attach the guides Speed Chaser! ;)

[e11fan]

Very Tasty i llike it!!!!!!

[ChrisB666]

Should have just bought a VW!

[jdmare]

If Speed_Chaser ever gets around to posting those guides, this shoud be pinned on top of the Auris Club section.

And the cruise control thread, too.

Edited July 24, 2010 by jdmare

[jdmare]

How about, if you really like the car, but hate the golden brown amber lights?

Edited July 24, 2010 by jdmare

[Speed_Chaser]

So, here is the guide I promised to post. Sorry for the delay, I've been quite busy lately. Been modding my lights and just came back from a spontanious trip.

I repeat that the guide is translated from Japanese using Google Translate. It is also collected from several different guides, but I'm sure it will still help you understand the process. Good luck to everyone who'll decide to try this. Post your comments and lots of pics when you'll get it done!!

Led replacement guide

LED replacement air conditioning

After seeing the other people are doing, and I wanted to challenge himself.

LED chip is 3528 (white) and 3020 (blue) and dust in Yafuoku the baggage.

Immediately, this was pretty tough back side panel Balazs conditioning.

This LED is the future replacement surgery the diseased persons

First it takes to remove the LCD panel (to replace the LED backlight) behind the 4-pin and 8-lead solder take overtaken so hard to stay on, cut with nippers in imitation of the capybara's white

I solder connections.

LED will not remove the photos that we provide enough for a secret weapon this time.

Rod made of copper, It is called a "tea Eru soldering iron removal from both sides at once warm,"

He sent me a job than expected.

3020 small portion of the LED lights (blue), otherwise, 3528 (white) I have to.

Ministry is the first I had a blue LCD, "I -" Nde was white.

Replacement of two air conditioning panel LED

Category: Miscellaneous "other" other

Working day: September 28, 2008

Il-a little dark so I tried to replace the LED.

3020 of previously 36mcd (on images)

3216 of this 276mcd (picture below)

The solder 3216 is very small, so you can see the brightness is different from numbers. (3020 is the cheap, they bought without worrying too much about the numbers ^ ^;)

After replacing the front lower exchange

Modified LED lighting strike meter (The Blue)

Categories: electrical systems "meter" mounting exchange

Purpose Maintenance and repair failures

Work DIY DIY

Difficulty ★ ★

Work One hour

Work day: November 12, 2009

Picture is complete.

Wed voluptuously photographed, but little is actually true blue ^ ^

Is also a blue light when not part of the inner orange.

Ji is easily resolved if the needle.

Professorー's what I say come, and we dropped two techniques using the power of the book peel off liner

Says Professorーcome, thank you ~! ! !

Replacement of the LED is red paring gouge.

Red needles, so I'm glad I left, the center did not replace the four LED.

This is the octopus

The speed

The information display is complicated because the nails are out covering the red circle, then the LCD has a fixed four small nail to expand this board can take to remove the LCD and lighting.

Back to the six LED chips to replace the original. (Do not confuse the right ^ ^;

Is completed to restore the meter.

3528, with blue LED chip, 24 pieces (meter of 6 × 2,

Erupara was purchased.

Recombinant beat Hazadosuitchiirumi

Category: Miscellaneous "other" other

Work day: July 19, 2009

The long-awaited holiday in the wet, and from there are also dopey and tried to kill time.

Previously, it was stopped by a small LED roses for ^ ^;

Picture lights!

Disconnect the switch from the first body

Kojitsu in such a small screwdriver and place the red circle nail and remove the black part.

Red circle image of the LED chip with a nameplate processing recently LED (2.0 * 1.2) and replace it with.

LED while the iron is also addressed, so we did not get was not take by force the needlenose pliers

After replacing the LED is complete back to the original.

Actually, if you replace the goods within reasonable chip resistance is one of the bright image over the second picture, I dare not touch.

[TakumiGR]

A question on the topic: How do you remove the needles?

Thanks in advance.

[tavy]

Make a sign with a pencil on the dial, in front of needle tip, then twist the needle counterclockwise (or anticlockwise) and pull it out at the same time.

[bobbo7070]

Just ordered the smb's to give this a go. If it goes o.k. I'll post up my experience.

btw tavy, what's the pencil marks for?

Is it just so you know where to put the needles back?

[tavy]

Just ordered the smb's to give this a go. If it goes o.k. I'll post up my experience.

btw tavy, what's the pencil marks for?

Is it just so you know where to put the needles back?

Yeap, this is the reason ...

[bobbo7070]

Got the smb's today so decided to give it a go.

Non-event I'm afraid. Although the climate conrol console went to plan, the dash was a non-starter. The dash circuit board on my '57 T180 is totally different inside to the one shown in the piccies.

The dash illumination smb's have four solder pads per led, not two. Although it wouldn't be too hard to solder in new led's, desoldering the old ones would be a swine and is probably beyond my abilities. In addition, I've no idea what led's I'd need to replace them with. I'm gonna think on it...

The little circular displays are different inside too. Although they just unplug and are easy to get apart, the illumination led's are the size of the head of a pin and very closely packed together making removal and replacement problematic.

Took a couple of piccies and will try and get them up later.

Update:

I think I've found the correct led's, and I've ordered a rework station to do the job. Let you know how it goes...

[TakumiGR]

My dash was also different but i managed to change the leds. There is no difference in the 4 pin leds. The three pins provide current and one of them is ground. You just need to solder the ground pin and one of the others.

What i did was take a close look before o removed the led and see where the cut corner was. Then I soldered the pins that where on the cut corner side.

If it was down i soldered the 2 down pins and the same for the upper ones.

I removed the original leds just by carefully pulling them with pliers.

As for the screens I have the same leds with bobbo7070 and i couldn't get an smd to fit in there.

Bobbo7070 if you found those little screen LEDs from somewhere would you mind posting a link?

Thanks and I hope I was helpful.

[bobbo7070]

My dash was also different but i managed to change the leds. There is no difference in the 4 pin leds. The three pins provide current and one of them is ground. You just need to solder the ground pin and one of the others.

What i did was take a close look before o removed the led and see where the cut corner was. Then I soldered the pins that where on the cut corner side.

If it was down i soldered the 2 down pins and the same for the upper ones.

I removed the original leds just by carefully pulling them with pliers.

As for the screens I have the same leds with bobbo7070 and i couldn't get an smd to fit in there.

Bobbo7070 if you found those little screen LEDs from somewhere would you mind posting a link?

Thanks and I hope I was helpful.

Thanks for the info TakumiGR.

I was considering this approach to replacing them.

What LED's did you use in the dash?

Did you use new 4 pad ones as original, or the 2 pad LED's used to replace the the larger one's in the climate control panel and just shift them up a couple of mm's? Soldering them in the exact same position as the original ones would of course bridge the anode and cathode pads.

Bob.

[TakumiGR]

I used this kind of leds, but 3528 pure white colour. They had 2 pads. I soldered only the two pins from the PCB to the LED and the other side was slightly higher so it would not bridge.

In fact what you must do is: Connect ground and current pins to the LED. But in our case where there are only two pads instead of four, if you solder both ground and current on one side there will be a short circuit. So you have to solder ground from one side and either of the two pins on the other.

[bobbo7070]

Reflow station arrived today, and after a couple of hours practice with it I decided to get stuck in.

All went well. Ever since I bought this motor the dash lighting has ****** me off with it's cheapo afterthought look, but now the dash looks absolutely fantastic .

The old SMD's took a lot of heat to remove at first, but they came away fine after I preheated the pcb over the stove (the original LED's all still work ). I soldered in the new cool-white 3528's a little high or low dependant on anode orientation to avoid bridging the anodes and cathodes (see piccy below for original LED placement). Fortunately the LED cutouts in the white plastic pcb cover are quite generous in proportions so they fitted fine.

One thing I discovered, don't twist the speedo needle clockwise when removing or replacing it or you may damage the gearing. Fit both needles back spot-on, or a litle high then gently twist them into the correct position anti-clockwise.

I think I've found a replacement LED for the circular displays. They're possibly Osram LWP4SG's which are now obsolete, but you can still get them from a supplier on eBay USA. They're not particularly cheap but I decided to order some to find out if they're suitable.

Timewise it took me three minutes to get the dash out of the car, five minutes to dismantle it and about an hour and a half to do the job. (Then an hour admiring it :D )

Really recommend this mod to anyone with the skills and kit to do it. The pictures people have posted really don't do the results justice. The dash at night is now particularly superb. I actually quite like the central amber displays now and may just leave them as they are...

:D

[TakumiGR]

I would really apreciate it if you could keep us informed about the Osram leds for the screen.

Nice job

[bobbo7070]

Will do. It's gonna be a couple of weeks before they get here though. They're coming from stateside and post is super slow at the mo...

Bob.

[bobbo7070]

Quick update:

Broke out the reflow station this afternoon and removed one of the little climate control screens. The LED's are 3216's in my car and there are 4 in total, 2 behind each screen.

(Btw, that's the same as 1206 cos 3216 is metric and 1206 is imperial evidently...)

So to recap:

To change all the LED's in the climate control panel you'll need 15 3216/1206's and 10 3258's. To change the main dash lighting you'll need 22 3258's (11 per dial). Can't say for certain what's needed for the mini displays on the main dash yet, but I think they're PointLED LW P4SG.

You can get them all from Phenoptix, nice people with quick delivery...

Getting there slowly...

[bobbo7070]

Nearly all done.

Changed all the led's except the circular dash displays.

Climate control console blue buttons, white displays and white indication lights.

Dash; white dials and amber displays (sounds a bit xmas tree, but I really like it).

Headlamp, traction control, steering wheel and drivers door window switches/buttons blue.

The only problem I've got is with a dry joint behind one of the climate control screens which causes the led's to flash off occasionally (would be one of them, the most difficult to get at :censor: :ffs: !!!). I know it's a dry joint because the two led's are connected in series and they both go out. Will be fixed soon.

Looking really good.

If I had one critism it's the interior has now lost it's "warm" feeling, it's now very attractive but a bit cold (cool I 'spose! B) ).

General observations:

Would I do it again? Definitely!

Would I do it differently? Yep, but I'd get the 40w soldering tweezers before I started! The bent copper wires shoved into a cheapo iron worked, but I found I was constantly having to reshape and re-tin the ends. The tweezers would have cut the job time in half. Not cheap, but worth the dough especially when you consider the value of the kit you risk buggering up .

I'll take some piccies tonight when it's dark and add 'em in.

[rinu]

hi I know that this topic is a bit old however I cam across it since I want to do the same dash light changes. My smd leds are like bobbo7070's (PLCC-4). Could someone please tell me the forward voltage of the leds you bought since when I tested mine they have only 0.8 to 1.78V drop on them and the typical smd leds for sale range from 3 to 4V. Would appreciate any help... thanks ;)