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Posted

Hi,

Simple question but cannot find an answer in any manuals.

The brake calipers have two slider pins, one plain and one with a rubber on its end.

Which position on the caliper mounting bracket should the plain one go, the top or bottom hole ?

Posted

Everything I have read in the past said the pin with the rubber bush goes to the top, plain to the bottom.

A quick look at the parts catalogue would seem to back that up...

473275.png

Posted

Well seems like a very mixed bag of views out there, some sites say rubber at the bottom.

Ironically the Haynes Corolla manual says the rubber covered pin must go in the correct hole but it does not say which one it is !

The catch with that parts diagram it does not specifically show the assembly built up and on car; more likely drawn as such for clarity of the individual items ?

Have made further enqiries today from the my BrakeParts suppliers and the Car Mechanics magazine Help Desk, trade experienced staff , and they both state the same; that the solid pin goes on the leading edge of the calipers and the rubbered pin on the trailing edge, at its the leading edge that takes more of the force.

So as my pic shows, on the my 2006 corolla the solid pin goes on the top, but for other cars where the caliper is mounted in a different location then that could be different.

I did get mine mixed up when fitting the new pads and experienced strange wear on them, corrected when I fitted the pins, as told above, shown below.

post-95973-0-03558700-1440535456_thumb.j

Posted

Yes, I noticed a slight friction on the bottom slider pins on my 2004 corolla too, it still moves but little stiffer than the top (leading).

Is that normal or has the rubber swollen up?

Posted

The rubber is intended as a damper, so will have a more sticky feel compared to the solid pin.

All those pins are a regular point for siezing if not regularly checked, cleaned and lightly lubricated with red grease or silicone grease


  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hi OldCodger,

I have successfully replaced the rear discs on my car this weekend.

No issues really, other than a knocking noise from the front wheels (didnt touch them), as if the pads were nocking about. When I drove the car 2nd time couple of hours later, its wasnt there any more.

I did struggle with the carrier bolts a little, they took some force to break lose. Haynes says those bolts are 47Nm, it felt more like 100Nm, they werent rusted or anything inside. So I set it to 47Nm but didnt feel like its not tight enough, so bumped it to 50Nm just to be on the safe side.

I wanted to ask about the slider pins, so the top one moves very easily and it does back in by itself. Bottom one moves freesly, slight friction (I assumr due to the rubber inside) but does not pull itself back in. Is that normal?

The pad were wearing evenly so I guess all is OK so far?

Posted

Hi OldCodger,

I have successfully replaced the rear discs on my car this weekend.

No issues really, other than a knocking noise from the front wheels (didnt touch them), as if the pads were nocking about. When I drove the car 2nd time couple of hours later, its wasnt there any more.

I did struggle with the carrier bolts a little, they took some force to break lose. Haynes says those bolts are 47Nm, it felt more like 100Nm, they werent rusted or anything inside. So I set it to 47Nm but didnt feel like its not tight enough, so bumped it to 50Nm just to be on the safe side.

I wanted to ask about the slider pins, so the top one moves very easily and it does back in by itself. Bottom one moves freesly, slight friction (I assumr due to the rubber inside) but does not pull itself back in. Is that normal?

The pad were wearing evenly so I guess all is OK so far?

Yes, mine exactly the same as you describe in all the above and I did exactly the same as you, though getting a long torque wrench onto those carrier bolts a bit difficult, usually just do them up by hand, firmly.

I replace my front discs and left out the squeal shims which many folk say do nothing, because they were a bit buckled, but the pads rattled like a bag of spanners over the slightest bump.

Put the shims back in and a lot better but not cured, so ordered some new ones, just £6 a pair, and they actually rattle a bit more !

Wonder if its the new pads I've got, normally fit Ferodo and never had any poblems with them in 30 years, apart from one set of cheaper Pagits I fitted to the Avensis just before selling, they sqeaked; but this time I bought some Breck pads along with some other brake parts I got from the same suppliers, wonder if they are slightly different in the mounting points and causing the rattle ?

Suppose I can only find out by buying some Ferrodos at £30+ - ouch - another bite out of the pension !

Posted

My rear discs and pads are Pagid brand....no sqeals/squeak whats so ever and less brake dust.

The fronts are terrible ar creating, Not sue which brand, I think they were from Mr. T, still plenty left on the pads and discs so wont be changing any time soon.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Just took the front right slide pins out, top one has the rubber, did someone put in wrong way or is it different on the front?

I wish I had taken out pins sooner, they had very little grease, top one was rubbing and has marks on it, what ever coating it was, some had rubbed off.

Bottom one does not look like original, looks normal steel, heavy rust round the neck.

There is some light rust at the bottom of the bores.

Would the caliper pins from brakepart.co.uk be ok or better to get these from Mr.T?

Posted

The front offside pins do seem to take the worse of the weather , hence seizing etc quicker.

As I found , if the slider pins are the wrong way arond you get uneven pad wear, not just simple pad thickness but things like this pics shows.

If you see the earlier entry in this thread with photo and comments about the correct pin orientation.

4 front slider pins and rubber covers  - Brake Parts are about £31 delivered, Toyota online £46 delivered, though not yet shown on web page

Posted

I called two dealers, one said pin with rubber on top, another said he's not sure. My pads are perfectly even, I had to grease up and put everything together until the pins arrive. The squeal re-appeared after couple of miles of local driving.

I've ordered it from their eBay store, £20 delivered, I have also got their caliper kit.

Posted

It appears that the rears are opposite, rubber on the bottom, whats going in? 

Read some aussi or us website where they say it depends on the engine type.

My current setup seems to corresponds with the diagrams at toyodiy.com, fronts on top and rears on bottom.

Since my pads are wearing evenly, should I just leave it as it is?

 

Posted

It gets worse, I've taken out the passenger fronts off, this is at the bottom....ffs :angry:

Got new slide pins from brakeparts.co.uk, the pin with rubber is does not fit in the bottom, it only fits the top. Are these too think?

Any ideas guys?

I've put them both in the top, will see what happens.

 

Posted

The pins in my T sport had the plain 1 at the top of all the callipers, that's the way i replaced them.

Brakes have been working fine for the last 5-6 months.


Posted

The plane one fits on the top but the rubber one does not fit into the bottom, even with some firce itvwont go in but it fits in the top one no problem.

I am wondering if the rubber on the new pins are too think?

This is the state of the original pins, ones on the left are LH side and on the right is RH side.

20160926_223152.jpg

 

Posted

My old pins look exactly like yours so I'm not sure, I do hear a click come from the front passsmger side when braking, maybe I have them the wrong way round!!

Posted

I've put them on the top, new front calipers are in but I got other problems now, brake pedal feels spongy and takes lot of effort to stop. I hope its just air in the system and nothing else.

Is it possible to get air in with a pressure bleeder?

Cheers.

Posted

Yes it is possible to still have air trapped in the system using a pressure bleeder but the soft pedal is maybe being caused by the pads and new discs needing to bed in with each other.

Posted

Hi Tom,

Disc and pads are not new........one thing I did do was swap the pads from left to right, could be it that?

Posted
2 minutes ago, roks said:

Hi Tom,

Disc and pads are not new........one thing I did do was swap the pads from left to right, could be it that?

I thought you said in a post further up this page you fitted new rear discs? re swapping the pads around the answer is very definitely yes, they will need to re-bed in. I routinely surface my pads when I have them out using a piece of glass and varying grades of emery. Some of the modern pads - notably Pagid in my experience - have inclusions in the pad mix leading to irregular disc surface wear. When I replace I normally fit Ferodo.

Posted

Yes, that was the rear disc and pads last year.

I had to replace the front clipers as were sticking, piston had just so I replaced both along with the flexi brake lines.

Thanks, I will see how it settles....just to make sure I got the 'spongy' bit correct, when I press the brake it sounds like a football pump?

Posted

Football? Thought your sport was more like fishing, you know bait, hook and trawling. Or should that be trolling?

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