Noise coming from wheel every rotation

[pw96]

When driving to work this morning I noticed a noise coming from one of the wheels. It makes a short friction sound every time the wheel makes a rotation. I got out of the car to inspect and could see smoke coming from behind the wheel (it also smelt really bad). When I was driving home the car started beeping randomly but I did not notice any warning lights.

I removed the wheel when I came home and inspected the brakes but I don't know what I am looking for. I rotated the wheel when the car was jacked up and it makes the same noise. Could it be some sort of bearing or something? Where would the smoke be coming from? Thanks

[SanaYusuf]

37 minutes ago, pw96 said:

When driving to work this morning I noticed a noise coming from one of the wheels. It makes a short friction sound every time the wheel makes a rotation. I got out of the car to inspect and could see smoke coming from behind the wheel (it also smelt really bad). When I was driving home the car started beeping randomly but I did not notice any warning lights.

I removed the wheel when I came home and inspected the brakes but I don't know what I am looking for. I rotated the wheel when the car was jacked up and it makes the same noise. Could it be some sort of bearing or something? Where would the smoke be coming from? Thanks

Could be pads worn down to metal or a warped disc.

I'd suggest if you don't know what your looking for to take it to a mechanic for a expert opinion.

[pw96]

39 minutes ago, SanaYusuf said:

Could be pads worn down to metal or a warped disc.

I'd suggest if you don't know what your looking for to take it to a mechanic for a expert opinion.

Pads still have some life left

[SanaYusuf]

1 hour ago, pw96 said:

Pads still have some life left

Calliper seized? Slider pins need freeing, regressing.

[oldcodger]

5 hours ago, pw96 said:

Pads still have some life left

How much on each pad ?  depth viewed in place can be deceptive.

Some brake pads are fitted with a wear finger, so when the pad is low the metal finger makes contact with the disc and makes a warning squeal , though never heard one myself.

It could be that those metal parts contacting  and the heat generated could make  some rubber pad backing start to smell.

Do not know what the "bleeping " sound was ??   is your model supposed to have pad wear sensors  reporting back to the dash ; possibly the bulb for that indicator is out ?  if fitted, it should light up with all the others when you first turn the ignition on.

You never mention how easy or hard it was to turn the wheel when jacked up, you should hear a little bit of pad drag but still free enough to easily move around, evenly,   with one hand.

[alan333]

The piston which pushes the pads out can be prone to corrosion.  As the pads wear, the piston 'settles' further out.  When/if the piston gets out to a distance which corresponds to a rusty spot on it, then it can 'stick'.  This can cause the brakes to partially jam on, thus heating up that particular disc.  Also, if the brake is rubbing at a single point on each rotation, it would suggest the disc is warped.  Overheated brakes can cause warping.

First thing I'd do is get the brakes properly checked out and take it from there.

[KenMavor]

Front or rear wheel?

Certainly sounds brake orientated as others have said.  Calipers, sliding pins, pads and discs all need checked......your visible pad could be fine but the pad behind the disc could have nothing left.  Get into Kwik Fit, or similar and get a brake check done pronto.

Rear wheel could be brake shoe, for handbrake, sticking on.  Will all need freed up and everything sorted.

Get both sides done even if only one is causing problems.

[pw96]

Maybe this will fix the problem... 

Thanks for all the suggestions. Going to replace discs and pads as they are all pretty worn, I will try to remove as much rust from the caliper as I can and grease the slider pins. Never replaced brakes before but I want to learn so here goes. 

[SanaYusuf]

51 minutes ago, pw96 said:

Maybe this will fix the problem... 

Thanks for all the suggestions. Going to replace discs and pads as they are all pretty worn, I will try to remove as much rust from the caliper as I can and grease the slider pins. Never replaced brakes before but I want to learn so here goes. 

M-Tec?

[oldcodger]

Well there are many tips for doing brakes, looking in the forums tutorials etc will give you some help.

My main ones would be, make definite note of the location of the slider pins, one is fitted with a rubber end, one is not.

Get some rubber safe Red Grease for the slider pins, some car part shops sell small sachets or you can get small amounts on eBay - you only need a little

Before fitting the new disc really clean the face of the hub otherwise any rust could make the disc run enevenly; give the hub face a thin layer of coper grease .

Get some cans of brake cleaner not only to remove the oil /coating from the new disc but to clean the rest of the parts, ECP sell their own stuff very cheap.

[pw96]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I have replaced the discs and pads but as I expected the problem still exists.

Although I am now confident that the problem is with the caliper as the piston seems to be sticking. The car will be going to a mechanic.

 

On 2/7/2017 at 7:47 PM, SanaYusuf said:

M-Tec?

 Yes, slotted mtec discs all around. They seem like a great company, the discs arrived fast and they have great customer service.

[oldcodger]

A couple of points you have not clearly explained.

Have you removed , cleaned and lubricated the caliper Slider Pins ?

You say the  piston is sticking ?  how have you established that ?

The Piston cannot normally be pushed in  with just hand pressure, unless you are very strong, you often need a screw clamp to push it back.

Can you hear or even see things catching and making the squeal as you turn the new disc /hub around by hand ?

Did you carefully clean any excess rust off the face of the piston.

Were there any shims between the piston and the pads.

What were the state of the old  pads like, on the suspect caliper, even wear or not   and then compared to the other caliper pads

If you are going to have new pistons fitted or complete new calipers, they must be done in pairs like the discs and pads.

 

[pw96]

21 hours ago, oldcodger said:

A couple of points you have not clearly explained.

Have you removed , cleaned and lubricated the caliper Slider Pins ?

You say the  piston is sticking ?  how have you established that ?

The Piston cannot normally be pushed in  with just hand pressure, unless you are very strong, you often need a screw clamp to push it back.

Can you hear or even see things catching and making the squeal as you turn the new disc /hub around by hand ?

Did you carefully clean any excess rust off the face of the piston.

Were there any shims between the piston and the pads.

What were the state of the old  pads like, on the suspect caliper, even wear or not   and then compared to the other caliper pads

If you are going to have new pistons fitted or complete new calipers, they must be done in pairs like the discs and pads.

 

Slider pins were removed and lubricated with silicone grease, they are in good condition. Some of the pins were stiff so I have mentioned this to the mechanic.

I pushed the piston back with the clamp and the hub turns fine, however when the brakes are applied the piston pushes on the pads and doesn't seem to retract again. The wheel is very hard to turn by hand. I drove the car a short distance and the brakes were noticeably hot compared to the other side. Hopefully I did not damage the new pads and rotor but I had to drive to the garage.

I cleaned around the rubber boot of the piston, I maybe should have spent more time cleaning as there was a lot of rust on the caliper. I did not see any shims.

I forgot to compare the old pads which was pretty stupid of me. Will update on Monday when I get the mechanics opinion.

[oldcodger]

Sounds like you have covered all the points then, though worth asking as new calipers are not cheap.

About £140 each from the big motor factors, though you might find these remanufactured ones at £50 suitable,  or if your mechanic is willing, or able to if the caliper bore is sound,  to fit new pistons and seals,  which this place also supplies.

https://brakeparts.co.uk/#!/shop/TOYOTA/COROLLA/02-07/COROLLA ZE123 1.8 T-SPORT/Front - Brake Calipers and Wheel cylinders

[pw96]

On 2/18/2017 at 8:20 PM, oldcodger said:

Sounds like you have covered all the points then, though worth asking as new calipers are not cheap.

About £140 each from the big motor factors, though you might find these remanufactured ones at £50 suitable,  or if your mechanic is willing, or able to if the caliper bore is sound,  to fit new pistons and seals,  which this place also supplies.

https://brakeparts.co.uk/#!/shop/TOYOTA/COROLLA/02-07/COROLLA ZE123 1.8 T-SPORT/Front - Brake Calipers and Wheel cylinders

So the mechanic has confirmed that the caliper is at fault. He also noticed the front wheels did not want to move when the car was on the lift. He is going to service all the calipers.

I have bought the service kit from the same place that you have linked. The kit just includes new seals, I did not buy new pistons as he does not think they will be needed.

Hopefully he can free up the calipers or I will have wasted money on these seals which cost £45 for all 4 sets. Maybe I should have went to the mechanic in the first place and the car would be fixed by now.. at least I have learnt a lot about brakes.

[RazzerRazor]

If you don't try buddy you'll never know. Mine were all rusted on. Nightmare for my mechanic! 

Hope it all gets sorted and doesn't cost to much in the end. 

[pw96]

So I have got the car back now and the sticking has been fixed. The mechanic was able to free up all the calipers and fitted the new seals I got. Hopefully they don't seize up again, rust is a !Removed!

He only charged me £40 which is nothing compared to getting new calipers.