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D4D Engine Noise When Cold 2004 1Cd-Ftv


avensisd4d786
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I have this strange noise a while now, today it got worse I was coming home from work temp outside was 2 Celsius.

oil was changed 2,800 miles ago.

sounds a bit like grinding I cannot get my camera to pick it up.

I hope its not the oil pick up strainer being partially blocked?

engine has 163k.

sometimes if im at the lights when cold and I depress the clutch the revs go slightly higher but never does when car is getting up to temp.

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Thick gearbox oil? Or contaminated oil?

Sent from my iPhone

Thanks mate, I will have to jack car up in morning and try and figure where the noise coming from.

This morning when I scraped the ice of the windows, I could not hear this noise from outside maybe because these d4ds are loud when cold but when I sat in I could hear it.

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The more i trawled the net the more i read about blocked oil strainers, the one i just read, said or suggested that a lot of the turbo problems on the d4d could actually be attributed to poor oil flow from strainer,which would mean that a lot of turbo replacements might be short lived, i would be interested to know how easy it is to remove sump and look at strainer as it seems to be a a way to avoid a few problems or eliminate them.

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please note if you have the heater on whilst cold the engine WILL rev as it trys to get the cabin hot and warm as quick as possible... I noticed that when I had mine.....hth

John

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The more i trawled the net the more i read about blocked oil strainers, the one i just read, said or suggested that a lot of the turbo problems on the d4d could actually be attributed to poor oil flow from strainer,which would mean that a lot of turbo replacements might be short lived, i would be interested to know how easy it is to remove sump and look at strainer as it seems to be a a way to avoid a few problems or eliminate them.

looking at these pics attached it seems straight forward.

please note if you have the heater on whilst cold the engine WILL rev as it trys to get the cabin hot and warm as quick as possible... I noticed that when I had mine.....hth

John

Thanks mate, i am aware of this it increases then goes back down.

post-125194-0-30275700-1421258356_thumb.

post-125194-0-30086100-1421258360_thumb.

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Internet diagnosis of noises without any audio of the actual noise is, well, a lottery. Unfortunately your local dealership probably won't be much more help: 'computer says no fault found'. If you have an independant Toyota specialist nearby it may be worth giving them a call. They may have come across this before.

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Internet diagnosis of noises without any audio of the actual noise is, well, a lottery. Unfortunately your local dealership probably won't be much more help: 'computer says no fault found'. If you have an independant Toyota specialist nearby it may be worth giving them a call. They may have come across this before.

True I just thought I would it up just in case some one has come across it plus if I find the fault hopefully it will help someone in the future.

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Could it be your flywheel/clutch going?

When were they last changed?

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Could it be your flywheel/clutch going?

When were they last changed?

not long ago its not a metallic noise plus noise is still there when depressed.

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Noted!

Just for info: experience shows that sign of flywheel going is that "metal grinding" sound is audible when clutch IS depressed.

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few videos its very hard to pick the noise- it might be better using headphones.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Could a blocked oil strainer be the reason why my d4d is burning oil?

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I would have thought, the opposite, not sufficient oil passing through strainer gradually cooks engine/turbo, More likely to be top end /turbo problem putting oil into exhaust.

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I would have thought, the opposite, not sufficient oil passing through strainer gradually cooks engine/turbo, More likely to be top end /turbo problem putting oil into exhaust.

Like valve seals or worn piston rings?

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i would do a compression test to check those firstly as it would verify or eiminate area as problem ? do see a lot of turbo problems problems on web as the cause of high oil consumption which i would look at after top end if compression good

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i would do a compression test to check those firstly as it would verify or eiminate area as problem ? do see a lot of turbo problems problems on web as the cause of high oil consumption which i would look at after top end if compression good

Thank you. Ill do that first and then look at getting the turbo tested. I still think its going to cost a lot to fix so Im thinking of a part ex.

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I may be missing something here but if the car is burning a bit of oil wouldn't it be more cost effective to accept that it burns a bit, keep an eye on the oil level and keep topping it up? All my bikes have burned a bit of oil and most of my cars have needed to be topped up occassionaly. I would probably keep the car and TUMO (Top Up Motor On).

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only problem is your bikes probably weren't turbo charged, if its the turbo burning oil because of leaking seals, your one step away from turbo failure ,which also could lead to head damage ! if only it was as easy as topping up the oil,these engines are over complicated !!

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Thats what Iv been doing for a while now. Just topping up the oil.

If the turbo seals were failing, wouldn't there be any oil stains on my driveway?

Also what does turbo pooling mean? Iv heard thats a cause for burning oil.

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I'm no expert in turbos but i read some where that what doesnt burn of as smoke in a hot exhaust can build up in your,exhaust box, are you getting clouds of smoke that get less if you drive with a light foot,ie reduced use of turbo, i dont think you will see it as a physical puddle of oil when your stationary, if your losing oil quickly i think its more likely turbo, if its a top up every every know and again it could be top end, i've also read that the quickest way to check for oil via tubo is to disconnect cat/box on exaust it will be visibly full of oil, as i've said i'm no expert ,just read a lot, so please don't take anything as gospel but it may help you in right direction for further web investigation

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I'm no expert in turbos but i read some where that what doesnt burn of as smoke in a hot exhaust can build up in your,exhaust box, are you getting clouds of smoke that get less if you drive with a light foot,ie reduced use of turbo, i dont think you will see it as a physical puddle of oil when your stationary, if your losing oil quickly i think its more likely turbo, if its a top up every every know and again it could be top end, i've also read that the quickest way to check for oil via tubo is to disconnect cat/box on exaust it will be visibly full of oil, as i've said i'm no expert ,just read a lot, so please don't take anything as gospel but it may help you in right direction for further web investigation

I get a cloud of blue smoke on startup first thing in the morning. Thats it. Car does feel sluggish though even though it was serviced a few weeks ago. I put it down to a clogged up egr valve. Now Im thinking turbo problems.

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I'd be inclined to clean egr valve and pcv valve anyway as it can lead to smokey starts and wont cost anything other than time and patience! while your at it do a compression check and replace injector seals maybe? its one more thing eliminated and will improve your cars performance. how much oil is your car using and over what period of time?????

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Blue smoke at start up in the morning generally means worn valve stem seals and is nothing to worrry about. Basically the oil left in the top of the engine around the camshaft area seeps down the vale stems overnight leading to a puff of blue smoke at first start of the day. Unless there is another cause of blue smoke at start up I would TUMO. Your car is 11 years old so you can expect it to have 'a bit of character'.

If you're unsure then spend some cash on a physical diagnosis rather than opting straight for a swap to another car.

Just for my education: why replace the injector seals? I'm confused.

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hi druid , i got the impression he was using a lot of oil not just a 'puff' of smoke, thats why i asked how much he was using in last post,i wouldn't have thought anyone would consider changing an engine because of a 'puff'of smoke ! the changing injector seals was because if he was doing a compression check /removing injectors ,these failing seals are linked in a lot of worldwide threads with the cause of sump oil pickup/strainer blocking with small black particles, leading to oil starvation(i'dont know the science behind it) hence put new ones in while your working in that area,there are lots of pics of blocked strainers 'on the net'and lots of 'unknown' unforseen engine failures on d4d's occuring, incuding my own 2005 previa d4d, the first thing i'm looking at when i have the sump off is the strainer,my car was service a couple of weeks before failed engine and no symptoms beforehand.

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