No Eml But No Performance Either

[rhino trikes]

I'll start a new thread for this one as I previously posted it on a very old thread.

Just bought my daughter a 2002 Rav4 2.0 diesel, 145k on the clock. Drove it around the block for a test drive, Nice. Handed over the money, sweet. Drove it home, Oops, Am I inadvertantly pushing on the brake? First gear....zoomy, 2nd gear, asthmatic... 3rd gear accellerating at the speed of Continental drift, other gears for descent use only. I guess I'm ringing Kingo tomorrow then with credit card ready for a pair of SCV valves. Should have read this forum first. That's the problem with having a 1991 JDM MKII MR2 Turbo, you get to thinking that Toyota don't make mistakes!

Took the car for a 3 mile drive this morning and it drove perfectly. stopped, started up again and drove up the road, slugabug was back. I think I will give the Denso valves a pop at £167.00 off the bay. I would normally pay the extra and go with Toyota OE but at £270+ Vat I think a giraffe is being had. I will post up results.

Update: Denso valves ordered from the bay. Fingers are firmly crossed.

[rhino trikes]

New denso valves fitted to no improvement

Here we go, here we go, here we go!

Erg valve out, but I can see someones allready been there.

Will try diesel filter then maf sensor then turbo I guess in that order unless anyone can suggest different.

No EML on.

The car drives superbly then you stop and leave it for a while, re-start and it pulls like a train in first then hesitates in second, sometimes it picks up and goes, sometimes it just wont. It's still drivable but just no power at all.

[rhino trikes]

This is interesting; I have a P0100 mas airflow fault code (Maf sensor was disconnected at the time doh!)

A P1115 Air intake control fault code a P1250 fault code and a P1255 fault code (Both unknown codes to the Delphi reader) So trolling through the posts here I'm guessing I have a non boosting overboosting turbo with stuck vanes, Map sensor, Intake control valve, problem.


"Um, from a standpoint of status. What do we got on the spacecraft that's good?"


The interior light is really, really good, and it has two cup holders; not one.


I don't really know what to do, my gut is telling me to bale I'm £1500 down now, and 2 wasted work days.


Why did I think these were good cars? I should have read the forum posts first.

Sorry for the double post, I had planned to delete my comments on the old thread but found that I couldn't.

[gjnorthall]

P1115 is a coolant temperature / sensor issue. The other two codes relate to a boost control / turbo vane issue. It may be worth deleting the fault codes then checking what re-appears. If the car is otherwise good and you bought it at a decent price - it may well be worth getting the turbo unit sorted. I don't have any personal experience but if you search - you'll find that some owners swear by turbo cleaners such as Archoil.

[rhino trikes]

This godforsaken new stupid idea by the government to cancel road tax at point of sale means that I will have to Shell out for 6 months tax before I can give the car a good long run, so rather than throw good money after bad, I'm going to change out the filters then give it another short run with the fault codes cleared and see what it throws up. If it comes up with turbo codes again, I'll strip off the turbo and have a nose at it. If it just needs a good clean then that will probably be my cheapest option. If it's super clagged, then the £30 for turbo cleaner can go towards a replacement.

I will keep you informed

By the by, I have a perfectly servicable pair of SCV valves which someone can have cheap if required. :P

[rhino trikes]

Well now I've done the scv valves, air filter, diesel filter, run two cans of turbo cleaner through the turbo and filled the turbo with cleaner and let it sit for an hour. Turbo is spinning up without any resistance (Blowing air into vanes) I've cleaned out all the pipes, the EGR valve and all the little servo's I can find in and around the engine bay. cleaned out the fly by wire venturi, checked that it's moving without resistance. Cleaned all electrical connections to sensors and ecu. Run an Innotec injector cleaner through the system. It is still missbehaving. You can drive for an hour without issue, leave the car standing for 20 mins then start up and it will sometimes be ok or not. When it plays up its as if the engine is not getting the word to go, then it does and we're off again! I think it may be occuring with less frequency than it was so I am tempted to fill it up with diesel and just run it around for a bit and see if it can't fix itself. I've tried the DTC's now and there are none, I've also tried live data but it isn't causing a DTC even when it plays up. I can only think to smoke it round and see if it doesn't get worse or get better. Any other suggestions?

[gjnorthall]

Did you recheck for fault codes before the listed programme of work? It would be interesting to know if the codes were historical or if the faults had been rectified by the work carried out. It's always difficult when there are no codes recorded and the symptoms intermittent and you can bet your life that the previous owner was as stumped. It's not a bad idea to run the car for a while after filling to the brim with premium fuel - in a strange sort of way it's not a bad thing even if the problem gets worse - you've then got a better chance of getting to the source.

[rhino trikes]

All previous codes were historical with the two turbo codes and an EML current because I was running the engine at the time with bits disconnected. I cleared all DTC's then ran it until the fault occured. No DTC's recorded. So I ran it again with realtime scan. Fault occured a couple of times but no DTC's were recorded. At one point the car was crawling up a steep hill in third, I didn't attempt to give more throttle just to see what it would do, got to just short of the brow, so it was still labouring when it just lifted it's skirts and powered on up. It does seem to be doing it less the more it's driven so perhaps brimming and giving it a proper run may help. I have to say though, everywhere I go under the bonnet, I see signs that someones already paid a visit. I may have to call the previous owner and beg him to tell me the truth about what he's already tried. (Fat chance)

What about the peddlebox (Fly by wire sender) do these give issues? I don't suppose it would hurt to take the connectors off and blast some contact cleaner around.

Isn't it just a blast when such a good vehicle is destroyed by so much electrical nonsense that has no place under a bonnet?

My old Frontera had a mechanical lifter pump, a mechanical diesel pump, some engine bits that went vroom vroom and it did 40mpg. What's more; it still works.

[gjnorthall]

The throttle electronics give very few problems - usual failure is no response at all. My next step after giving it a good run with fresh fuel would be to monitor the fuel rail pressure just to check that the pressure isn't falling off causing the lack of performance.

[rhino trikes]

I've ordered a new maf sensor as the one on the vehicle has some external damage. My daughter is taxing it tomorrow and is going to brim it with quality fuel then just run it around for a bit, see what pops out of the woodwork. It is drivable despite this issue. I don't know how to monitor the fuel rail pressure, my delphi diagnostics scanner doesn't cover that, just DTC's live and stored. Do you mean to manually rig up a pressure gauge or is this someting a better scanner would be able to do?

[gjnorthall]

There's a pressure transducer in the fuel rail just under the inlet manifold. Some scanners have an oscilloscope function and it would be a case of monitoring the signal (centre pin in the connector). The value isn't important - what you're looking for is a change in signal when the car starts struggling. Not a bad thing to change the MAFF - a faulty unit usually throws up a code but sometimes old electronics can suffer heat effects (when a hot engine is left standing for a short period, the temperature in the engine bay rises significantly then cools down as the car is driven again).

[rhino trikes]

I've got a new MAF sensor which i will fit. when the car is back here. My daughter has been using the car for a week now and the problem seems to have vanished, perhaps it just needed some good quality fuel running through. I will post up any developments. Thanks for the advice.

[gjnorthall]

The problem may well have been due to a combination of factors and fingers crossed that the car remains OK. A good run with decent fuel often does some good.

[rhino trikes]

It's better when you can cure a problem outright but in this instance; having just bought the car, I have no idea of the history. Could be the previous owner put the wrong fuel in, or ran it on veggie oil. It seems to be making the 20 ml run from her home to work every day without incident now so all I can do is keep the fingers crossed.

[rhino trikes]

Not Cured

I just fitted a MAF sensor bought on eBay from a UK source which arrived from Lithuania, within 5 minutes EML was lit and car in limp mode. I scaned for DTC's and got 2 p1250 boost pressure sensor errors. Swapped back to the old MAF sensor and cleared the DTC's and switched off EML and took it for a drive. It was very sluggish but eventually cleared and lifted it's skirts and away. Then it was intermitantly hessitant for a bit but didn't throw any more fault codes. Now I'm confused. The replacement MAF has had the Toyota code number milled off deliberatly so I'm assuming that they have sold a batch of petrol ones as D4D sensors but why would the wrong MAF sensor throw up a turbo boost pressure fault and turn on the EML? My gut is telling me that this problem will persist until someone coughs up for a replacement turbo.

[rhino trikes]

The Febi number is correct. Must be just faulty kit.

[superbadonkey]

I had this problem on a 2003 RAV 4 diesel I recently bought, it drove fine during the test drive but on the motorway it felt like the turbo wasn't giving any boost in 4th -5th gear and I would lose power. It would occasionally kick in and out with the foot down or would return to normal after pumping the accelerator a few times and moving through the gears.

 I can across this thread while trying to figure out the problem. I suspected the EGR valve and put a can of Wynn's EGR valve cleaner through the engine. It's been a week now and it's driving perfectly since.