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Ups And Downs


IQ Old git
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Hi Guys. Well I decided that due to the 'annoying' fuel consumption gauge I would sign up to Fuelly. Got my first result yesterday and WOW!! 55.8mpg IQ3 (highest on gauge has been 53.6) This may of course change as it gets more fillups, but I do always try to use the same pump at 'Trago Mills' U/l 106.9. As an experiment Ive filled up with ordinary unleaded today. Have been putting in super up to now. Dosnt feel any different.? I always fill right to the brim so will be interesting to see if there is any change. Will prob go back to super as it costs so little to Fill. Now the downs. Had my insusance renewal which is only £10 less than my previous Yaris T sport. Was hoping and expecting at least £50 reduction. The seller told me it was in group 4. Turns out to be 6. Oh well cant have everything in life. At least Im saving £150 on tax. Well pleased with my Iq Colin

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I alway use Shell Unleaded, a few time I have tried the V-Power for a couple of tank fulls and have not seen any change in MPG or throttle response. I'd save the few pennies per litre and use normal Unleaded.

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We found the opposite and Mrs C now swears by VPower. I think it depends on your vehicle use. We both use our cars for short trips in heavy traffic. A nice steady run will clear crud out of a car using any fuel though.

But to the OP. I think you need to do 2 or 3 fill ups at least to get a good fuelly average preferably using the same pump at the same garage. Slopes on the garage floor can affect things a little, as can the pump (though you say you brim it) and maybe the weather to a small degree.

60+ mpg is a good start though.

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Thanks for comments Guys. I always try to use the same pump and have filled with super since I got it 1,800mls ago. Thought as I had signed up to fuelly I would try ordinary u/l before I clocked up anymore fuelly miles to see if it dropped on second result. I use the total rather than individual trip option as I want the long term result (would be handy to have both but dont think you can do that) Also I have been putting redex in since I got it. Have one dose left so have filled up 5 times so far. Its £2.70 a tank difference for super. Quite a bit on such a small tank. Does anyone know how much warning you get before it runs out. My Yaris used to flash then from memory turned solid red and bleeped when it was down to 5mls on computer. Only happed once the day I bought it. The Iq seems a bit hit and miss. Might need to try and fit a can in as well as a spare wheel for peace of mind. Cheers Colin

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One further point. How do you get a fuelly reading to show at the bottom of posts. I see several of you have that feature which seems a good ploy. Thanks again Colin

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On mine, I gather some are difeerent. When the last bar starts flashing I have 2 gallon left inthe tank so that gives me 100 miles. To check yours, as soon as it satrts flashing fill up as soon as you can and see how much you get in, subtract that from the tank capacity and you'll have a rough idea.

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I never let mine get to the flashing light, always fill up before as I've been caught out twice now.

One day on the way home the last bar started flashing about 5 miles from home so I continued and thought, I'll fill it up in the morning. Next morning car wouldn't start. Pressing the start button resulted in a whine noise from the tank and no way was it going to start.

An extra gallon of fuel poured in the tank saw it start again and make it's way to the station where I only got 26 litres in the tank to the brim.

It happened again once when I was pulling out the house drive. It got out then spluttered and died. Fortunately after a few attempts it did restart and made it to the petrol station.

I can only assume that starting the car causes the pump to run and suck more fuel than is required during normal operation and if the level is low, the pump is able to get a gulp of air. Once air is in the injector line it will take a while to pump it through the system again hence why it won't start.

Fill up before it gets that low, only safe way.

Craig.

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On mine, I gather some are difeerent. When the last bar starts flashing I have 2 gallon left inthe tank so that gives me 100 miles. To check yours, as soon as it satrts flashing fill up as soon as you can and see how much you get in, subtract that from the tank capacity and you'll have a rough idea.

I never let mine get to the flashing light, always fill up before as I've been caught out twice now.

One day on the way home the last bar started flashing about 5 miles from home so I continued and thought, I'll fill it up in the morning. Next morning car wouldn't start. Pressing the start button resulted in a whine noise from the tank and no way was it going to start.

An extra gallon of fuel poured in the tank saw it start again and make it's way to the station where I only got 26 litres in the tank to the brim.

It happened again once when I was pulling out the house drive. It got out then spluttered and died. Fortunately after a few attempts it did restart and made it to the petrol station.

I can only assume that starting the car causes the pump to run and suck more fuel than is required during normal operation and if the level is low, the pump is able to get a gulp of air. Once air is in the injector line it will take a while to pump it through the system again hence why it won't start.

Fill up before it gets that low, only safe way.

Craig.

Like I said some seem to read different to others I always go about 80 to 90 miles from when it starts to flash, never had any trouble yet (fingers crossed).

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The tank is quite shallow I've heard and I've found the fuel guage drops very quickly from 2 bars to a flashing single bar. Some times the Mrs has gone for miles on a flashing bar and other times the car has spluttered almost immediately after. There's no logic to it. Play safe.

Regarding the fuelly signature, there are two options on the website - a large one and a small one. This forum only allows the small one to be added to your signature. Just copy and paste the code on the main page of your fuelly when signed in.

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Thanks Guys, all that confirms must look for a can to fit behind the seat. Then of course will be the prob of remembering how much is in it for fuelly a/c. Grrr. Its all a bit hit and miss as the other day the light had been flashing for about 6 miles before I got home, then next day it was back to 2 bars and hadnt gone down before I reached the petrol station 5mls away. ???

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re.insurance, yeah, it turns out the insurance group of the car makes little to no difference unless you're talking about a big gap.

The biggest factor is the value of the car; Newer cars are usually more expensive to insure purely because they are worth more. (This is also why it's worth keeping that updated as some insurers charge you at what you valued it as and don't automatically lower it, and you know they will only give you 'market value' for it no matter what you put in there anyway!)

I do wonder about the insurance group you were quoted; Maybe the quoted '4' was on the old system? On the old 20-group system, mine was a 4E, on the new 50-group system it's a 9! :eek:

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Thanks Guys, all that confirms must look for a can to fit behind the seat. Then of course will be the prob of remembering how much is in it for fuelly a/c. Grrr. Its all a bit hit and miss as the other day the light had been flashing for about 6 miles before I got home, then next day it was back to 2 bars and hadnt gone down before I reached the petrol station 5mls away. ???

I have a small pen in my wallet (Argos pencil would do) and write the milage on the petrol recipt, it will have how many litres used on it already ;)

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As to the Fuelly Stats - I take mine before filling up, whilst sitting at the pump, taking the ODO reading and then the Trip A reading, then reset the Trip A for the next tank full. I write the two readings into a notebook (paper variety) I have and then make sure the mileage readings are written on the receipt. Once entered onto Fuelly I put the receipt in an envelope and at the end of the year it gets filed. I started using Fuelly in January 2012 as I was very interested to see a record of our fuel usage. Below are the current stats for the car over that period of time.

£1.29 Avg Price/Litre

£23.86 Avg Price/Fuel-up

£0.103 Avg Price/Mile

£2,982.58 Total Spent

Miles Tracked = 28,860 and 125 fuel ups

Basic Stats- 57.0 (0.0) Avg UK MPG, 55.7 (+2.0) Last UK MPG, 61.3 (24/11/2014) Best UK MPG


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For my IQ3 page 380 of the owner's manual states that there is 5.9L left when the fuel gauge starts flashing. Page 430 shows the fuel tank capacity is 32L. I usually fill up at the first petrol station I come across after the flashing starts. I have not run out in 40,000 miles of driving! I actually suspect that my reserve is more than 5.9L because when I do fill up I only put about 22L in and that rather implies that there was 10L left and not 5.9L. So I will stick with my current practice in the knowledge that the reserve is a very comfortable 5.9L.

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Yes I know Im panicing a bit, but hate the thought of running out. Its just that the Yaris was (hopefully) foolproof but the Iq gauge leaves a lot to chance. Re insurance, the seller must have assumed that all Iq's were rated the same (the 1.0 is group 4) As to value Direct Line (very good in my book) quote value as 'not exceeding £75.000.00) I assume that is including personal injury etc etc. As unless I could afford a ferrari I doubt it would apply. Its not too expensive £233.20 but the Yaris sport was £240 ish so not the saving I was expecting. When I phoned through change of car (£14.75 admin charge) the guy said he thought I would be looking at a £100pa saving. I have queried it with them and they said that the Iq has been re rated due to unexpectedly high repair costs and the fact that they have had a large number of thefts due to the keyless entry ??? Progresss ? Cheers everyone.

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I have queried it with them and they said that the Iq has been re rated due to unexpectedly high repair costs and the fact that they have had a large number of thefts due to the keyless entry ??? Progresss ?

After watching a televised interview with a guy from Thatcham, who effectively said that he wouldn't trust an electronic entry system as far as he could throw it and that the only reliable deterrent was mechanical, I've been using a lock and chain around the steering wheel whenever the car is left on the drive.

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We have the base 1.0 IQ with a key. We also have a keyless Prius. Now whilst keyless has many pro's, the easy way the system can be hi-jacked is a concern. I think if it becomes a problem, then the insurers will insist the manufacturers act.

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