My Brakes Are Ready..

[JappyBeast]

My pads need replacing.

Is it easy enough to do myself or should I get my garage to do it?

[Jimlad]

It is relatively easy mate. I've seen Rico do it a few times. You should be able to just get stuck in with no probs.

You may need a caliper wind in tool though if the piston is sticking out slightly.

[GIDDLEPIN]

Have a look how I did my fronts HERE, Yours will be similar, Not sure what the Mk2's rears are like, mine have the handbrake linked to them and as Jim says they need to be wound back in but if the pistons are reasonably free you can do this without special tools.

The one thing to watch out for is siezed sliders, these can be a pain (Ask Mo )

Les

[System~G]

Piece of pee.

I can do all 4 in under an hour now assuming bolts aren't rounded etc...

You will also want to make sure the slides are freed up and pistons move relatively easy. You will want to check all rubber seals for any perishing or breaks.

A caliper wind in tool is good to have at hand although a G-clamp can be used to push the front caliper pistons in and a pair of long-nosed pliers can turn the rear calipers in uless the piston is seized.

I did a "How-To" for the fronts in the tech section a number of years ago (http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16655&pid=579938&st=0entry579938). It's a very good guide and fine for every day motoring, but needs updating for constant hard driving as I've learned a lot more since.

I tend to change the pads on my track car every 6 months (or 6 track days). Each time removing the calipers and ensuring the slides are 100% free. If the pistons are very tight or sticking, I'll strip the whole thing down and do a full refurbishment/rebuild.

I have a few days off work next week and can pop up and do them for you on one of them if you wish? I'm only down in Leicester.

[System~G]

Not sure what the Mk2's rears are like, mine have the handbrake linked to them

Les

The handbrake is linked to them (on all 3 MK's). It's not unknown for the piston to have been wound in a little too far when changing the pads. As a result the car will stop under normal braking, but the handbrake will not be efficient to hold the car on a uphill. The piston sometimes has to then be wound out a bit to cure this.