Gearbox Oil Change.

[RupertRAV4]

Hi All, Firstly thanks for the forum, have been ready it for a while but now need to ask for your advice: I have an 54 plate D4-D needing its 40,000mile service and Mr T is recommending a gearbox oil change (manual 'box) as part of the service. Sounds pretty early for a 'box oil change to me? Has anyone been changing their oil at this interval?

Thanks in advance.

[anchorman]

Hi All, Firstly thanks for the forum, have been ready it for a while but now need to ask for your advice: I have an 54 plate D4-D needing its 40,000mile service and Mr T is recommending a gearbox oil change (manual 'box) as part of the service. Sounds pretty early for a 'box oil change to me? Has anyone been changing their oil at this interval?

Thanks in advance.

Hi Rupert and congrats on your first post.

The gearbox needs to have the oil changed at every 20k or 2 years which ever comes first. You should also change your transfer box and rear axle oil at the same time. It sounds rather frequent but it is correct.

However, it is easy to do it yourself if you don't mind crawling around underneath. I can give you more details if you want to have a go.

Regards

[bothwell_buyer]

Change it dear boy then sell the old stuff tae yer nearest Landrover owner fur fuel!!

[RupertRAV4]

Hi All, Firstly thanks for the forum, have been ready it for a while but now need to ask for your advice: I have an 54 plate D4-D needing its 40,000mile service and Mr T is recommending a gearbox oil change (manual 'box) as part of the service. Sounds pretty early for a 'box oil change to me? Has anyone been changing their oil at this interval?

Thanks in advance.

Hi Rupert and congrats on your first post.

The gearbox needs to have the oil changed at every 20k or 2 years which ever comes first. You should also change your transfer box and rear axle oil at the same time. It sounds rather frequent but it is correct.

However, it is easy to do it yourself if you don't mind crawling around underneath. I can give you more details if you want to have a go.

Regards

Thanks Anchorman, that would be great if you can send me the info on how to do all the oil changes as I'm quite happy to crawl around under the car myself if it'll save paying someone else a fortune to do it! Do I need any special tools other than a good collection of spanners etc? I have seen that you can get the proper Toyota service manual off the Toyota technical info website but it's a few hundred Euro's - is it worth it or is all the useful info available around places like this?

Thanks again.

[anchorman]

Firstly you don't need to buy the whole manual you can just go on for an hour (you actually get rather more than that as long as you stay in the same manual) for €3 - it comes to just less than £3 on your credit card.

To get about under my car I put the front on the ramps and the rear onto some wooden blocks. Do not use brick or concrete blocks as they can crumble without warning.

To do the gearbox oil you need a 24mm or 15/16" AF socket or spanner. The oil capacity is shown here;

rav4_diesel.pdf

So 3.4 litres of API GL5 75W/90

You can remove the filler plug first to let the air in;

Then drain the oil into a suitable container;

Clean all the plugs carefully. Keep them to the same place they came from as some are magnetic to attract the debris.;

I use one of these pumps to refil in some cases but you can use the bottle as most have a nozzle;

Only the !Removed! go to so much trouble!!!;

To do the transfer box approach the drain plug from the front and to get at the filler - under the drivers door;

0.9 litres of Hypoid API GL5 SAE 90 (very important to use this extreme pressure oil) goes back in;

This is a better view of the filler;

Now around to the back and drain the diff'. You need a 10mm allen key;

Add some more of the same oil as the transfer box - 0.9 litres;

Now change the engine oil and filter and check the items in the service book and you have saved over £200.

I can provede similar photos of the oil change if you like???

[RupertRAV4]

Firstly you don't need to buy the whole manual you can just go on for an hour (you actually get rather more than that as long as you stay in the same manual) for €3 - it comes to just less than £3 on your credit card.

To get about under my car I put the front on the ramps and the rear onto some wooden blocks. Do not use brick or concrete blocks as they can crumble without warning.

To do the gearbox oil you need a 24mm or 15/16" AF socket or spanner. The oil capacity is shown here;

rav4_diesel.pdf

So 3.4 litres of API GL5 75W/90

You can remove the filler plug first to let the air in;

Then drain the oil into a suitable container;

Clean all the plugs carefully. Keep them to the same place they came from as some are magnetic to attract the debris.;

I use one of these pumps to refil in some cases but you can use the bottle as most have a nozzle;

Only the !Removed! go to so much trouble!!!;

To do the transfer box approach the drain plug from the front and to get at the filler - under the drivers door;

0.9 litres of Hypoid API GL5 SAE 90 (very important to use this extreme pressure oil) goes back in;

This is a better view of the filler;

Now around to the back and drain the diff'. You need a 10mm allen key;

Add some more of the same oil as the transfer box - 0.9 litres;

Now change the engine oil and filter and check the items in the service book and you have saved over £200.

I can provede similar photos of the oil change if you like???

Wow! What a service - thanks Anchorman! No probs about the engine oil change - have done a few of those. A couple of questions though - how tight do you do all the plugs up to? Do you torque them up or is it just 'nip it up plus a bit'? Also, is there a level to set the oil to (ie, level with the bottom of the filler hole) or just use the amounts you say?

Thanks Again.

[anchorman]

In all cases you fill to the level hole but you won't be working on level ground unless you have a pit or a lift. The capacities given fill each unit to the level plug so you don't need to worry in that respect.

The torque is 36ft/lbs in old money for all the plugs as shown here for the gearbox;

Here for the transfer box

......and here for the diff';

To be honest with experience you will know how tight is sufficient but over tightening may rupture the sealing ring.

With regard to the oil change if you remove the plastic shield which has 6 bolts - 3 along the front;

.......and three up the side;

......you will find access to the filter very easy;

I don't think I can help any more than this but if you think of anything, give me a shout!

[RupertRAV4]

Anchorman - just a quick update and thanks again to you for your info. Changed the engine oil and filter, gearbox oil, transfer box and rear diff oil ok. Just need some ramps next time to make getting under the car easier!!

Just one more problem now, I seem to have the dreaded hesitation around and above 3000rpm so am suspecting that I need new SCV valves. I have changed the fuel filter during this work which has not helped and have checked that there are no air leaks with the new filter. Does this sound like the SCV issue to you? Looking through the forum some have mentioned problems with the turbo and/or the wastegate but the SCV valves seem more common. Have you ever seen a guide (ideally with piccies) as to how to change the valves at all? I see thet Parts-King is able to get them cheaper than through Mr T direct.

Thanks again!

[anchorman]

First of all well done on doing your service - I wish more would have a crack at these jobs.

I take it your problem existed before the work you did. In some cases the SCVs will throw up a fault light but not always. This is always difficult but I would try and at least get any fault codes as some may be stored without the light being on. You can buy a reader for about £30 or most decent local garages will check for a small fee;

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LATEST-HANDHELD-UNIV...id=p3286.c0.m14

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/UNIVERSAL-CAN-Bus-OB...id=p3286.c0.m14

Without any codes all you can do is make sure there is nothing obvious - no loose wires or leaky vac pipes etc and then start.

The SCV valves are easy to change. The fuel pump is on the back of the timing cover (down towards the left as you look at the engine) and there is a plug on each one and they are held in by 2 cap screws. I haven't got any photos but here is a diagram to help;

Kingo will post you the SCVs if thats the route you take. Good luck and if you do change them please photograph the whole process so we can make it a maintenance tip (If you prefer I can do that for you if you get the photos).

Cheers

[RupertRAV4]

Ok, update and a little more info. Checked vac pipes and the electrical connectors which didn't show anything wrong. Then last night driving the car the MIL came on. Got the codes checked today and there was only one present - P0627 ! Sounds familiar! I also found some info on the Toyota Tech site (tried to attach them to this reply but couldn't see how to) for checking the SCV valves electrically which specifies a resistance across the pins of 1.5 - 1.7 Ohms at 20'C. I got 1.8 Ohms on both but it was probably a little cooler than 20'C today (well, it is August in the UK!!) which sounds pretty close. I also checked that there was no continuity between the SCV pins and earth. Both these seem ok so it sounds like the SCV's haven't failed electrically? So what is it that fails with these valves? Do they wear or do some internal seals fail? What do these valves do exactly? This might give us a clue as to what to look for before changing then.

[anchorman]

It is familiar!;

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=81818

The suction control valves regulate the amount of fuel the high pressure pump delivers at different engine speeds. It is a variable restrictor that merely closes off the fuel at the suction side of the pump. If it sticks or fails to work properly it will starve the common rail of fuel and the engine will hold back like you have eased off the accelerator. They are a known weak spot on the 2.0 D4D which I think is due to wear/sticking but I have never had a chance to look at some. We do not know yet if the 2.2 D4D (which only has one SCV) suffers in a similar way. I have attached a file that shows the description of the 4.3 system to give you an idea of what happens although it is not quite the same.

I think now that you have that code that it is safe to go ahead and order the valves. Before removing the old ones use some soluble degreaser to thoroughly clean around the old ones and make sure that everything remains absolutely scrupulously clean. You don't want even the tiniest speck of dirt to enter the pump as apart from not doing that any good it could make its way to an injector. Afterwards prime the system and expect it to cough a bit more than usual while it purges the air from the pump.

Don't forget that we would very much appreciate any digi photos.

Good luck.

rav_fuel.pdf

[RupertRAV4]

Thanks Achorman - any idea why I can't download the pdf attachments from the forum, even when I'm logged in it says I 'don't have permission to use this feature' when I try to download the pdf.

Only snag is that I am going to be out of the country for a few weeks so I just hope that the car can hold it all together until I get back! Will these valves fail completely and leave my better half stranded or will the performance just drop off more and more? Will it damage anything further not sorting it right away? Thought about getting the parts direct from Mr T but then thought again and will get in touch with Kingo.

Thought these Toyotas were supposed to be reliable!

[RupertRAV4]

Just another thought - could the in-tank lift pump have anything to do with this? If this was 'failing' it would give low fuel pressure and reduced performance aswell I guess, but would it give the same P0627 fault code? The page from Toyota on the P0627 code only gives pointers towards the SCV valves but it does also mention about 'no fuel feed'. Are there any reports of this fault code being linked to the in-tank lift pump rather than the SCV valves?

[anchorman]

I don't know why you can't down load the file - it opens for me!

I don't think the tank has a pump in it. It does on the petrol but on the diesel the only lift pump is the hand primer on the filter head. The high pressure pump draws the fuel once all the air has been purged. I don't think it will get much worse while you are away and if you contact kingo he will send you the valves so you have them when you get back.

Are they reliable? Generally they are but there are some problems that don't surprise us any more.

If you pm me with your email address I will send you the file.

[RupertRAV4]

Quick update for regarding the SCV valves- just ordered them from Kingo so will hopefully get them by in time to fit them at the weekend (in the pouring rain no doubt!). Just hope they fix the problem but I think there's a good chance as I had the P0627 DTC.

I'll take plenty of photos so it can be added to the 'how to' posts.

[anchorman]

Top man

[Notebook]

Top man

Commented to bring this back to the top - might be worth a sticky?

[ormi]

toyota service sheets state gearbox oil change 40k but diffs are 20k

[anchorman]

toyota service sheets state gearbox oil change 40k but diffs are 20k

Not wishing to contradict but I think you will find it is gearbox, transfer and diff oil at 20k or 2 years for 4.2 and 4.3.

[ormi]

toyota service sheets state gearbox oil change 40k but diffs are 20k

Not wishing to contradict but I think you will find it is gearbox, transfer and diff oil at 20k or 2 years for 4.2 and 4.3.

sorry been busy but heres a pic of the service sheet....

(if you have the 2006 this service sheets for you )2002 up is the same when it comes to the gear box and diff

(also its check not change for the gear box oil)

need any more pics just call.

[anchorman]

Intresting..........

What is a black dot and what is a white dot?

Cheers

[ormi]

Intresting..........

What is a black dot and what is a white dot?

Cheers

the black dot means not applicable to the service ie diff oil blacked out at 10k but white(you tick it to say you've changed it)at 20k meaning its part of the service.

[mick1020]

Firstly you don't need to buy the whole manual you can just go on for an hour (you actually get rather more than that as long as you stay in the same manual) for €3 - it comes to just less than £3 on your credit card.

To get about under my car I put the front on the ramps and the rear onto some wooden blocks. Do not use brick or concrete blocks as they can crumble without warning.

To do the gearbox oil you need a 24mm or 15/16" AF socket or spanner. The oil capacity is shown here;

rav4_diesel.pdf

So 3.4 litres of API GL5 75W/90

You can remove the filler plug first to let the air in;

Then drain the oil into a suitable container;

Clean all the plugs carefully. Keep them to the same place they came from as some are magnetic to attract the debris.;

I use one of these pumps to refil in some cases but you can use the bottle as most have a nozzle;

Only the !Removed! go to so much trouble!!!;

To do the transfer box approach the drain plug from the front and to get at the filler - under the drivers door;

0.9 litres of Hypoid API GL5 SAE 90 (very important to use this extreme pressure oil) goes back in;

This is a better view of the filler;

Now around to the back and drain the diff'. You need a 10mm allen key;

Add some more of the same oil as the transfer box - 0.9 litres;

Now change the engine oil and filter and check the items in the service book and you have saved over £200.

I can provede similar photos of the oil change if you like???

Brilliant Photos and info

Are these photos for the rav 4.2 ?

If so are the oils the same as i will put in my 4.3 d4d ?

Thanks ...

[anchorman]

Actually, 4.3s are easier to work on and the oil for the gearbox is different (75W GL5 and it is vital that only this oil is used).

Now we come to a grey area and that is when it should be changed. ORMI recently pointed out that it need only be "inspected" at 4 years or 40k. When I bought mine I foolishly listened to the salesman (who has since been sacked!) and after specifically asking, he told me it should have all transmission oil changed at every 20k or 2 years. I did that on mine and I'm not sorry as it does flush out any debris that has accumilated after the syncro's have bedded in etc. However, I can't seem to find when it should be done and I have got Toyota phoning me back so I will clarify later.

The bottom line is that it's up to you at the moment but it seems it wouldn't be done if Toyota were servicing it. I might wait another 3 years (to the 6th year but I wouldn't leave it more than the 4th year from new) depending on what they say but it is very expensive oil so I'm not throwing it away too soon! If you choose to do it you need 2.3 litres and Kingo will sell it to you in litre bottles.

Note: 75W oil bears no resemblance to engine oil in terms of thickness. It actually pours like a very low viscosity engine oil!

Gearbox drain;

The drain plug is dead easy to get at but for filling, just pop the two studs out of the wheel arch liner and the plug is directly in front of you;

According to the service data you are required to change the transfer and rear diff oil at every 2 years or 20k.

For the transfer, the drain plug is easy to get at;

........but to fill it I use the top hole and just add the right amount (0.45 litre of GL5 80W/90) as I work off ramps.

The diff is also easy to get at and it takes 0.45-0.55 litre (0.5 litre bottle is fine) of GL5 90 oil. Unfortunately I have no photos but I have attached the service data sheet. I have printed the diesel sheets out and laminated them;

rav_service_data.pdf

[mick1020]

Mines coming up to 3 1/2 years old so thats a job i will be doing , thanks for the great photos and advise again