I recently installed a Nextbase 622GW front and rear camera system in my Toyota C-HR Design (2021 petrol hybrid model, right hand drive, UK model) powered via permanently live fuse. I wasn't able to find a fully detailed guide online so had to work some of it out myself, so I'm writing this guide to help anyone else who wants to fit this.
I assume you have the front and rear dash cameras and a hard-wiring kit from Nextbase.
The reason to have the dashcam permanently live is to take advantage of the Nextbase 622GW's "g-force" trigger feature, which switches on recording if the camera detects motion whilst parked - good for filming hit and runs. This is a software feature that needs enabled manually - see the Nextbase documentation for more info.
The official Toyota dashcam installation guide (found in the same tutorial section as this guide) suggests routing the cables differently, but these assume the dashcam is powered via the cigarette lighter. I am powering the dashcam via the fuse box so I route the cable differently. I also route the cables mostly via the rubber seals at the doors, which may look a bit untidy to some - do whatever you feel is best. The cable on the Nextbase cameras is plenty long enough for most cable routes.
Start out by routing the power and rear camera cable between the two black enclosures attached to the top of the middle of the windscreen, tucking the cables behind the trim above the windscreen, going towards the left.
Route the cables along to the A pillar and tuck between the ceiling trim and airbag. The cables only sit at the very top of the airbag holder so shouldn't block its operation at all, but be careful not to push too much cable under that area.
At the side door, start by routing the rear cable following the green route. Stuff the cable under the rubber trim on the inside of the door. Stuff the other (power, shown in red) cable down the door in the other direction, also using the rubber seal.
Continue routing along the door under the rubber seal.
At the B pillar, route the cable slightly under the trim along to the rear door's rubber seal.
Route the cable along the rubber seal of the rear door.
Leave the rubber seal and route along the trim at the rear.
Route along to the trim on the rear windscreen.
At this point remove the 3 clips holding the rear trim panel to the roof using a small tool, and the trim panel on the boot door. This is shown in this video at the 3:30 mark. Don't force either the clips or the trim - they should come loose without much force if you apply it in the right places.
You can then stuff the cable under this trim panel along to the rubber grommet connecting to the boot door. There should still be a lot of cable left at this point, but keep stuffing it all through. Getting the cable through the grommet is the hardest part of this job. Start by reaching your hand between the trim and the roof and squeeze the clips on the plastic retainer holding the rubber grommet on. There should be 4 little clips that can be squeezed to allow the retainer to come loose out the top side. Don't force this - you should not need so much force that you break the plastic clips! When it's loose, you'll be able to pull the rubber grommet off the plastic retainer. Remove the other end of the rubber grommet too - but it doesn't have a plastic retainer. At this point stuff the cable first through the retainer then through the grommet. Since it's rubber it's hard work to get the cable through. Make sure you stuff it through on the side facing you, as there should be an opening at the other side of the grommet on that side you can use to get the other side out. I found that I could push the connector along the grommet just pushing hard on the attached cable - no tool required - but you might want to pull it through instead using string (that you first stuff through from the other side). Or perhaps you could grease the connector slightly as long as you're confident the grease won't react with the rubber. The important thing is not to break the rubber, which acts as a rain seal.
Once you've got the cable through the grommet, re-attach the grommet to the plastic retainer and push it back into the bodywork on both sides. With the trim panel removed on the boot door (not shown in the photo below) you can easily route the cable along to whichever area of the window you want to place the camera.
I placed the camera on the driver side so that it wouldn't block my rear mirror view.
Reattach the trim piece - it should just click into place without much force once aligned correctly.
Now back to the front, where we'll continue to route the power cable for the front dashcam down the rubber seal.
At the bottom of the passenger door, bring the cable inside via the trim.
Remove the panel at the top of the passenger footwell - there are 3 clips to undo and it should easily come off. At this point there will be a lot of cable left both from the power and the rear cables - use cable ties to collect these together neatly. Now you need to attach the grounding fork terminal. The most convenient grounding point I found was the screw that holds a piece of trim near the foot step of the door. This is covered with a plastic moulded nut - remove it to expose the screw and slot the fork terminal onto the screw. Unfortunately the hard-wire kit from Nextbase has quite a short grounding fork terminal such that it doesn't sit securely with the plastic moulded nut re-attached over the screw. You could remove this fork terminal and attach your own - I would recommend an M6 ring terminal with a long "arm" on it such that the cable sheath doesn't stop the plastic nut from being reattached on top. I left the factory fork terminal on the cable and instead put two M6 nuts onto the screw, sandwiching the fork terminal between the two. There was not enough of the screw left to re-attach the plastic moulded nut. Retain the nut for if/when you remove the dashcam kit and/or sell the car (I stored it with the vehicle V5C so I don't forget).
Finally, attach the fuse connector to the fuse box. You will have to remove the fuse box cover using the clip. The cover will not go back on again once the fuse connector is installed so retain it in a safe place for when you sell the car (same place as the plastic nut, perhaps!).
As I wanted the dashcam to be permanently live, I found a fuse socket that is always powered. I was lucky that the first one I tried worked - the lower of the two spare slots as shown below. The slot is two slots below the white 25A fuse, left of one of the yellow 20A fuses.
Finally, attach the dashcam mount and check the dashcam works. You may need to install the rear camera connector before the power connector for the rear camera to be detected.
Once you're happy it's all working, ensure you've neatly cable tied the loose cables in the footwell and re-attach the cover using the 3 push clips. You're done - enjoy the reassurance of your front and rear hard-wired cameras! And remember to keep the plastic moulded nut and fuse box cover safe - put them in a plastic resealable bag and store them with your V5C perhaps and reinstall them when you sell the car - be nice to the next owner of your car!
