Outer CV Joint - Is it removeable?

[roks]

Hi All,

Anyone know if its possivle to remove the outer cv joints or are they permanently pressed/welded on?

I've tried different hammers, it wont budge. Spoken to Mr. T, they say the outer joint comes with the shaft attached, asked if its possible to remove, they dont know.

I've ordered a cv joint puller, but now thinking will it do the job and I doubt re-filling it with fresh grease will improve the clicking noise.

Any suggestions will be appreciated.

[oldcodger]

Looking in that service manual  I showed earlier they do not show the outer CV joint replacement at all ?

Just looked in the Haynes manual and it states " if the outer cv joint is worn it must be replaced with the driveshaft - its only sold with the driveshaft"

As all the motor factors sell Outer CV joints then they must be user replaceable or surely would have read about such problems.

Think  this link will help, looks like its a case of a snap ring again holding the joint in place.

http://www.ae101ownersclub.com/t27p120-corolla-beams-conversion    page 5

[roks]

Hi Oldcodger,

Thanks for the link, perhaps my 1kg hammer/or my techniques weren't up to he job. Will find out soon, puller should arrive tomorrow, I hope it works.

I also hope that I got the right one, there are 2 versions 23 and 24 teeth splines, both showed up under my reg, ones I got has 23.

 

[oldcodger]

Think its a  sudden sharp knock is whats needed to 'snap' the  ring/shaft out, pressure alone will not do it and may damage things, depending what you are gripping against; expect you need a strong vice to hold the driveshaft with or the force will be lost.

Not sure what kind of puller would remove the outer cv joint from the driveshaft - can you post a pic or link, would be interesting to know how its done ..

 

2 hours ago, roks said:

I also hope that I got the right one, there are 2 versions 23 and 24 teeth splines, both showed up under my reg, ones I got has 23.

Not sure what you are saying there  - that the existing on car CV joint has 23 teeth, or that the ones you have ordered have 23 teeth  ??

If the latter, then in the Clutch post last night / Blueprint specs,  you were looking at 24 teeth because yours is a Japan built car  JT  ?  ( blueprint being one of the best names for aftermarket toyota parts )

[roks]

Pic

[roks]

Well I am gutted now.....even with this tool it wont budge...my impact driver was smoking as it probably reached its max torque.

[oldcodger]

Its not a joint I have cracked, but everything I have read about them indicates that a  sharp shock is needed, not just pressure.

If you see this video at 3 mins in, a few good belts with a heavy hammer should do it, provided you have a good strong vice and bench to hold the shaft secure and do not hit /damage the shaft /splines

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASNABlCyq2Q

Alternatively, do you have a local garage/workshop nearby you can ask for the use of their vice/bench for a minute , or  for them to knock it off for you .

Normally its best not to hammer things, but sometimes a bit of brute strength is needed; even Ed China in Wheeler Dealers uses a lump hammer to crack apart old suspension joints.

 

[roks]

I am going to take it to a garage and see if they have vice and hammer the hell out of it.

[Bempa]

They were not designed for removing, but you can remove it. With an angle grinder, just cut of the outer housing and the ring. When you have the inner ring left you cut a trace in it deep enough to crack it with a hammer and chisel. Then you can slide it of

[roks]

So will it have grooves for the snap ring or if not then how will the new one fit in there, hammer it back in by force?

Thanks

[Bempa]

Yes there is a groove for a snap ring in there, but as it come out of factory the snap ring is to big to let it be hammered out. (you can actually hammer it it ou with great force, one of my work mates managed to do that but he had to hit it so hard he actually broke of the wise from the bench) the new aftermarket cv-joint you tap back on to the shaft over the snap ring. All this is based on experience from a camry driveshaft, but it should be the same on a corolla

[roks]

OK Bempa thanks.

I tried couple of garages, they dont want to help.

Its either going to be angle grinder or repack with fresh grease and hope for the best.

I go for the angle grinder, do I need to save the snap ring or use the new one that came with joint?

 

[oldcodger]

Any joy ......?

[roks]

Went to scrapyard but came back empty hand (actually I got the rear mount nut I lost)as those were in worst condition than mine.

I got a angle grinder, will start cutting, will keep you guys posted.

[oldcodger]

Be very careful, they are nasty tools, easy to maim yourself with them.

The smaller 41/2" / 115mm type are easier to control and the kickback less powerful, though still a danger.

Make sure you have at least eye goggles and thick gloves on and connect the power via a RCD breaker in case you cut the power cord etc.

Would think a diamond tipped blade with be a lot better than those standard discs; not that expensive about £6 for a 115mm - screwfix

[roks]

Thanks for the tips Oldcodger, unfortunately I didn't see it until now, otherwise the diamond tipped disc would have bought. I used the ones that came with the black and decker. It was like 2 hours cutting and hammering on each joint. I then realised I should change the disc as it cuts faster while the coating is there, but on the last leg.

I misjudged the depth on one of the shafts and grinded of part of a teeth, see pic, hope its not catastrophic. also I could see the affect of all the hammering on the tip on left, it flared up where the snap ring was pushing looks shorter.

Anyways its done, its got 24 teeth, I picked up 2 from GSF for £65.xx, these are made by GSP, ones from Amazon were 23 they are going back along with tools.

[oldcodger]

See what you mean about the tip flaring up, think you will need to file/grind those down or doubt it will slide into the new joint.

Looks like Bempa was right about the factory fit snap rings being bigger  / not designed for removal  ; that kind of agrees with the Haynes manual saying the outer is only available with the shaft fitted;  still there is a lot of  the joints only being advertised /sold ...  wonder why its removal is not a problem we have heard of before ...?

Sounds like the snap rings that come with the new joints are that bit easier to fit /come off ..?

Back on the road tomorrow then ... 

[roks]

I could have been on the road but mr.T let me down, the snap rings for the inner joints did not arrive, hopefully Monday.

In the mean time I am wondering if I should buy new boot kit for the inner. They look in good condition but bit softer than the outer and since I am going to repack them with new grease...maybe not, it will probably delay me another day before trying my new clutch.

Although I told Mr. T about the two coloured grease they say its same for both inner and outer, it is "LM grease". Could not tell me what LM stands for. I assume its lithium moly.

[oldcodger]

Looks like most cv joint kits came with a new snap ring ?  - would have thought Toyotas snap ring would be like the original ones, that bit oversized and difficult to remove ??

LM = Lithium Moly  - but you can buy tubs of CV Grease by Comma etc from Halfords etc for around £6, some place even sell the sachets.

Thing to do is not to overfill the joint otherwise it will just 'blow' out of the seals- hence the sachets of grease with the kits  - save the sachet from the new kits so you have a measure for the inboard ones.

[roks]

2 hours ago, oldcodger said:

Looks like most cv joint kits came with a new snap ring ?

I meant for the inner joint, the transmission end, they look deformed so I ordered 2 from Mr.T.

2 hours ago, oldcodger said:

LM = Lithium Moly  - but you can buy tubs of CV Grease

I have the Comma CV grease as well as the TripleQX MolyGrease both says Lithium based and both are NLGI2 grade.  I'll use the Comma.

2 hours ago, oldcodger said:

save the sachet from the new kits so you have a measure for the inboard ones.

For the new outer joints I will use the snap ring and grease that was supplied with it, each sachets got 90grams.

I'll use the same quantity when I re-pack the inner joints.

[roks]

All done ready to go in tomorrow after work.

Advice to anyone who wants to do this is to cut off the old joints and not even think about hammering, it just wont budge. Thanks to Bempa for high lighting that.

I flared the end of the spline by hammering thinking its going to come out. I had to tap it gently to get rid of tge ridges and when insert the new joint it took a lot more hammering than the one I didnt touch.

Another thing I noticed was the passenger side inner joint (one tgat did not split during removal) bearing was loose in the cup, when I removed the boot it came of the shaft, the snap ring was in there too. Either it wasn't put on properly or somehow it came off.

Thanks for you tips guys, all much appreciated.

Let's hope everything goes smoothly tomorrow and all works ok.

[Bempa]

Hey

I see you solved it! Great work  I would´nt worry to much about the scoring in the splines. 

Thumbs up to you 

[roks]

Thanks fella, just waiting for the snap rings for the transmission end, waiting for post man to arrive.

Hopefully that will be it and no surprises.

[roks]

The snap rings arrived yesterday, they looked exactly same, the old ones could have been reused, they are not perfectly round so I thought they were deformed but actually they are shaped like that. wasted 4 days and £7.54....

Anyways, used the new ones, driveshafts back in after a few gentle wiggles it click in, car back on the road.

 

 

 

 

[roks]

Missed some info as I didnt have this haynes with me at the time. I didnt know about setting the length of the driveshaft before tightening the cv clamp....hopefully all ok as car drives fine.

Also was a but short on the amount of grease in the Inner joint, I measured 110g in a food bag and most of it went in little waste so. The outer joint was ok 90g came with the new cv joint.

Hope this is of help to someone.