Corolla Diy Clutch Replacement

[oldcodger]

After seeing this video about replacing the Corollas Clutch decided to give it a try with success !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqTs5lnAcss

He was working on a 1.4 but its the same for my 1.6 and I beileve almost the same for the 2.0 diesel.

Not sure about the 1.4 diesel or 1.8 .

The pdf below provides some extra info and tips which will hopefully prove helpful.

As its a first time, one off kind of job, do expect it to take a good while, its not rocket science , just methodical working; reckon it took me 22 hrs spread over this bank holiday weekend.

Worth the effort for a now silky smooth light clutch :D

.

clutch details.pdf

[roks]

Well done oldcodger, and thanks for the notes. I am not there yet but maybe in the future, say another 50k mile?.

I have some more pressing issues, discovered that both front bump stops cracked, not to mention the dust cover, there's not much left of it. I am wondering whether to get 2nd hand complete struts or buy the dust cover kit with the bump stops and replace. Also noticed the right front tyre wearing on the outside, I am hoping it just needs an alignment, which I'll do after the strut job.

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

Hi Oldcodger

It has been a while my old friend, its all me I admit, been busy with life and the kids, but I do have a quick peek at the forums in the little bit of spare time that I have in the evening's lol, I saw your posting and had to comment...WELL DONE...you should feel very proud of yourself considering its a diy job and you were brave enough to take it on...I managed to watch up to part 3 of the vids last night...before I nodded off...lol...will catch up again tonight...but I have to admit...it looks like a perfect job for me with some help from my other half...I'd love to take it on...and before you ask I still have my beloved Corolla...it hasn't gone anywhere...YET...and I think the clutch will require some attention very soon...I have been getting some what I can best describe as judder every time I pull off in 1st and release my clutch, it can be embarrassing at times, to avoid it you have to hit the throttle a little more ie higher revs, I suspect the clutch is wearing, my fault for riding it all the time, women hey, anyway, well done again, keep in touch, take care.

Sammy

[oldcodger]

Hey Sammy,

Good to hear from you, was not sure if you had moved on to something bigger, but seems you are still squeezing everyone into the little old rolla !

Certainly a big job doing a clutch yourself, but those Bodgit and Leggit videos were only uploaded after I had taken mine to that garage in February.

If I had seen it before then I think I might have tried to do it myself then. Would have saved 3 months of frustration if I had.

Still its come good in the end and thankfully its all sweet at the moment.

Did put up another post last night showing what the 'new , faulty' clutch assembly looked like and what the Car Mechanics magazine helpline thought of the garages work.

Remember you asking about the clutch judder some time ago, and that other member ( cannot remember his name or post) saying that a badly worn aux belt tensioner could cause the judder.

I replaced my aux belt soon after so took the tensioner off , but only found a small amount of play in there.

Easy enough to check with a spanner and some form of extension to get the leverage, so might be worth a look before you do a full clutch change.

Take care.

[cgladwell]

Sorry to revive this but I'm gonna be tackling this in a few weeks time myself. a question or two for Old Codger, in your pdf file I see you've used axle stands aswell as ramps for safety, but can I ask where did you place your axel stands, would it be on the box section ? Also what type of grease did you use on the release bearing clip.

 

I've already bought a LuK clutch kit for my 1.6

Thanks

Craig

[oldcodger]

Glad the post is being of help to someone.

There are four jacking points under each corner of the cills, about 9" in from the ends you will see a distinct half moon cut out about the size of a penny, thats the point to jack up on, I just used the ramp as when heaving on the gear box you can rock the whole car a bit.

As the books say, never jack all four wheels off the floor, always keep two on the ground and chocked.

Incorrectly applied grease by the clowns who fitted my clutch  is what destroyed it, so to be sure I got it right I contacted Luk Technical dept.

The stated that standard moly grease was fine to use, but where it should go is important.

First after cleaning the whole input shaft of old grease etc, take the new clutch plate and fit it over the fluted end of the input shaft and ensure it moves up and down freely, no swarf or burrs impeeding it.

If OK then lightly grease the fluted area only, and then place the clutch plate over it again and move it up and down to distribute the grease, then remove any excess that is obvious on the edges of the plate and shaft

The smooth area of the output shaft may have originally been lubricated, but the new Luk thrust  bearing has an plastic inner which is self lubricating, so that part of the shaft is not greased, again carefull test the bearing  is free to slide up and down.

The other pic shows the three points on the clutch folk where you also apply moly grease, the two fingers and on the underside where the support pillar is.

No way do you apply grease or brake Cleaner to the new thrust bearing, other than where the clutch folk fingers will touch it.

Few other tips, the wheel nuts have an inbuilt antislip which is part of the nut and has to be tapped up  before you can undo it, have a look and find the right tool / piece of metal to use before you start, rushing it and you can damage the threads.

As you remove all the bits and bolts etc, do one section then place them in a poly bag and lable them so you know whck belongs where.

Get a several cans of brake clean spray to clean the new clutch cover of its protection film and to clean out the bell housing / flywheel face etc.

ECP have their own cheap stuff for about £1.50.

Get an A4 piece of paper and in big letters write OIL on it, then stick it to the steering wheel, once the car is jacked up , as  in your rush to test out the new clutch, you do not forget to fill the gearbox with oil ! as I nearly did !!

pictures not of a corrolla , just to show the areas I mean

 

 

 

 

[cgladwell]

Thanks for the extra info, really appreciate it. Just to confirm, you placed your axle stands on the sill jacking points ?

[oldcodger]

1 hour ago, cgladwell said:

Thanks for the extra info, really appreciate it. Just to confirm, you placed your axle stands on the sill jacking points ?

The video and pic below should make things clear.

Lift the front of the car up with a trolly jack and place the axle stands  and lower the trolley jack so the stands locat properly and  take the full weight.

Would seem you do not have your cars  Toyotas Owners Handbook which details this or a manual like the Haynes book ?

Just that for someone looking to do such a big diy job as a clutch change and has to ask such a question does make me wonder how you will fair with all the other work involved ...?  Its not rocket science but some mechanical knowledge is preferable.

I also used a sissor jack and block of wood as an additional safety under the engine when removing the engine mounts, though the weight was taken by the red beam, and used a trolley jack in conjunction with the beams chains** to lower and rise the gearbox in and out.

** extra lengths of strong chain needed

Somewhere in this forum another younger member stated he had changed his clutch using a workshops lift and it took him 20hrs, though I took my time and it took me 22 hours over 3 days, still as the title says , I am old   - made the councils mot guy laugh when I talked about it, they do it in 3 or 4 hours, but like anything the first time you do it is a learning curve, so be prepared .

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJlySvZ47GQ

 

 

[cgladwell]

Thanks for the info, sorry if I might come across a bit dumb, but I'm a bit ocd for detail. Funnily enough, at present I fully maintain 4 cars, including a Land Rover Discovery TD5 which I have rebuilt from the chassis up. I used to restore old cars as my hobby over the years, mainly old Rovers (P5B's and P6's) and also Jaguar XJ's.

I just like to gather as much info as possible from somebody who has already gone through the pains of doing the job, to hopefully make it easier for me or to at least highlight any pitfalls. As you know, you can use most of the knowledge accumulated over the years but things are always different on a different manufacturers car etc.

I really appreciate your help and hopefully I haven't come over as being rude in my reply as it was not my intention.

Thanks

Craig

[oldcodger]

No problem, appreciate your candour, certainly not rude in any way.

It was more that I did not want to draw anyone into attempting such a big job if they did not have the general experience for such work, which clearly you have lots more experience than me .

Don't think there is any more info I can add to whats already been mentioned, but will try and help if you get stuck on anything.

Think as said, its just a case of methodical work with plenty of tea breaks !

 

Good Luck

 

[cgladwell]

No I totally understand where you are coming from but I do really appreciate your time on this. I'm hoping to tackle the job over easter, if not before depending on work etc. I also have front and rear discs/pads to change as they are a little scored. As the car is for the other half I like to make sure everything is done before she starts using it, it's just the way I am

 

Once again many thanks for all the info you've given me and I'll update this once I'm on/completed the job.

[cgladwell]

Right, update time, changed out the clutch on Sunday. All went well, I followed oldcodgers excellent guide and removed the driveshafts by undoing the ball joints nuts/bolt. As I've got tall drive on ramps I actually refitted the nuts/bolts to both ball joints after removing the shafts and replaced the wheels so the car sat up on the ramps. I found that this, for me, made it safer. My thanks to oldcodger, really appreciate your comments/suggestions . Oh and to finish the day off I replaced all the brake disc's, pads and guide pins etc, so thats another job done 

[oldcodger]

Good the hear it all went well .

You  said " to finish off the day..;"  did you literally do it in a day ?  I know its a 4hr + job for the trade but diy ....?

[cgladwell]

Thanks, well I did start at 6am and packed up at 6pm so a 12h day on the tools. I must admit I actually enjoyed it, sad I know. To be honest, I changed the front brakes whilst I had the wheels off to refit the driveshafts, saved doubling up on time. Took it for a test drive last night and all was well, 4 new tyres to be fitted this Friday and then the other half can drive it

[cgladwell]

But lets not forget, if it wasn't for all the info you gave me it would have taken longer. So, I thank you Sir

[roks]

I think I am going to go through this myself (dont trust the mechs)...after getting quotes from £355 all the way to £870 from Mr.T.

I am 90% confident of doing the job provided all the nuts and bolts dont give me grief. I dont have a hoist for the engine so i will adapting my hydrolic jack to catch the gearbox, scissor jack with plank of wood to support engine.

My biggest worry is that I am going to be doing this on the road, resident parking bay in front of house. I guess I can move parts inside for safe keeping overnight....if I dont finish it in the day.

What other critical parts can I replace that are reletively cheap?

[oldcodger]

Don't think I would like to change a clutch on the roadside, you need good access to both sides and front.

Getting the gearbox down and up again just on a jack would be very difficult unless there is two strong guys; thats  where the chain and winder of that red beam really helped, the hyd jack pushed up, the chain held it there and allows you to swing the gearbox into the clutch/flywheel.

Have you tried the Mr.Clutch autocentres, they quoted me £300 about 15 months ago.

Quote

What other critical parts can I replace that are reletively cheap?

You should always renew the clutch as a complete kit , plate ,cover and bearing.  Sometimes the flywheel may be scored etc, my local MrClutch said they had a skimmer for just a few pounds more, if needed.

They said they could replace the flywheel and gearbox oil seals if needed, but again not a roadside job I would like to do.

 

If you have not got the time , tools and dry covered space to do all of that, personally would not attempt it  - can you rent some covered space for a weekend or so ?

As Cgladwell said, it took him 12 hours and he sounds a seasoned regular diy car mechanic will all the tools etc.

It took me about 22 hours, though I work slow and it was the first time I had a transverse gearbox out, expect I could reduce that time, now I know exactly what  to do; but still a very big job.

[mickburkesnr]

Just to give my 2 pence worth on this: I haven't tried this, but I think it's something that I will be doing. However at the moment the biggest job I've done is the one I'm doing now: changing the timing belt - which then led to removal of an alternator because the bolt broke off, water pump needs replacing etc.

The belt/alternator has taken 2 weeks because I'm snatching at time during the evenings, then realising I don't have a part or a proper tool which I then order, and having a girlfriend moan at me that I'm not painting the ceiling. As oldcodger said and Clgadwell has eluded to, you need to have a lot of time to do the job, enough space, as easy as a YouTube video or Haynes manual make it you will stumble in to a brick wall at some point. Mine was a stupidly tight corroded alternator bolt, which required Plus Gas (instead of WD40), bolt removal tools, a crowbar, lump hammer, and 3x 2 hour sessions during the hot evenings last week to break it off.

Also my situation is different because I own another car so the fact my Corolla is off the road isn't affecting me. But if this is your daily driver, unforseen issues with tight bolts and mistakes made by previous mechanics will prolong your time doing the job.

[roks]

Thanks guys, that 10% of missing confident was because I didn't have a dry place. Next best is a drive way but that's slopping down so I don't feel confident working on slope. I will have an extra pair hands to assist me, I will think long and hard about this.

I'll try Mr. Clutch, there's not one near me if not I'll have to fork out £355

I can't buy another car as I cant afford it at the mo otherwise I would part x it, and who's to that new 2nd hand car wont need work doing to it after I get it.

[oldcodger]

What about one of these type of places with tools and/or  ramp included ..for £50/£80 a day?

With a pair of helping hands you should do it in a very full day.

http://www.pitstartgarage.com/self_service.html

That should save having to buy any extra tools, but when you add the price of a decent clutch kit  and there garage costs you are well over half way to having it all done by a garage for you.

[roks]

Thats a thought, for the cost of the engine beam I can rent the garage, not too far from where I was planning to do the job. There is also a GSF store on the way where I can pickup the LUK clutch from £65, could have got it for 50 but the code expired on sunday.

I printed off the workshop manual section for the clutch, it says hoist the engine by the hooks, I have those attached already. I guess the garage will have those tall support bars and an hydrolic support for the gearbox? Will need to check this out.

 

[mickburkesnr]

4 minutes ago, roks said:

Thats a thought, for the cost of the engine beam I can rent the garage, not too far from where I was planning to do the job. There is also a GSF store on the way where I can pickup the LUK clutch from £65, could have got it for 50 but the code expired on sunday.

I printed off the workshop manual section for the clutch, it says hoist the engine by the hooks, I have those attached already. I guess the garage will have those tall support bars and an hydrolic support for the gearbox? Will need to check this out.

 

Have you signed up to their newsletter? You get 30% off your next order. You could also try Euro Car Parts, there's usually one of them near a GSF.

[roks]

Hi Mick, yes, £65 is after the 30% off, missed the 45% on sunday while I was dithering.

Oldcodger - Just called them, £96 for the full day 8am-8pm. Here's the catch, bring your own tools, they only give you basic tools, no torque wrench (but I doubt the lady knew what a torque wrench was), I asked about the engine support and gearbox hoist, she sounded confused.

I will visit the place today after work and see what they have as there are some bad reviews on google about not having tools

 

[roks]

Oldcodger,

Did you replace the snap rings at the ends of the drive shafts, hub nuts, any seals etc... or just reuse the?

Cheers.

[oldcodger]

25 minutes ago, roks said:

Oldcodger,

Did you replace the snap rings at the ends of the drive shafts, hub nuts, any seals etc... or just reuse the?

Cheers.

Hi,

No, did not replace the snap rings on the driveshafts, seemed ok, what I did find was that levering out the driveshafts from the tranaxle did not work, or was nervous about what  I was levering against, instead I used a piece of wood , from the other (axle)  side, and gave that a sharp tap with a lump hammer and it came out readily.

No signs of any leakages once the gearbox out, so did not replace any seals.

The hub  nuts, they have a 'tab' built in to them and its not the easiest thing to straighten up; which you must otherwise you could damage the shafts thread.

Found I needed a 3/4ft lenght of scaffold tube on the end of the socket bar to release the hub nuts.

If I was doing it again, think I might get a hub nut as a spare, just in case,  though think they are about £17 from Mr.T

Other than the  'lifting' gear and one of those plastic clutch plate centering tools  just normal spanners ; however the clutch slave cylinder bolts and bracket bolts are very difficult to get at /bad angle, so do a dry run on it before you do the job proper; it may seem like the plunger/piston is going to drop out but it never did.

The only other tools I would have used, if  I then had some, was some ratchet ring spanners, 14mm and 17mm is IF I  remember correctly, to make undoing the engine mount bolts easier.

Oh, and 2 multiled torches, invaluable, 2 so if you drop and bust one or the batteries run out ;    and several cans of brake cleaner spray to clean out the bell housing etc; ECP did me some for as little as a £1 or so a can.