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Replaced Rear Disc And Pads On T27 With No Issues.


Konrad C
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Today I went to my mates garage, and had the rear brakes replaced on my Mk3 Tourer 2009.

First the EPB was left in the off position and the car switched off. The pads, caliper bracket and discs were removed. then the pistons were wound back using left and right handed wind back tools, new discs and pads installed.

Now the mechanic pumps the brakes, then started the car and engaged the EPB. The park brake light came on as usual then flashed. The EBP was released, and the mechanic press the brake pedal and then press the EBP button again. The park brake light flashed again, so the mechanic switched off the engine. He switched it on and released the EPB. He pumped the brakes, then applied the EPB and it came on as normal.

No electronic resetting tools or diagnostics needed. I had my Launch diagnostic tool which can reset the EPB, but did not use it.

I had Apec brakes fitted, same as the fronts fitted a couple of weeks ago.

Hope this answers a few queries regarding changing rear brakes without affecting the EBP on early manual T27s.

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Hi Konrad I have now changed the rear pads on both my son's 2009 tourer and my own 2011 tourer with no problem or reset required.

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Just adding the link to my front brakes which have now bedded in: http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/171299-replaced-front-brakes-on-tourer-t27-18-2009/

I have noticed the good build quality of the Apec brakes, and they look better than the same brand for the Mk2. I think other brands may be similar.

They are painted black where they are visible and not a contact area. So when you look through the spokes of the alloy wheels, no rust discs. Sad the callipers are not coated. That could be an idea!

The EPB is working fine and no issues.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I checked the cars MOT history, and the parking brake efficiency cropped up as advisories a couple of times. The last advisory from last years MOT was the brake pads were all low. Should be no problems since all the pads and discs are new. Previous MOTs mentioned the condition of the discs too and brake imbalance. The car actually failed it's first MOT, due to a deep cut to the tyre down to the carcass!

Now a couple of things occurred to me. MOTs tell you a little about the car, and more about the owner(s) who did nothing about the advisories, especially regarding the condition of the brakes, granted they were not dangerous. The brakes are my biggest spend because the operation was inconsistent. All the discs were lipped and scored. They were beyond grinding and had to be replaced. 

My next MOT is a month away. There should be no problems in the brake department this time. Hopefully.

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I'm sure you'll be fine Konrad and your car will pass the MOT no bother. It's always a wee bit of a nail biter while it goes through, specially when you've checked it yourself and wonder if you missed anything stupid. I had a VW in once, did a bit of work to it and thought I'd checked everything OK but it failed because he said one of the drivers seat belt edges was frayed. It was, actually, very slightly frayed so I took a cigarette lighter to it and singed all the little worn bits off and when I took it back it passed no problem. 

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